44s & a 3 link

I run 3.50 and so far so good. I've only managed to take out an inner rcv shaft. Some how the ring clip came off in the cv causing the shaft to slip out enough to snap on the groove.
 
dice it anyway you want. more leverage=more stress.

less backspacing= more stress. when you turn one way the tire doesnt pivot in its spot. one side goes forward a bit and the other side has to turn backwards
 
Ive got 4 inches of backspacing. I only need a small bend in the control arm, ive still got a decent turning radius, but i want it better.
 
upgraded studs to 1/2 in the rear, torqued to RFT, and installed with red lock tight.

installed rim stiffeners, balanced tires with bbs.

drove through some deep water, got stuck in 2wd, had to get out and lock the hubs. FML.

Clutch feels XXXXed up, oh well.

2011-08-28_17-26-57_921.jpg
 
looks good!
And for the backspacing argument, I am running 2.25" backspaced 15x10steel beadlocks with my 35" km2s and am still running my stock 100 mile plus unit bearings. I also am a teenager and drive like an ass, so it is abused some.
 
RoyalXJ said:
Its not like its a unit bearing, so it won't effect the bearings the same way. As for the balljoints there not really much to worry about there. He's probably got a 4.75 bs wheel now if he's rubbing the lca so if he runs a 1" spacer its like running a basic 3.75 bs wheel.
Click to expand...

It's two tapered roller bearings. The further out you put a tire, the more leverage it has on the bearings. It's the same effect.

I blew ball joints out on my D44 when I took out an axleshaft.

RoyalXJ said:
44s bearings run on a stationary spindle that can not move. Unit bearings are onlyattached to the outer stub which is able to move and doesn't really support the bearing as much under load.
Click to expand...

Unit bearings are in the part that bolts to the knuckle. The outer flange is PRESSED into that part. It's not going to move unless the bearings are junk.

And 90% of unit bearings are ball bearings which are junk in this application. D44 bearings are tapered roller bearings which are much stronger.
 
Jeep looks SICK dude.

Love the rim stiffeners.

Hows the power with those tires? I'm about to go 33", but I love my acceleration on 32's.
 
srmitchell said:
Jeep looks SICK dude.

Love the rim stiffeners.

Hows the power with those tires? I'm about to go 33", but I love my acceleration on 32's.
Click to expand...


Thanks you, the powers decent. But there was more with the 33s, 373s, and aluminum rims.

My wheel and tire combo weighs 104lbs lol

I wanna get some street 33s put them on aluminum wheels and drive it around town with those.
 
44 spindle with roller bearings is definitely more backspacing tolerant than a stock unit bearing, but it will obviously still wear. It's better because:
1. tapered roller bearings instead of ball bearings
2. bearings are spaced further apart on the spindle

Ideally (for bearing life, anyways) your wheel's centerline would be exactly centered between the two tapered bearings.
 
Took it on the highway for the first time, it sucked.

Its got a rear DS vibe, from my gay bent hack and tap. Its got a little bit of bumpsteer that was never there. I think the wobbles might be coming from the unbalanced steel wheels with the rim stiffeners. I want to throw them on a tire balancing machine, just to see how bad they are.

I also played with the caster a little bit, could that have anything to do with it?
 
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