3.5 inches with Shackles and shackle relocation?

[Dozer11B]

Hey guys.

Currently I am running the RC 4.5 X-series with SYE and TW driveshaft. Not a big fan of the drop brackets as they are vulnerable and could cause hang-ups. Thought about having them welded for strength, but there is still the clearance issue.

Been poking around in advanced fab and realize I gotta stay outta there for a while- at least until I get a welder and some experience welding!

Completely redesigning/building my links to go long/mid arm is not the place to learn and the kits out there are very high priced. Sitting down and planning it out with a reputable shop is easy, but after I pick up my Jeep today I will have around $1200 in labor to replace my leafspring hangers with the Synergy Suspension kit and my floorboards due to rust, as well as having frame stiffeners welded in and some work added to my roof rack.

Tired of paying folks for stuff I can not do yet.

Once I get some fab experience I can start thinking about full widths and going bigger...

So I am looking at going down to 3.5 inches, keeping my short arm four link (adj LCA/UCA), ditching the drop brackets and going heavy on the skids.

I am currently running 31" TSLs and the highest I will go with this setup is 33" since I have an XJ D44 and a spare HP D30 to build.

Front is easy: 3.5 inch coils.

For the back my idea is to run some stock height replacement springs- $99 from where I'm shopping around (can be had in HD versions), some shackles and the HD Offroad shackle relocator kit.

Pretty firm on the relocation kit as the stock area is getting questionable due to rust.

Just trying to see which shackles guys have used in conjuction with a relocation kit.

So if you are running a shackle relocation kit with longer shackles to net 3.5in I would love to hear your experiences.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

most use bommerangs, they clear better upon compression. length will depend on your shackle angle and leaf spring.

what are you doing with your old drop brackets?

 

[Dozer11B]

Yeah I'm looking at a few different makers of boomerangs. The RK ones are adjustable from 1.5 to 2.5 inches of lift. Playing with the angle will be easy with the relocation brackets so the most expensive part of it all might be trying a few different types of shackles. THAT'S the part I'm trying to avoid.

Might be a while before I start converting over (in the middle of moving to Louisiana), but you can have first dibs on the drop brackets...

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

what shackles do you have? id buy decent springs or build a mild bastard pack rather than buy OEM style.

 

[Dozer11B]

Well In addition to the RC 4.5in springs I have, I have a brand new set of rusty's 3.5in and a heavily used set of Rusty's 4.5in.

I'm looking at morris 4x4 center because they have a few different spring packs termed "HD" which I imagine are a little stiffer than stock but give the stock ride height. They're only $99. Gonna call them and ask a few questions because they have different sets with different arch measurements which I imagine is for different spring/load rates??

RockKrawler adj shackles will give me 2.5 inches and depending on how I set them up with the relocation brackets I can get another inch for 3.5 inches.

IronMan 4x4 Fab has some adjustable shackles that gor from 0-3.5in in 1.25 increments, but they are not boomerangs.

I'll probably spend more money than I want to getting it dialed in...

 

[cal]

First and foremost, keep the drop brackets. Its the smoothest ride you're going to get - and if you actually manage to get hung up on them, you've done something wrong. they don't hang much if any lower than a mid arm would, and are right next to the tire..


We were fully prepared to race King of the Hammers on our drop brackets. the only reason we changed is our lower control arm bushings were worn out, and Full Traction sponsored us (with their awesome longarm 4 link).


Shackle Relocation brackets don't give you very much lift - an inch or less in my experience (and I just installed them a month or so ago..). Take your current 4.5" leafs and have a leaf shop rework them for 2.5-3" of lift. Add the relocation brackets and a long shackle, you should be pretty good to go.

 

[Dozer11B]

Just spoke with Morris- different arches are factory coded for different XJ packages.

Looking to go with the LT coded packs: LT - 7" free arch, load rating 755 UpCountry + 1. Then the adjustability of the RK shackles, couple with the relocation brackets should get me the 3.5in desired lift.

As far as a bastard pack goes, I have read it's kind of a hit and miss, meaning install, pull, rebuild pack until you get it right. Also can end up not being as flexible.

 

[Dozer11B]

Hey Cal, thanks for the input.

As far as your drop brackets go, what did you do to them (if anything) to beef them up? I could have them welded in and add some bracing, but again- I'm paying someone to do that.

Just thought if I dropped down to 3.5 I could ditch those and tune my adjustable arms.

I could rework my rear springs like you said and then play with shackles and the relocation bracket. Understand the 1 inch lift (max) from the relocation, that's why I was looking at 2.5 shackles.

I have an XJ d44 and spare d30 I can build up to handle 33s comfortably, I am cut and folded rear and cut very high in the front so 3.5 would bring the stance down some.

Might go read some more into the Naxja/Petty Cash thread some more.

My Old Man used to drag race motorcycles and I had the privilege of being at some of his races for the good times and the bad.

Tough luck on the KOH, but it was cool to be represented and you guys can always build better, faster, stronger from the experience!

Thanks again!

 

[cal]

Oh we're better faster and stronger already. We just need to replace our rear end - which was always on the list, we just ran out of time.

I welded (1" stiches on each side) the drop brackets into the LCA pocket, and welded the braces to the frame (a few 1" stiches as well).

Its like 15 minutes of work for someone who has a welder handy. Find a local jeeper, or talk to a local exhaust shop - a lot of those guys will do a couple of quick welds for a 6 pack of beer. I don't have pictures handy, but if you really need I can take pictures of drop brackets and draw some red lines where I had welded.

I'd go for 4.5" and run the DB's though. That puts your control arms flat at ride height, which is the best ride you're going to get without getting stupid and overengineering things.

 

[Dozer11B]

Ok well I have some 3.5 in springs, so I definitely have some options here...

I hear you on the drop brackets. Jeep came lifted 4.5 without them and I replaced the whole lift with them- it was a world of difference!

 

[souske]

$1200 in labor to replace my leafspring hangers with the Synergy Suspension kit and my floorboards due to rust, as well as having frame stiffeners welded in and some work added to my roof rack.

Once I get some fab experience I can start thinking about full widths and going bigger...

Slightly OT: For $1200, you could have bought a welder and done the frame stiffeners and floor repair yourself. As long as the roof rack is steel, you could have likely made those mods yourself as well. Only two ways to gain that experience.
1. Do it yourself (likely the hard way)
2. Assist someone who has experience
Not trying to be rude, just sayin...

As far as shackles, I dont see the need for boomerangs in conjunction with the shackle relocator. I only put boomerangs on because there is just not enough room for a straight shackle to move in the factory pocket. Cutting the bumper bolt that protrudes into the pocket helps a little, but the angle is still not ideal.
While I dont think running boomerangs would hurt anything, dont limit yourself to boomerang only styles.

OT: I have been thinking about doing the shackle relocators as well, but i am trying to loose an inch or so in the rear. Is there a chart or something to determine shackle length?

 

[Dozer11B]

Souske:

Understood on learning the craft. Really wanted to get the floors fixed before I slogged through too many more rainy drives to work. Was just going to rivet new panels in, but on closer inspection, the rust goes all the way back under the seat crossmembers and those are bad enough that the guy is rebuilding them as well. Also had an interior portion of the wiring harness exposed under the jeep. I chopped up an old rubber floor mat to keep the harness from rubbing on the sharp metal until I could get it in.

Once I get settled in Louisiana I plan on picking up a welder and taking a class. There is a technical college right outside of Ft Polk. I'm pretty good at things of this nature, so I'm pretty sure I could pick up the basics fairly quick.

I was also looking at the Ironman 4x4 shackles as well. They are not boomerangs, but they offer a little more in adjustability. They are adjustable from 0-3.5 inches.

Haven't seen a chart for the shackles and relocators, but the above mentioned shackles could be an option for you- adjustable in 1.25" increments.

I think I'll keep what Cal was saying in mind, drop to the 3.5 inch springs I have and between shackles and relocators be able to get back to 4.5.

I looked around a little more and found that RE's brace for the control arm drop would put my mind at ease. It follows the "framerail" all the way down to the crossmember bolt holes. This could be welded to the unibody every couple of inches.

Could be a good first welding project...:cheers:

 

[Cottontail]

We were fully prepared to race King of the Hammers on our drop brackets. the only reason we changed is our lower control arm bushings were worn out, and Full Traction sponsored us (with their awesome longarm 4 link).

You want to clear out some shop space and get rid of those drop brackets??? :cheers:

 

[brianglawson]

+1 on the drop brackets... I ultimately went to a long arm setup.... but short arms and drop brackets ABSOLUTELY rode better.... If anything.. all i really benefitted from the swap was bling.... well... and BEEF

But anyway... I was a big fan of my RC drop brackets.. and I would highly recommend keeping them and working with the 4.5, or more

 

[NorCalChris]

For what my opinion is worth, I am currently building another XJ. Im going with 5.5inch coils and some good shocks in the front. Out back I am mounting a ford 8.8, shackle relocators and using my 2inch liift shackles. what ever is left to get me to my desired lift size I will make my leafs to put me there. Most likley will need something around 2inchs or so. Now, I wouldnt take the drop brackets off. I had some onmy last jeep and they rode wayy better then not having them. People always say you will get hung up on them, I never did, but then again, I DONT wheel in pure rocks.

 

[Dozer11B]

Yeah the plan was to drop from 4.5 to 3.5 and then remove the drop brackets.

I think the plan now will be to just beef them up a little, and make some changes to the rear as discussed above.