3-link v.s. 4-link

[VAhasnoWAVES]

your stock style suspension is still considered a 4 link with panhard, just short arm. there really is no definitive line as to what length qualifies as "long" there is also the "mid arm" variant.

3 link is just like 4 link with panhard, just minus an upper link. no, you cannot just take a stock upper off and think its a 3 link. there are seperation measurements that you need to be concerned with. and there is the strength issue of the stock upper mounts.

im pretty sure the 3rd style you were refering to is a radius arm setup, where the upper control arms actually attach to the lower, "long" arm.

 

[Albert Jr.]

your stock style suspension is still considered a 4 link with panhard, just short arm. there really is no definitive line as to what length qualifies as "long" there is also the "mid arm" variant.

3 link is just like 4 link with panhard, just minus an upper link. no, you cannot just take a stock upper off and think its a 3 link. there are seperation measurements that you need to be concerned with. and there is the strength issue of the stock upper mounts.

im pretty sure the 3rd style you were refering to is a radius arm setup, where the upper control arms actually attach to the lower, "long" arm.

That's it.. radius arm.

What I mean with long arm is what happens when you install a liftkit that
includes the radius setup.

I thought the radius setup was the only longarm setup available.
Then I found out about the 3 and 4 link suspensions that made me wonder.

This is why I'm asking which is better.

Btw, what is a panhard ?

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

panhard = trackbar

 

[Serious Offroad]

Panhard = Trackbar

 

[Albert Jr.]

Ooh alright thanks

 

[SkinnyRidgeMJ]

My 3 link setup. Less bind, easy packaging (Easier to obtain proper anti-dive and roll center numbers) with no strength concerns. Properly designed and engineered, any radius arm, 4 link or 3 link setup will perform well. Designed wrong they can all break or bind. I had great luck with a radius arm setup on my Comanche. Here is little proof. I did wear out a lot of control arm bushings though.



I chose 3 link for this build because I wanted more tune ability and more travel. This pic is not full flex. Still Had 8 inches of droop in the rf shock. Engine crane ran out of umph.



Safest bet for someone with little or no fab skills is to buy a kit from a reputable manufacturer. If you are going to tackle your own long arm for the first time the I would say do a radius arm. Start from there. It may be all you need or want.

 

[Starboard M]

Not arguing a single darned thing. In fact, I was going out of my way to point out that 3-links come from the factory, too, and that *any* suspension design can be done well (or it can be done craptastic)

What factory vehicles come with a 3 link from the factory? You mention Dodge, but from what I can see online the 2500s and up are a 4 link.

There is a whole lot of LOL in this thread, but at least I have not seen anyone reference the IRO radius arms as 3 links.

 

[yossarian19]

New dodge 2500 / 3500. Link here. "Quote says Up front, both Rams have an advanced three-link suspension with greater roll stiffness, avoiding body roll..."

 

[Ian Christiansen]

Dodge considers radius arms with a panard bar a three link.

 

[Starboard M]

Dodge considers radius arms with a panard bar a three link.

Exactly.

Some people consider the panhard to be a link, so the stock XJ front suspension can be called a 5 link.

This picture shows radius arms. Cant see a panhard, but Im sure its there.

 

[yossarian19]

My bad. I assumed I just couldn't see the third link when I looked at it but yeah, you can see the LCA connected in two places which = radius arm.
I think the point more or less remains that a 3 link can be done safely or poorly (same with anything else) and that a 4 link isn't the only way to maintain DD safety / stability.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

not that 3 or 4 link technology is anything new, but their havent been many bolt on options until recently. radius arms have been available for YEARS because of the ease of packaging.

all have inherent problems with either characteristics or packaging... and this is why we have stickies.

 

[sunburned]

3-link bolt-on: Poly Performance, Claytons, Rock Krawler

4-link bolt on: Poly Performance, Claytons, BDS, Full-Traction

I'd say go this way over radius arms. If the geometry of any of these systems isn't good enough for a street driver and basic wheeler, then you should be designing and building your own custom suspension instead of buying something off the shelf.





Why are we discussing this again? Is the OP even seriously listening and picking a setup for his Jeep?