231 doubler?

[ECKSJAY]

Do these customers run in rocks?

Perhaps its more of a problem for me because of the 6.3 to 1 first gear.

Or maybe I'm just very picky.

Driveline slop really sucks.

What have you got for rear differential? I'm assuming locked...with what?

 

[ROCKREADYXJ]

I would agree that drive line slop sucks it also leads to broken parts.

I can't say how they wheel thier vehicles. not to familiar with every customers driving habits.

 

[XJ_ranger]

but i read it on the internet, its gotta work...

I saw an earlier post about a 207 doubler...

Just looking for some options for an extra low...

the 207 doubler was behind a 4 cyl and an ax-5 IIRC for what its worth...

 

[Ludakris]

ok, they do mention the 231 w/ d300 combo, but they also mention this could be done w/ 2 231's.
So, I was thinking, pick up another 231, then the kit.
I have an 89' stock 4.0L, A/T. D30, 8 1/4. My thought was throw in some 4:56's and the doubler with 35's and I would have a decent all around combo for what ever I encounter on the east coast.. I would have the stock 4LO for the usual, then the 4LO-LO for rocks. Seemed like a good deal to me, wanted to know if anyone else had the idea or had done it, or better yet knew the problems with it..

I thought the $599 for the kit was a bit steep though...

 

[xjfan1974]

After reading the post pirate I been seriously thinking about, but I don't want to get to the expense of what altas would cost or I would go that route.

 

[CRASH]

What have you got for rear differential? I'm assuming locked...with what?

ARB

 

[CRASH]

ok, they do mention the 231 w/ d300 combo, but they also mention this could be done w/ 2 231's.
So, I was thinking, pick up another 231, then the kit.

Like I said, check the input torque for the second 231. With a standard XJ manual, you'd be at 2439 ft lbs with a stock 4.0 (225 ft lbs). Maybe a touch more with an auto, but it's got a converter to soak up shock loads. 2439 is far above the rated torque for a 231J. You would have to retrofit the 241 or 231C parts to get your input torque rating up a bit.

 

[Ludakris]

Like I said, check the input torque for the second 231. With a standard XJ manual, you'd be at 2439 ft lbs with a stock 4.0 (225 ft lbs). Maybe a touch more with an auto, but it's got a converter to soak up shock loads. 2439 is far above the rated torque for a 231J. You would have to retrofit the 241 or 231C parts to get your input torque rating up a bit.

Huh? I am no math guy, so help me out..
225 ft/lbs x 2.8 (aw4 1st) = 630 ft/lbs
630 ft/lbs x 2.72 (231 low) = 1713.6

according to the Novak site, the 231 is good for 1600-1900 ft/lbs..

or is it in the second case, that it will get sticky?

I think i answered my own question...
I hate when that happens
on to the 241.....

 

[Root Moose]

If you want the flexibility of multiple gear ratios maybe look at the Stak t-case?

Otherwise go for the 241J to get 4:1.

 

[Ludakris]

I thought of something else about the input torque, aren't there a couple guys here running Klune's? wouldnt this be the same scenario?

 

[CRASH]

I thought of something else about the input torque, aren't there a couple guys here running Klune's? wouldnt this be the same scenario?

Yes, they are in the same boat.

On your original math question, I always figure a 2 to 1 torque converter multiplication on an auto so:

225 ft/lbs x (2.8 1st gear x 2 converter)= 1260 ft lbs to the first 231.

Then 1260ft lbs x 2.72 = 3427 ft lbs.

A 241 would be a fine choice for the second case, as would an NP205. Both can easily handle 3,000 ft/lbs of input torque.

http://moose.ca/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=46

 

[Ludakris]

ah, forgot about the converter thing.. i gotch now...


as far as that Stak case.. for the price I would go Atlas, dont they have a 3 spd coming out?

I am trying to go cheap.. like everything else on my heep... which usually means, used or jy..

 

[Roxtar]

CRASH, I also read the Pirate thread and it interested me. What would be the downside of a 231/300 combo, other than the redicules $600 price tag for their adaptor?
Assuming I could machine the adaptor plate myself, wouldn't that give me a reasonably bulletproof low range TC for about $1500 less than an Atlas?

 

[CRASH]

Not sure of the torque rating of the 300, but with an upgraded output shaft on the 300, I think it would be OK. The 300 has proven itself over the years behind V-8 power and low geared manuals.

I guess if you could make the adaptor and the flip kit yourself, it would be a good option to run a 300 behind the 231. You'd at least be eliminating the slop of the second planetary set that you'd have with the 231. For the average Joe, however, adding the flip kit to a rebuilt 300, and then the 231 doubler adaptor puts you easily in the range of an Atlas $$$ wise, especially since the price is going to come down when the 4 speed Atlas comes out in January.

 

[Jeffro600]

This would be a worthwhile upgrade if you already have the 231 and the 300...whats an altas cost...2000+?? I dont know what you guys do for a living, but i dont have that kinda cash to throw into a trasnfer case...granted, its not an atlas, but it seems like a decent, much more inexpensive alternative if you looking for a lower crawl ratio. If i can find a 300 for cheap, i might look into the kit some more.

 

[BrettM]

ah, forgot about the converter thing.. i gotch now...


as far as that Stak case.. for the price I would go Atlas, dont they have a 3 spd coming out?

I am trying to go cheap.. like everything else on my heep... which usually means, used or jy..

High Angle Driveline has the Stak for sale for less than a similarly equipped 4.3 or 5.0 Atlas.

Advanced Adapters has a 4 speed Atlas due out soon, but it's a plantetary reduction in front of a geared case, essentially a Klune in front of an Atlas but in smaller packaging.

 

[BrettM]

CRASH, I also read the Pirate thread and it interested me. What would be the downside of a 231/300 combo, other than the redicules $600 price tag for their adaptor?
Assuming I could machine the adaptor plate myself, wouldn't that give me a reasonably bulletproof low range TC for about $1500 less than an Atlas?

you also need a spud shaft splined and heat treated. no doubt it could still be done DIY style for under $600, but be sure to factor that in.

 

[Root Moose]

ah, forgot about the converter thing.. i gotch now...

FWIW, I've seen as low as 1.7-1.8 quoted for the AW4 converter. Internet lore and all but it makes for more optimistic calcs. I always use 2.5 regardless of which make transmission. I have an old Hummer H1 brochure (Civie) around here and it quotes 2.2 for the 4L60E (or was it 4L80 - can't find it currently).

as far as that Stak case.. for the price I would go Atlas, dont they have a 3 spd coming out?

Just waiting for someone else to be a guinea pig or do you have concerns about how it is built? Just curious.

I am trying to go cheap.. like everything else on my heep... which usually means, used or jy..

If you were in my neck of the woods I'd agree with this but if you are doing south west style rocks I think this may be a touch of false economy. (FWIW)

 

[Weasel]

I dunno about those torque numbers, I mean I know the math is right but the only time you are ever going to see that is if your tire is wedged under a rock, not turning and you give it all the power you can. And if thats the case I don't know of much that would hold up.

 

[XJ_ranger]

I dunno about those torque numbers, I mean I know the math is right but the only time you are ever going to see that is if your tire is wedged under a rock, not turning and you give it all the power you can. And if thats the case I don't know of much that would hold up.

when was the last time that someone designed something to meet "most of the time wheeling" ?


best i can come up with is the "super 35 kit"