The replacement sensors are also not slotted. I've posted pictures of how it should be done (similar in style to an ANL fuse,) to make things simple for you. If you're going to play about with it in the garage, you may as well slot your sensor before you put it back - saves you trouble next time, since you don't have to remove the screws to get it out. Slot the replacement sensor
now, so you're not stuck figuring out how to do it
later.
One of the best tools I've got I found entirely by chance - I have a 3/8" socket wrench extension that runs about 30" long. I paid ten bucks for it, and it's saved me several hours so far! It pretty much lives with an 11m/m "flex socket" on the end (the only job I really use it for is swapping out the CKP,) so I can just grab it when I need it. It lives right next to the long heavy screwdriver that weights the new sensor down as I snug up the screws.
I doubt the screws were changed over the years - so yours will probably accept a 7/16" or 11m/m wrench as well (as you probably already know, they're essentially the same size anyhow.)
Do not lose those screws! They're a sort of "extended shoulder" screw, and the grip is oversized and locates the sensor. There's just enough freeplay that if you didn't have the shoulder, you'd probably end up chewing the sensor up on the trigger notches on the flywheel. (Forewarned is forearmed. Although, I often find that
fourarms would be more useful...
)
I highly suggest using a "flex" socket - socket with an inbuilt universal joint - for this job and for manifold screws. The extra inch of clearance you gain over the socket/universal joint combination will save your hair...
The first time, you'll probably have to remove the screws entirely. Pack the socket with grease, so you don't drop the screws into the bellhousing (it isn't guaranteed to work, but it's much better than nothing.)
