2wd axle and WJ brakes.

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Anyone know if the JKS spacer is required to put the WJ brakes onto a 97 2wd axle? It appears that with a 6lbs of boost, the Boostec XJ needs better brakes.

Go figure...

 

[gradon]

I want to upgrade the front brakes on my 96 2wd someday, so am interested in the response. I've seen the WJ brake threads, but didn't follow them. Do the 15" wheels have to go? The ZJ rears work well.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

I'm thinking that the JKS spacer is used to properly position the u-joint with repect to the ball joints. No u-joint, no problem? 16's will be a better choice for wheels (I have a set from a 98 ZJ 5.9 Limited lined up for my XJ) But folks here are getting the caliper to clear with minor grinding.

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Do you already have discs in the rear? If not, I would do that first.

 

[gradon]

I have the 16" 5.9 limited/silverstars on my 88 MJ with 225/50/16 Yoko Advan Neovas(can you say wheel well gap?):

 

[XJEEPER]

Do you already have discs in the rear? If not, I would do that first.

Disagree.

Considering braking bias, larger front rotors and dual piston calipers will net you better braking that rear discs and stock fronts. WJ the front, add the rear discs later.

BTW, I have TJ rear discs and WJ fronts :thumbup:

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Disagree.

Considering braking bias, larger front rotors and dual piston calipers will net you better braking that rear discs and stock fronts. WJ the front, add the rear discs later.

BTW, I have TJ rear discs and WJ fronts :thumbup:

Oh for sure. Ya I'm doing both right now, 8.8 with discs and WJ swap in front.:wierd:

 

[IXNAYXJ]

Disagree.

Considering braking bias, larger front rotors and dual piston calipers will net you better braking that rear discs and stock fronts. WJ the front, add the rear discs later.

Absolutely, couldn't agree more. Upgrade the fronts, the rear drums (as long as they are working) are just fine for street use up to a point. We ran two races still using the stock drums.

For offroad use, it's a different story however.

-Matt

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

Absolutely, couldn't agree more. Upgrade the fronts, the rear drums (as long as they are working) are just fine for street use up to a point. We ran two races still using the stock drums.

For offroad use, it's a different story however.

-Matt

x2. Getting those rear brakes to stop 33' in a jam can be entertaining. I'm not a big fan of the nose dive either, which I assume would increase by just upgrading the fronts.

 

[IXNAYXJ]

The only reason I put the caveat of offroad use has nothing to do with tire size, simply that offroad, drums can get clogged up, fade when wet and if you have to back down a hill the rear discs' extra clamping force is handy.

Nose dive on a lifted rig is caused by weight transfer, and will happen with rear discs or drums...it's just the nature of the beast. It has nothing to do with brake bias.

-Matt

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

right on.

 

[casual]

Stiffer front spings should solve that problem for ya.
I get hardly any nose dive & I'm at 5" w/ 33's. On top of that I haven't had rear brakes (drums) for 6-7 months because I'm looking for a ford 8.8 and I don't see a point of spending money on a lost cause (D35).

I daily drive just fine. Had to emergency brake from about 80-85mph one day on the freeway, going down the Cajuan Pass & lets say that I almost need new pants after that:roflmao:
It can get quite scary if you aren't paying attention.

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

I don't have a nose dive issue on my current xj, it was on my 6th xj where she liked to do that. I put discs on the rear and didnt have a problem after that. Stopping was a lot more smooooooother.

Back to the OP I dont think you'll need the flange since its main purpose is to space the unit hubs off the knuckle 1/4" to get the axle u-joint on the correct plane with the ball joints and steering axis.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

^^^That's what I'm thinking... The Silverstars that gradon posted are exactly what I have sitting on my garage floor. Anyone know if the calipers will clear factory steelies without grinding?

Better than 65% of your total braking is done by the front brakes. You have to consider the weight transfer off of the back axle as it nose dives.

 

[JeepCherokeeGuy99]

you will have about a 3mm gap between the caliper and stock wheel

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

3mm is huge! Thanks, now I can give Boostec a proper list of choices.

 

[anthrax323]

Back on the original topic: the JKS spacer moves the unit bearing out about 1/4", which also affects brake rotor alignment within the caliper. I'd be inclined to believe that yes, you should go ahead and install the spacers even though it is a non-driven front axle in your application.

 

[dasbulliwagen]

My thinking is if you use the unit bearing from the other model to get the bolt pattern corrrect, you will need the spacer, but if you redrill the Wj unit bearing, and the WJ rotor for the correct bolt pattern, you wont need the spacer, as they all work together with their original spindle to keep everything aligned as original. Make sense?

 

[yossarian19]

Back on the original topic: the JKS spacer moves the unit bearing out about 1/4", which also affects brake rotor alignment within the caliper. I'd be inclined to believe that yes, you should go ahead and install the spacers even though it is a non-driven front axle in your application.

With a lug mounted caliper, I'd agree. The WJ caliper, though, is a floating type mounted on slides. I don't think that 1/4" is going to matter one way or the other.

 

[cal]

Another consideration - and a lot less work - would be the Black Magic upgrade. Bolt in caliper/pad/rotor, and is reported to be as good of an upgrade as the WJ setup simply through the use of superior components.