kevinmerritt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boone, NC
Would 3.5" of lift and a decent amount of fender trimming be able to fit 33's. If so how wide do you think I could go to prevent rubbing on the LCA's? Thanks.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
3.5" lift and 33's??
- Thread starter kevinmerritt
- Start date
xtrm_jeepr
NAXJA Forum User
Thats around the amount of lift Im at right now, and can fit them with a lot of trimming. As for width and rubbing Im not sure what size would eliliminate the rubbing, probably a 9.5 or a bit of backspacing. I am running 12.5 Boggers and rub around one to one and a half full turns of the wheel. It doesnt really bother me, but I have to back up a lot on the trail.
You can "fit" the tires. The problem comes when you try to flex the suspension. You would have to trim not just the sheet metal, but alter the wheel wells to get much compression. I'm at 5" with 33" TSLs and cut fenders and I would consider that about the minimum for that size tire.
There is nothing wrong with running 31's at 3.5" lift. It would be a more balanced suspension that would just work better.
Backspacing is the key to avoiding rubbing on the LCAs. Space the tire further out and you will rub less. Run a narrower tire and you will rub less. The tradeoff here is (especially with low lift and 33s) that you will need more room in the front wheelwells at the front and back because the wheel swings in a bigger arc. I actually rub the back of the wheelwells at compresssion and near lock with the steering. You can't just trim that away.
It's all a compromise. If you gotta have the big meats and don't care about rubbing, knock yourself out. If you want to make 33's fit well, lift it a little more and break out the sawzall. If you don't want the expense of making 5-6" lift work right and rubbing bothers you, stick with 31" tires.
mattk
There is nothing wrong with running 31's at 3.5" lift. It would be a more balanced suspension that would just work better.
Backspacing is the key to avoiding rubbing on the LCAs. Space the tire further out and you will rub less. Run a narrower tire and you will rub less. The tradeoff here is (especially with low lift and 33s) that you will need more room in the front wheelwells at the front and back because the wheel swings in a bigger arc. I actually rub the back of the wheelwells at compresssion and near lock with the steering. You can't just trim that away.
It's all a compromise. If you gotta have the big meats and don't care about rubbing, knock yourself out. If you want to make 33's fit well, lift it a little more and break out the sawzall. If you don't want the expense of making 5-6" lift work right and rubbing bothers you, stick with 31" tires.
mattk
Ronbo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Marcos, CA
This is a little more than 3" of lift, 31's and no bumpstop extension. I trimmed and relocated the flares up to the level a 4.5" lift would give. You can see rubbing on the coil tower and the inner fenderwell seam at the back of the wheelwell, very minor, IMO.
With 4.5" backspacing, bumpstop extension, and a little trimming of the inner 'lip' I could probably squeeze(a small) 33 in there. I'd like to do that, but I'll probably remove the .75" poly spacer for a 1.75" spacer to help a little. 31's are just too small...
With 4.5" backspacing, bumpstop extension, and a little trimming of the inner 'lip' I could probably squeeze(a small) 33 in there. I'd like to do that, but I'll probably remove the .75" poly spacer for a 1.75" spacer to help a little. 31's are just too small...
- Location
- NC Sandhills
MattK Speaks the truth. My MJ ran 33x12.5 on 8x4.5" BS wheels on front (Rustys 3"coils + 1.75" spacers, stock bumpstops, OEM control arms) and neglected to whack that weld-seam flat...I have a 700 mile BFG-MT with a major gash through the tread & belts laying around to remind me why I should have.
If I were to apply any bondo or tiger hair 'glass to my Jeep, it'd be to smooth up all those sharp edges that I beat flat. Noticed a nice 1/8" cut through two lugs of my old MTs today...a victim of too much stuff into too unfreindly of a beaten in rear (4-door @ 2-3") wheelwell. The lugs on back are only 1/4" deep...I would have maulled a new 33" and been :bawl: again... taller leafpacks and MJ bumpstops going on soon...
I used to not care...but I am soon to have spooled & lockered axles, and fresh mudslingers, I rethinking the wisdom of using sheetmetal as bumpstops. More better performance if all 4 tires are spinning and not polishing the undercarriage. With open diffs, the tire stuffed is usually the one that wants to bite the hardest, and if it's in conflict or being destroyed...guess where the power is going.
assgas:
If I were to apply any bondo or tiger hair 'glass to my Jeep, it'd be to smooth up all those sharp edges that I beat flat. Noticed a nice 1/8" cut through two lugs of my old MTs today...a victim of too much stuff into too unfreindly of a beaten in rear (4-door @ 2-3") wheelwell. The lugs on back are only 1/4" deep...I would have maulled a new 33" and been :bawl: again... taller leafpacks and MJ bumpstops going on soon...
I used to not care...but I am soon to have spooled & lockered axles, and fresh mudslingers, I rethinking the wisdom of using sheetmetal as bumpstops. More better performance if all 4 tires are spinning and not polishing the undercarriage. With open diffs, the tire stuffed is usually the one that wants to bite the hardest, and if it's in conflict or being destroyed...guess where the power is going.
assgas:
Last edited:
- Location
- Louisville, IL
Woody, did you put relief cuts in the weld-seam or just pound it flat? TIA Jim
- Location
- NC Sandhills
I made relief cuts then pounded it flat. I even bought a new BFH (3# hand sledge) for the ceremony
