4.6L Stroker, Help me build it please!

[XJoshua]

So basically keep doing what Ive been doing. I couldnt get ahold of Robbie today he said he left town in a email I sent him, so I didnt bother calling.

I have confidence in my stroker being build correctly and I do understand machinists are out to make a profit. I need to get together with someone to sit down with and go over. This over the phone shit isnt worth my time because all I hear is a voice and I dont know really what they are like. I am sending something in thats worth alot of money to have alot of money put into, so its like sending a pet to the vet, I need to know the person on a personal level. January will probally be the best time for me to do this, when there are no more big parties at work, and everything is calm. Also gives me more time to save. Right now I got $400 in saving for this baby, and need a good $600 or more, its going to be a bitch to get this done by March...

Frank when you get the ening eback and start building, think I could come over aqnd watch from the side lines, wouldnt hurt to get some more understanding of the engine.

 

[Frank Z]

I don't mind. I've got everything except the lifters and I'm trying to resolve a main bearing issue right now. I'll let ya know when the fun starts.

FYI,
Robbie mentioned that he got your email. He'll be back in town on Monday.

 

[XJoshua]

Whats the grand total you spent on everything, and everything you had done. Im looking forward to meeting him and maybe doing bussiness with him as you have praised him so well for the work.

 

[Frank Z]

Milled the block.
Decked the head
Milled head for Chevy valve springs
CC'd the head
Bored .030
3 angle valve job
grind and polish the crank
balanced the crank, dampener, flex plate
installed new brass freeze plugs
installed new cam bearings
CC'd and milled pistons
pressed pistons and rods
Boiled the block
Boiled the head
Ground the valve faces
Installed valves, springs and retainers


New Parts:
Full gasket set
Crane Cam
Crane lifters
Silvolite coated skirt pistons
rod bearings
main bearings
Melling high volume oil pump
Cloyes True Dual roller timing chain set

There's a few more things, but it's late, I'm tired...... and I'm going to bed!

 

[jeepinwi]

Here's the breakdown of my stroker cost: Add about $100 for new head gasket, oil, and filters.

 

[jeepinwi]

Here's an updated and more accurate breakdown of my stroker:

 

[philip_g]

hell of a deal on that rebuild kit. Wish I could find one for 100 bucks.

 

[Israel]

hell of a deal on that rebuild kit. Wish I could find one for 100 bucks.

I wish I could find a crank and rods for $5.50!

 

[XJoshua]

I think I saw a carquest for Springs or Denver. Im looking for just the work I need done on the engine machine work wise done. Id like to do everything myself just so I can have the knowledge and bragging rights to all the high school kiddies(sadly Im still one for a semster...).

On a side note, I think Im falling in love with the 4Door Wranglers. Got to take a ride in one, and sit in it, and touch it, and lick it, well not lick. Good thing I drove my mums ZJ there otherwise my XJ might have gotten jealous... Im done, just wanted to say that I might get a TK for my college graduation in 4-5years... And back on topic NOW!

Ill make more calls this weekend, and I have more pressing matters to attend to like my rear brakes... Just Emptied Every Pocket

 

[XJoshua]

And look at what the head got in the mail today. Chevy 350 .550" Lift Valve Springs, Retainers, and Locks for a welittle $52.00 w/Shipping.

The Chevy 350 SS Valves are in the mail and are taking longer being they are further which is a bummer. So far Ive only spent $350.89 on parts to get the base parts of the stroker and the head complete - the machine work. So far Im right on budget and might pull this off as a Medium Buck, Low Budget Stroker Project!

 

[philip_g]

I didn't know you could use 350SB valves, springs, and retainers, cool!

 

[old_man]

My Crane cam called for their #99833 dual springs

Closed 95 lbs @ 1.7"
Open 247 lbs @ 1.24"

That may give you a point of reference when looking at springs. You have to watch for coil bind at high lift.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

How many miles do you have on your stroker Tom? I know you have the Crane 753901 cam (I thought you once had the smaller 750501) and with all the well-publicized failures of the Crane 753905 (including my own at 34k miles), I'm glad to see yours is still going strong. Which oil are you using?

 

[old_man]

I pulled the cam numbers from the sheet I found in my tool box last week, so they should be accurate. I probably only have about 25k miles on my stroker. I broke it in on 30w non-detergent. Changed it at 400 miles with the same. I could tell the rings had set at 1000 miles so I switched to Valvoline DuraBlend 10w30. My oil pressure has always been on the low side so I didn't go with 5w30. I run a Frantz toilet paper oil filter. They have been around for decades and I have been using them on vehicles for 40 years. My only complaint is that it is hard to tell the oil line on the dipstick because it is so clean.

I went with the Crane lifters and valve springs. I found them cheap on ebay.

 

[XJoshua]

The difference between Stock 4.0L HO and SB-350 Springs is the 350s are esitmated tape measure measurment of 1/64" taller, which seems rather minute. The valve seats will require machine work, being the 350 springs inner diameter is smaller then the ID of the 4.0L springs.

The 350 Springs Specs:
Seat Pressure - 110lbs @ 1.750"
Open Pressure - 325lbs @ 1.200"
Coil Bind - 1.150"
Nominal Lift - .490"
Max Lift - .550"

 

[mecompco]

I pulled the cam numbers from the sheet I found in my tool box last week, so they should be accurate. I probably only have about 25k miles on my stroker. I broke it in on 30w non-detergent. Changed it at 400 miles with the same. I could tell the rings had set at 1000 miles so I switched to Valvoline DuraBlend 10w30. My oil pressure has always been on the low side so I didn't go with 5w30. I run a Frantz toilet paper oil filter. They have been around for decades and I have been using them on vehicles for 40 years. My only complaint is that it is hard to tell the oil line on the dipstick because it is so clean.

I went with the Crane lifters and valve springs. I found them cheap on ebay.

To what do you attribute the lower-than-desired oil pressure?

 

[old_man]

It runs around 17 @ idle and 45-50 @ cruise. Not out of spec but I would have liked to see it higher. Every thing measured out when replacing the bearings, so my thought is loose lifter bores. I'm not worried. Just think of it as moving more oil past the bearing surfaces.

 

[mecompco]

It runs around 17 @ idle and 45-50 @ cruise. Not out of spec but I would have liked to see it higher. Every thing measured out when replacing the bearings, so my thought is loose lifter bores. I'm not worried. Just think of it as moving more oil past the bearing surfaces.

Thank you--just wondered if there was some particular aspect of your build that might bare consideration for future engine builders.

 

[XJoshua]

Well I finally meet the amount of money I needed in order to get everything machined I hope... I have $800 for the engine right now I can make a quick $200 in a week if I need to. So now Im finally about to move into the 50% completed mark. party1:

So some finaly questions and checks, and double checks before I forward all this to the machine shops who will have to fight for my business. Granted its not a large fight, but Id still like to find out who can get me the best deal and service.

Questions are in BOLD to make sure they arent overseen. Also add any other detail or ideas I might have forgotten or you feel should be noted.

So first off some new pictures. Not many, just picture of the head incomplete and the springs, and shinny new valves.

^^^Chevy 350 SS Valves 1.60/2.02", and Chevy 350 Valve Springs, Retainers, Locks.

^^^ Retainer installed on the Valve. This doesnt look to good, can it be machined or filed down to where the rocker will slide across the surface without catching?

These specs arent what I expect the engine to come near, but close. I have yet to measure anything as I would like the machine shop to do any measuring and purchase the pistons and rings for me to make sure they are correct and give me a CR of 9.20-9.40. Since I understand the Summit Racing piston selecton are 13cc instead of the 22cc I need.

^^^Everything look like a good place to start at?

This is what I am going to ask the machine shop to do, and of course make their own little suggestions. While I doubt they will have many suggestions other then purchasing everything through them. Does this look like Im on track and didnt forget anything? Should I spend a few more bills and get the rods shot peened? I do plan on revving the crap out of this a few times once broken in, but I think they will hold up after grinding away the seams as showed in the S.A. Block Prep Tutorial.

Valve Cover:
Acid Dip
Head:
Hot Tank
Magnaflux
Mill to Flatness
Reem Valve Stems
Mill Valve Spring Seats
Enlarge Valve Seat
3-Angle Valve Grind
Block:
Hot Tank
Magnaflux
Shave Deck(TO 9.440/0.013")
Bore(TO 3.905/0.030") & Hone
Install Freeze Plugs
Install Cam Bearings
Rods & Pistons:
Balance Rods
Weight Match Rods
Increase Piston Dish Volume(13cc TO 22cc)
Weight Match Pistons
Press Pistons To Rods
Crankshaft:
Check Clearance
Grind IF NECCESSARY
Balance
Oil Pan:
Acid Dip

Thanks a million and I will continue to post updates as everything come along. Also Ill try and get my site up and running with millions of references and thanks to the entire community and specifically Dr. Dyno, and 5-90 for their wisedom and over-educationalism(not a real word, but you get it).

 

[Frank Z]

Don't forget to take your flex-plate and Harmonic balancer into the shop so they can balance the crank properly.

You can save a few bucks by cleaning the valve cover and oil pan yourself.

Have the head CC'd.

I don't think shotpeening the rods is really necessary for the type of motor you are building. If you were building a full-on race motor that will see very high rpm's...sure.

New ARP rod bolts.

According to the FSM, head bolts can be re-used 1 time. Do you need new ones?

Melling high volume oil pump?

Timing chain set? (Cloyes Tru-roller is the way to go.)

Got your cam picked out yet?

Lifters?

Don't forget to check your lifter preload. You may need new push rods or rocker bridge shims.

Gasket set? You might not want to buy the full set. When you get your new water pump, thermostat, oil pump, etc they will generally include a new gasket. You may need to purchase just oil pan , valve cover and head, timing chain cover, and distributor gaskets. Call your favorite parts house and do the math before you order a full set.