The wiring is complete! Just waiting on the PCM to put the driver seat in then everything in the cab will be done other than installing the GM MIL and removing the Jeep MIL.
Still to do list.
1. Exhaust
2. Trans cooler
3. Trans mount
4. Cooling fan
5. Drive shaft
6 MILs
This list was over 150 at one time. Its nice to see I'm down to 6!
Was just thinking... not sure if this would be the kind of look you're going for... I think you said sleeper and this is as anti-sleeper as it gets but...
If you got rid of the chrome elbow and stuck the filter on the intake and then ran a Mustang GT500 style hood scoop that would get everything covered at least.
Thank you everyone for the praises. It has been a lot of hard work but she's getting there.
Today I was able to revisit the fuel issue. I know what I did is not the norm, however it was the cheapest way to bypass the regulator.
Instead of running a return line I am using the stock vent tube from the EVAP solenoid. I removed the canister by the fuel tank and connected the vent tube from the tank to the EVAP line. For a vent I will be using a vented gas cap. I will add a inline filter and mount it under the Jeep close to the tank.
Disassembly.
I took the sending unit completely apart and cut off the slide tube that went in to the fuel pump output shaft.
Then I cleaned it up with a Unibit.
Then I found a grommet to go around a 1/4" NTP pipe to seal the tube.
Next I made 2 washers to clamp it to a good tight seal.
Then I used a 1" long 1/4" NPT double female end to extend it flush with the tank.
Then I cut a piece of fuel line to extend it to the pump. It took a couple of try's to get the length perfect so I would have tension on the bottom of the tank when assembled.
I started to disable the Jeep MIL then I got to thinking... why don't I just put the LED for the GM PCM in the stock location? Well it worked out great.
Also I forgot to mention earlier I used the leftover fuel connecter from the Jeep regulator and the original 4.0 fuel connector for the 6.0 rails.