2004 Dodge 1-Ton front and rear axles would they work?

coldforge

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fort Lewis,WA
(2004 Dodge 1-Ton Single Wheel, 4X4 Disc Brake Front & Rear End, Complete With Rotors Calipers.) Would that work on a Jeep cherokee? He is asking 1200 for both is that to much?
 
Lets go old school on this one. ANY axle can be made work. If you willing to do the work and put up with a little to a LOT of BS,
Craw under your XJ and measure everything! wheel to wheel, perch to perch, wheel well spacing etc. Then do the same on the pickup AND WRIGHT IT ALL DOWN. Don't forget the steering too.
Then get with a beer or two and make a list (yes more wrigthing) of reason why it would not work.
Then come up with some real fixs for you list above,
You can then come ask for help armed with real world numbers and some idea of the parts you have on hand. This kind of smarts will help you see right thru the just plain BS and the good intension but bad inform that is always found on the net.
Then ask your self can I do it cheaper, easer stronger etc some other way?
If you do make the swap. Take lot of pixs, make parts numbers handy as you post how YOU made it work.
LUCK
OK the short anser. maybe
 
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Well that's the worst Dana 60 you can buy (low pinion, balljoint, unit bearing) and the rear end is probably the AAM 11.5 (very beefy but huge pumpkin). It wouldn't bolt onto an XJ but all you'd need is brackets.
 
I think they're driver's side drop. Not sure on the front D60, I thought both ends went AAM, not just the rear axle.

As far as the "worst D60" goes.... dude, he's putting it under an XJ. An XJ's entire drivetrain weighs less than a CTD engine block. I doubt he'll overstress it.
 
lol yeah true, but 1200 is that worth it? i live in washington so theres a crap load of axles off of craigslist. i was going to buy a built one but i want to learn and it would be cheaper. ALSO lincoln had the best 9 inch right? i can get the housing for $200. what about a dana 60 cut to scout length never been ran for $800 doesn't have the number of the length. And i can't call him form Iraq lol
 
I think they're driver's side drop. Not sure on the front D60, I thought both ends went AAM, not just the rear axle.

As far as the "worst D60" goes.... dude, he's putting it under an XJ. An XJ's entire drivetrain weighs less than a CTD engine block. I doubt he'll overstress it.

It dosen't really matter what he's putting the axle under. If it is a Dodge 60 it is the worst possible 60 that you can buy. They have constant problems with the balll joints and no unit bearing likes to be driven hard/jumped. (and i'm pretty sure that he's not gonna put 31's on tons. If he throws a set of 38's on that 60 the ball joints will be the weak link.

I'd look for an 80's King Pin Ford 60 and a rear 60/14 bolt and build those. It'll be more expensive but the axles (especially the front) will be stronger.
 
I'm not 100% sure that frontend is even a 60, I think they started using the AAM 9.25 in those years?

Either way, both are not worth $1200 to you. For that money, you should definitely be able to find an older HP60 that utilizes kingpins (FWIW I bought mine complete for $200 after searching on craigslist for about a month) for two main reasons:

1. Easier to go high steer
2. Stronger

You should also be able to find a suitable rear axle (be it a HD60, D70 or 14B) to match the width you want up front for cheap as well.

Yes the newer Dodge D60s are not as strong, but there are people who run ball joint D60s with success. They can probably be had for much cheaper, but the only way I'd run one is if it was close to free. You can also delete the vacuum disco by converting to a one piece shaft and can upgrade it to 35-spline inners.

Also, the unit bearings on these are MUCH larger and designed to work under MUCH higher stresses and weight loads than the puny D30 unit bearings. That said, the factory bearings were just replaced on my '01 CTD a short while ago and it has 90k on it. Not bad considering the front end of the truck probably weighs as much as an XJ.

To sum it up, they're not worth that kind of money to you.
 
You can also try and find one of those GM CUCV trucks and pull the axles from that, should have a D60/14B, rear will be locked and possibly the front.
 
GM60s are pass side drop.

Not that you can't use them, you just need a different transfer case setup than stock.

Vetteboy on here runs one, and some others on Pirate4x4 as well. Do a search on there.
 
78-79 ford D60 from a snowfighter or a camper special= win

they have a longer drivers side tube than modt driver drop 60s so you dont need to mount the coil buckets to the cast center section
 
ok guys, i found a front dana 60 and a rear dana 60 cut down to 62 from wheel to wheel i know the cherokee is 61. Would 62 make any big probelms? guy is asking 900 for both. The rear end needs the ends welded on
 
They will actually help if you are lifted. You may need to check local regulations if your tires go out past the flair, some states won't dig it. Mechanically, no problem - weld in the mounts and run em.
 
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