.308 accuracy issues

[Ralph]

Recently I bought a Remington Model 7 .308 rifle. I've got a Leupold 2x7 variable scope mounted on it. I've been having some problems with accuracy. I cannot shoot a consistent sized group with it. The shots are all over the paper. I've tried different sized bullets, floated the barrel and glass bedded the action. The shots are still all over the paper. I've got a Model 700 .270 that will put 5 shots on a quarter at 100 yards. With the Model 7, I'm doing good to put them all on the paper. What other reasons could there be for such terrible accuracy?

One other thing, I had the same problems with open sights before I mounted the scope, so I don't think it's the scope.

Thanks,

 

[AIbandit]

Theres no way its the rifle at that distance... is the scopes mount secure? Try using a rifle rest and see if you can get a consistant (doesnt have to be accurate) shot group. If you cant get consistant with a rest then that eliminates siteing at all and leaves you with your barrel

err I didnt see your one other thing but it may still apply since your cheek to stock could effect the iron sights

Sorry but Its probably a bad bedding job

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

you know, I knew a guy who had the exact same problem and never did get it right, no matter what he did. He ended up trading it for something else.

 

[DrMoab]

Theres no way its the rifle at that distance... is the scopes mount secure? Try using a rifle rest and see if you can get a consistant (doesnt have to be accurate) shot group. If you cant get consistant with a rest then that eliminates siteing at all and leaves you with your barrel

??? I've had several rifles over the years that just plain and simple do not shoot right. It is very possible it could just be a bad gun.

 

[matt6669]

I know this probably isn't going to pertain to you, since it sounds like even your second shot is off from your first. But my buddy has one of those model 7's and after a couple of shots, it starts to wander, the barrels on those just SUCK big time for heat transfer. He's also got the model 7 in .308 and just doesn't like it.

I'm my opinion its too small of a gun for a .308 and he uses it for deer. He's thinking about getting a model 700 in .3006

If its brand new, or you bought it new very recently, I'd look into contacting Remington yourself, telling them the situation and seeing what they can do for you. That might be your best bet.

I would also try what someone said, and see if you can borrow a "lead sled" and try going with iron sights again to knock out the scope. A lot of the sleds have adjustments to allow you to actually adjust the sled so that your dead on target and then just pull the trigger. If your still wandering after that, I'd definitely consider contacting remington.

sorry for all the babble

 

[8Mud]

I've seen some seriously shot out rifles that were still fairly accurate. As mentioned the first thing to check is anything touching the barrel like a sling swivel screw.
Second thing to check is the bullet casing, if the neck isn't sealing properly the excess gas bypassing the neck can cause grief. Not only does it cause strange harmonics, it can cause an almost unconscious flinch when your shooting.
Next thing I'd do is retrieve a shot bullet or ten. Got to be careful with this, water can and will ricochet (deflect) a bullet. A duffel bag with a trash bag liner, filled with water and hung from a tree (in a safe spot) will catch a bullet most times or at least slow it enough to retrieve. Compare the bullets, study the lands and grooves. If you have a machining failure in your barrel, I'd contact Remington and ask for a replacement. Also mark the barrel to receiver fit, see if your mark changes between shots (a tiny scratch will do).
I had one Heckler and Koch that had a machine flaw, Heckler isn't Remington but the replacement they sent me was absolutely a first pick pistol. For what it is, it is one of the most accurate I've ever owned.
When your shooting, rest the rifle up on three sand bags, two front, one rear, touch the rifle as little as possible, make sure it is as vertical as possible for each shot. Just let it touch your shoulder (the same every time) and squeeze it off. Let it cool down some between shots with the bolt open.
I had a Winchester XLR in 308. that would shoot outstanding groups, with a medium priced Tasco scope.
A rule of thumb is, the rifle is almost always more accurate than the shooter is.
Many rifles climb (or change) as they heat up, in real life the first shot is usually the only one that counts anyway. Scatter groups are most often trigger jerk. Subtle things that you may not even notice, like a loose chamber and powder squirting out of the bolt (it can sting a little) and you'll learn to flinch fast. You may not even consciously notice. Hold a piece of white paper up next to the bolt and squeeze one off, see if there is any powder spray leaking around the bolt.
Most well equipped Gunsmiths have a bore scope.
Last thought, I've seen the internals in scopes come loose. I've got one on the shelf now with a loose reticle prism.

 

[ECKSJAY]

What's the load you're using? Bullet weight/type/brand, powder... Or if it's loaded stuff, what are you shooting?

 

[Wayne Sihler]

Check the muzzle crown. Any nick or burr will cause a problem.
I have a 700 Mtn Rifle in 257 Roberts that will put the first 2 shots in the same hole- but the third and any other shots will walk away, I try and only need one shot----

Wayne

 

[Ralph]

What's the load you're using? Bullet weight/type/brand, powder... Or if it's loaded stuff, what are you shooting?

I've tried Remington Express Core-Lokr 150 Gr. SPS, American Eagle 150 Gr. FMJ boat-tail, Winchester 150 gr. Power-Points and Black Hill 168 Gr Match Boat-tail hollow points.

The barrel is full floated. I can run a dollar bill down the entire length of the barrel to where the action is seated. It touches nothing. I bought the rifle used with open sights. I didn't shoot well with open sights. That's when I had the action bedded by a gunsmith recommended to me to me by friends who had similar work performed by him.

I've never had problems with the scope before. It was previously mounted on a .17 HMR which would put every shot in the x ring. I swapped the 2x7 for a higher powered scope to take better advantage of the .17's accuracy. I put the 2x7 on the .308 as I figured it would be fit the size of the rifle and the mission. The mission being medium range deer and hog hunting. I'm not looking for a tack driver, just something that I can confidently use hunting.

 

[AIbandit]

Just try it on a rifle rest to rule out the damaged scope and see if its operator headspace and timing
Trigger squeeze breathing anticipation. If its consistent on the rest post up non-rest targets and we can go from there

 

[8Mud]

The neck of the cartridge expands and seals the barrel. If your head space is off (bolt isn't seating correctly) it can leave (most times) a fan shaped powder burn on the neck of the cartridge case or even a groove (dent) where it necks down.
Chamber a few cartridges and then remove them, check the cartridge neck and bullet for damage.
Use a flashlight on the bolt end and look down the barrel. If somebody has shot unlubed or too hot of lead bullets, it can leave a lead trail down the barrel that will deform a bullet. Not to many people still shoot lead rifle bullets, but who knows for sure?
I'm thinking something may be deforming the bullet. I had one pistol, where the chamber meets the barrel and the lands and grooves start, that didn't have the required bezel. The beginning of the lands and grooves was 90 degrees to the axis of the bullet. Every time I fired it, it left a trail of debris. Though in all honesty, it still shot straight.
I've also got a 7 MM with a fairly severe ding in the barrel, never hurt accuracy that I've noticed. As long as the bullet flies the same every time accuracy doesn't suffer any (much).
Bullet deformation in the barrel, or cartridge case movement in the chamber, are my two best guesses. Even a fairly shot out barrel will still shoot decent groups in my experience.
I shoot 165 (167) Gr pointed boat tails in my 308.'s, I have one that is sure enough ammo finicky, anything but 165 pointed boat and it almost doubles the size of my groups.
I've epoxied most every mount and scope I've ever mounted on a rifle. I had a bad experience once twenty miles from nowhere, scope mount came loose. Maybe put your rifle in a vise and tap on the scope some and see what happens.
Check your parallax, swivel your head at different distances from the scope. The point where swiveling your head doesn't move the reticle is the sweet spot. The proper eye relief for that scope. Some scopes have parallax adjust, some don't. Parallax can move the reticle around the target dramatically, a good four inches depending on the distance to the target. Maybe the eye relief is way off on your new mounting.

 

[pikey77]

might check the action mounting screws to make sure they are tourqed to specs as well.

Have someone else shoot it as well without telling them what its doing to see if its you.