3.5" Super Ride RE lift install ADVICE!!!!

[xcm]

Coil isolators isolate the coil from the unibody... basically prevents the coil from sitting on raw steel, theyre rubber donuts that go on the bump towers before the coil for it to ride on. Prevents a squeek, you can add extra's on, as a poor/quick boost up front, up to about 3 or 4 if your brave.

 

[chasdb]

What do the coil isolators do? And do I have to buy a trackbar too?

coil spring isolators are the 1/2" soft rubber pads above the coil, you can run several for a cheep lift, the coil spring spacers are thicker polyurethane and usually come 3/4 thick or 2"

At 4 you should get an adjustable track bar. With a 3" kit you drill a new hole in the track bar bracket on the axle to recenter it.

I need to tear into the 242's I have to see if one will work for you with a h&t. I do have a spare front shaft that I was using at 4.5" that may be ok with a 8.25.

 

[ethanbarnard]

Ohhhh ok yeah I know what coil spacers are.. the track bars are kind of new to me but I think I understand.. what are you talking about the front shaft and h&t tho? I'm a little confused haha

 

[Bleckers3]

Please bear in mind, the RE 3.5 nets more than 3.5 inches of lift.

And most kits when you hit the 4.5 mark require upper control arms and frankly short arms are at a pretty extreme angle for smoothness. Look at how flat the OEM bars are.

the IRO hack and tap is super straight forward, especially if you don't want to open the xfer case. Get shims to set pinion angle.

After market track bars are good too. I like the IRO, claytons, or really any double sheer design with a beefy new frame side bracket.

Most likely stock rim backspacing with 31x10.5 will rub the arms at full lock...fyi

 

[ethanbarnard]

Alright so does the super ride not come with upper control arms? I'm foreign to a lot of this stuff I'm finding out.... starting to realize that its not as straight forward as I though, and I might be over my head on this one..... :/

 

[Skwerly]

If it were me, I'd save money and buy a cheaper but more complete kit. The install really is pretty straight-forward, if you have all the components. My 'cheaper' Rusty's has tons of flex but the components are a tad cheaper so, as you see fit, you can upgrade to RE stuff, one by one.

 

[fallacist]

you need to do some searching and review faqs and stickys. yo

if you don't know what a front shaft has to do with a Hnt(or not know what a HnT is) then you're right, you're over your head at this point. you need to do WAY more research before pulling the trigger on any kind of lift.

do it once do it right:
over 3" of lift you should get a track bar
you should do a sye
you should get a full leaf pack instead of an AAL.

the site says call to customize, I suggest you do that and try to work on the price as well.

you need to spend some long hours on this site searching and reading. these topics have been beat to death, and while its fun to discuss them, you need to know and reference this stuff yourself.

life note: nothing is ever "free" with a purchase, you're still paying for it someway, somehow...

 

[Bleckers3]

I have a 1998 and I had the same dilema. I'll give you my experience.

I wanted the RE 3.5 super flex - learned a lot about it, studied reviews...

I found a RE 3.5 kit used for sale.

Key Parts:
3.5 coils
3.5 leaf springs
Lower Control Arms.

Variable Parts: (can be multiple vendors/design)
Extended Brake lines - YJ oem lines work well and are cheap (rockauto.com)
Track Bar - don't re drill the mount. Spend the cash, get a good double sheer.
Sway Bar Disconnects - I like JKS
Front Bump Stops - hockey pucks FTW
Rear Bump stops - Daystar Part and eventually a contact plate on axle.

Shocks:
Get what you pay for. I'm testing out the ZONE nitro next week. But obviously Bilstein or OME etc are best. Try to calculate actual size requirements, compressed and droop the "average" lift size charts can be off.

SYE:
Consensus is 1997-2001 need them. I'm installing the IRO hack n tap next week also. Get the correct shims to orient the pinion angle.

To Make this a 4.5 lift, add upper control arms, longer coils (or spacer) and a JKS shackle to the leaves. Once you go higher, you'll want larger tires...Now you need gears, and heck why not lockers....

It's an inverted pyramid. The top is the coolest, but most expensive and custom.:confused1

 

[ethanbarnard]

Alright this is my conclusion then guys, does anyone have a 3.5" lift they know of or want to sell for a.reasonable price? Doesn't have to be RE, just has to be complete and in good condition! I'm also interested in a trackbar, and basically anything needed for this build. Don't suppose anyone will have an sye kit lying around? Haha and also, if anyone would be interested in helping me out, shoot me a private message and we can swap info and maybe set up a date to get my xj jacked up! Thanks again to all you guys with the advice, all of it is very much so appreciated!

 

[Serious Offroad]

Anyone look in the Vendor Forum lately?

 

[BlackCTXJ]

I'm about to pull the trigger and order the RE 3.5" super ride kit

Does anyone know the Bushing Diameter size for the main + shackle end of the rear leafs?

 

[Serious Offroad]

Do it..
Do it now.

:looney:

 

[BlackCTXJ]

Somebody run out to their rig in the drive way and measure those bushings - I'll send you a six pack !

 

[ethanbarnard]

I say just call RE, they will know the exact sizes and you'll know they're the legit sizes.

 

[yaromb]

OK. So here is from personal experience, as I actually had an RE 3.5" Ultra Ride installed last week on a 1998 XJ.

Other than the full kit (RE 6025 with springs), I also added a drop pitman arm, RE adjustable track bar, RE tie rod and RE steering stablizer. I used Bilstein 5100 for socks and re-geared the front and back to 4.11.

Lift was completed with 31x10.5/15 BFGs.

A. I wanted to install poly coil spacers and 1" spring shackles to get some more lift. I was told by the shop guys that it could void the RE warranty and will modify the ride to be less optimal. I tend to believe them, as they install hundreds of these (4 Wheel Parts) and actually own Rubicon Express.
B. On a 1998 XJ, SYE is almost inevitable. I had the RE SYE installed and waited for the lift to be completed and the car to be back down on the ground, to measure the exact length from the flange to the U joint on the diff (D35). Length was 34" and the shaft will be RE 1898-335 (1/2 off for initial lift sag).
C. Do not count on the lift being higher than 3.5". I have been told it will get there after it settles. We measured it new (almost 4.5")and will measure it again after 500 miles, when I come in for my free bolt tightness check and diff oil change (new gearing, need to change the oil to get the metal shavings flushed out).
​

In hindsight, I should have gone with the 5.5"-6.5", as it is likely I will get there anyways. No big deal - will use this for a year or so and will move to a bigger lift, long arms and 35" when I fell the need...

 

[Skwerly]

Yea, the best thing to do, in my opinion, is to go with the lift you really want in the first place. I went up 4.5” and after a few years went up another two, but it wasn’t a big deal because I just added pucks and shackles so I could stuff some bigger shoes under it.

Also, to yaromb: I’d check those bolts long, long before 500 miles. Seriously. Those things back out all the time when new. Especially if you wheel it hard.

 

[yaromb]

OK, I will. Just got my torque wrench...