44s & a 3 link

ive broken 4 alloy shafts(and a couple stock) without damage to the spicer u joints. then i decided to run the yukon super joints. i greased them as directed and got about a year out of them before they wore to the point of knocking. im back on spicers lol. just make sure to run full circle clips!

I do run the full circle clips. I think i should be okay with the 760x. I trust ktm racer lol
 
The ones I have now? lol I'm the 3rd owner?

haha yup.... and theyre damn good.... they changed the way i drove, im not saying you can point and floor it, but for a technical almost full body slow crawler i quit breaking parts.... im pretty sure i did the ring gear before i swapped the bling stuff in..... what alloys are you guys buying? if its old alloy usa stuff ive seen alloy 44 shafts shear at the diff multiple times running 35's... theyre crap, this isnt a webwheeling conclusion, seen it in person, i wont buy the ten factory stuff after seeing that
 
haha yup.... and theyre damn good.... they changed the way i drove, im not saying you can point and floor it, but for a technical almost full body slow crawler i quit breaking parts.... im pretty sure i did the ring gear before i swapped the bling stuff in..... what alloys are you guys buying? if its old alloy usa stuff ive seen alloy 44 shafts shear at the diff multiple times running 35's... theyre crap, this isnt a webwheeling conclusion, seen it in person, i wont buy the ten factory stuff after seeing that

i currently run moser inners and nitro outers. havent broken any of them yet.

the moser inners have close to 5 years of wheeling on em' nitros about 2 years

i have broken: 4 stock outers, one stock inner, 2 yukon outers,2 moser outers, detroit locker, 5.38 ring and pinion. im not easy on my junk and the shafts i run now im pretty happy with
 
Put my other rims on it, 15x10 soft 8s, in an attempt to get rid of my speed wobbles(anything past 55 the wheels shimmy back and forth very slightly), with no luck, slightly better but not really. Still balanced with 8oz of airsoft BBs. I think the track bar bushing is shot. The allingments probably off too.

Shafts are in, front bilsteins are in, and so are the johnny joints (replacing ballistic fab poly bushings)

Hopefully ill get my new welding hose in this week so i can start my rear frame stiffners, shock hoops, and shackl relocation.

I also need ideas on how to reinforce my upper control arm frame side bracketry.

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I think its too weak.
 
I would weld some 10ga plate to the inner part of the unibody rail behind that UCA mount as an inner stiffener, and then run a couple gussets from that to the UCA mount.

having that UCA mount tied into the lower like that makes it pretty strong as well. I would think.
 
Nice, ill have to look into that.

Looks like this pump?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-340104/

Cant find that bracket though.

For the price i could probably do a redneck ram.

Still havent decided exactly what i want to do as far as steering goes, i dont want to lose the highway driveabilty of adding hydro assist, but i want to have enough power to turn 35s offroad.
 
I got the bracket and pulley through poly performance through pirate4x4.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-95-06-Jeep-4.0-TC-to-Pump-Adapter-Bracket-p-2100.html

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-5.6-Diameter-Serpentine-6-Rib-P-Pump-p-2117.html

Got the pump from advanced a 89 k3500 with a 454 no hydro-boost with tank it was like 50 bucks. Grabbed a junk pump at the jy for a core and got the good metal cap with a rubber skirt that seals the tank better off it. Also don't forget the tank mounting studs because the reman doesn't come with them.

The line was from a chevy blazer from the 80's
 
I got the bracket and pulley through poly performance through pirate4x4.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-95-06-Jeep-4.0-TC-to-Pump-Adapter-Bracket-p-2100.html

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-5.6-Diameter-Serpentine-6-Rib-P-Pump-p-2117.html

Got the pump from advanced a 89 k3500 with a 454 no hydro-boost with tank it was like 50 bucks. Grabbed a junk pump at the jy for a core and got the good metal cap with a rubber skirt that seals the tank better off it. Also don't forget the tank mounting studs because the reman doesn't come with them.

The line was from a chevy blazer from the 80's

how does it work offroad?
 
Made some progress today:

Hole cut in floor:

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Hoop cut to length and notched/welded:

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Welding with a friend of mine's miller 110v........i miss my 220 :(, waiting on a new hose in the mail for it:

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Right now the hoop is welded to some 3/16 plate and that is welded to the frame rail.

Im picking up some 3x3 angle iron to plate the rear section of the frame.

Tommorow im doing the same to the otherside, and running a bar across connecting both hoops at the top. Im also going to take a ride to a local steel supplier to see of they have the angle iron.
 
Gunna open up the floor opening more? Do you think the shock body will hit the sheetmetal while flexing? Just seems like when the axle twists, its gunna wanna push the body side to side more. I wanna do some hoops like this for the back of black jeep, but I feel like the hole is gunna be big. Seems like most go into the wheelwell too with some sort of round cut out for the shock bodies.
 
Oh yea, new SYE and speedo gear should be here this week, i cant stand driving this thing with a severly bent SYE.
 
Gunna open up the floor opening more? Do you think the shock body will hit the sheetmetal while flexing? Just seems like when the axle twists, its gunna wanna push the body side to side more. I wanna do some hoops like this for the back of black jeep, but I feel like the hole is gunna be big. Seems like most go into the wheelwell too with some sort of round cut out for the shock bodies.

Im not sure yet, i think i may just clearence with a BFH.
 
on the assist thing, old_man sells completely rebuilt and ported boxes for $160 shipped if you dont feel like tapping an old box. that plus a harbor freight ram, some hoses, generic cooler... in it for real cheap.
 
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