2000 xj Where to start

[gjones5252]

Hello, In an effort to avoid posting a question that has been asked a thousand times I have read many online forums but still have so many questions.
I am coming from a side-by-side and used this as our family's main offroading and adventure vehicle in Arizona (Polaris Ranger Crew). It was amazing all the places we could get into but the vehicle is not exactly what we wanted and I felt like we were pushing it for off-road use. We would bottom out due to the length of the vehicle and clearance across the entire thing was 13.5". Due to length and tipyness we felt uneasy on some off-camber stuff.

Fast forward we have sold that and purchased a 2000 XJ. We have taken it out and it was amazing but still not capable of where the SXS was. It's nice to have AC though!
I would like to get where we were with the SXS-rides much rougher in comparison, has lower clearance (but only under the differentials), and no locking differentials were obvious. We would like to have a reliable vehicle that can get us into spots we used to be able to go as well as further. I would like to keep a low center of gravity.
Things I would like to do- and the part I need recommendations on
Front and rear lockers (it has Dana 30, 8.25)
32-33" tires, currently on 30.
Suspension upgrades- not sure where to go here, some say long arm front/back, others say long arm in the rear is useless. Looking at BDS and Iron Rock offroad 4".
I think I should do frame stiffeners first.

Comfortable with welding (mostly). Let me know what other information is needed.

If anyone can provide any guidance it would be greatly appreciated! Sorry if it sounds like I don't know what I am talking about its because I don't!

Jones

 

[Ol Blue]

So basically you want to make your XJ as comfortable and capable as a SXS? Yikes, good luck.

First I don't think you could ever make an XJ (or any solid axle Jeep) as comfortable as a SXS. They are purpose built machines for being comfortable off road with independent suspension and crazy amounts of travel. They also don't need to be street legal or drive on the highway so body roll and handling at highway speeds aren't a concern. You can spend as much as you want on long arms and coilovers but its still a solid axle Jeep at the end of the day...

As for capability you can do that but SXS will always have a major advantage being small and light. Lockers, winch, and 33s will make the XJ pretty capable.

As far as lockers, I will only ever consider Eaton E-Lockers, ARB Air lockers, or Detroit lockers. The E-lockers and ARBs are selectable which is fantastic on road but adds a good deal of complexity and an additional failure point off road. Detroit's are strong and will always work but on road manners will suffer. I suppose its personal preference. Don't mess with lunchbox lockers. Road manners suck and they aren't near as strong. If you want something mechanical and automatic, go Detroit.

Frame stiffeners are always a good idea if you are beating on it. Don't think brand really matters, its all personal preference. I used Dirtbound Offroad for the rears, CFM Industries for mids, and DB Metalworx for the front. They all work fine and get the job done.

 

[Anak]

I support the frame stiffeners to get started. Good to have a foundation to build on.

On the lockers front, I love my OX-locker. The folks who have trouble with them generally do so because they didn't take the time to run the cable properly. Here is how I ran my cable. It has been seven years since then and it has continued to work flawlessly. That said, running a cable for the front locker is probably not a good idea. Go air or electric for the front.

If you want to run 33s, I would say go for long arms up front. As you look at long arms, pay close attention to the design of the crossmember and whether or not it will allow you to drop the transmission without removing the long arms. I know SFR is one company that offers a good crossmember.

You have not mentioned brakes, but with the larger tires will come a need for better brakes. Look into the WJ brake conversion. Look into that early because it tends to require at least 16" wheels. If you get heavily invested in a set of 15" wheels/tires you may find you have ruled out the WJ brakes before you even got around to thinking about them.

 

[gjones5252]

So basically you want to make your XJ as comfortable and capable as a SXS? Yikes, good luck.

First I don't think you could ever make an XJ (or any solid axle Jeep) as comfortable as a SXS. They are purpose built machines for being comfortable off road with independent suspension and crazy amounts of travel. They also don't need to be street legal or drive on the highway so body roll and handling at highway speeds aren't a concern. You can spend as much as you want on long arms and coilovers but its still a solid axle Jeep at the end of the day...

As for capability you can do that but SXS will always have a major advantage being small and light. Lockers, winch, and 33s will make the XJ pretty capable.

As far as lockers, I will only ever consider Eaton E-Lockers, ARB Air lockers, or Detroit lockers. The E-lockers and ARBs are selectable which is fantastic on road but adds a good deal of complexity and an additional failure point off road. Detroit's are strong and will always work but on road manners will suffer. I suppose its personal preference. Don't mess with lunchbox lockers. Road manners suck and they aren't near as strong. If you want something mechanical and automatic, go Detroit.

Frame stiffeners are always a good idea if you are beating on it. Don't think brand really matters, its all personal preference. I used Dirtbound Offroad for the rears, CFM Industries for mids, and DB Metalworx for the front. They all work fine and get the job done.

Haha thanks for getting my goals aligned. I had the much rougher version and not the SXS that offers insane travel. I do want to avoid the tacoma that i had where it was miserable off-road other than forest service roads. Each bump on that was rough. The jeep as it is now with a rough country lift on it(the way i bought it) is miles better than that.
Thank you for the input on the lockers. I have struggled to find a good resource for that.
Awesome I'll look at those brands for stiffeners.

 

[gjones5252]

I support the frame stiffeners to get started. Good to have a foundation to build on.

On the lockers front, I love my OX-locker. The folks who have trouble with them generally do so because they didn't take the time to run the cable properly. Here is how I ran my cable. It has been seven years since then and it has continued to work flawlessly. That said, running a cable for the front locker is probably not a good idea. Go air or electric for the front.

If you want to run 33s, I would say go for long arms up front. As you look at long arms, pay close attention to the design of the crossmember and whether or not it will allow you to drop the transmission without removing the long arms. I know SFR is one company that offers a good crossmember.

You have not mentioned brakes, but with the larger tires will come a need for better brakes. Look into the WJ brake conversion. Look into that early because it tends to require at least 16" wheels. If you get heavily invested in a set of 15" wheels/tires you may find you have ruled out the WJ brakes before you even got around to thinking about them.

Ok, thank you. I have heard an advantage of those style lockers as you can always get the system still running even if the cable stops working off-road. Good to hear you have had a good experience.
I think the BDS does not allow you to drop the transmission but the Iron rock seems to have the ability to unbolt the midsection. What is the advantage of long arms in the rear? Iron rocks kit seems to have them, whereas the BDS does not. I have read different view points and they seem to always contradict each other.
Looks like I need to do the frame stiffeners, WJ brake conversion, and then the suspension parts.
It looks liek the Currectlync Steering system is reviewed well and has a good reputation as well unless you all have a recommendation for another direction.

​

 

[Unclewolverine]

A 2000 you say? Start with a can of gas and a match, lol. 00-01s are the most problem prone xjs. Make sure you check to see if the head has been replaced and be aware that random electrical gremlins will pop up often and can leave you stranded. Just a heads up.

 

[RCP Phx]

A 2000 you say? Start with a can of gas and a match, lol. 00-01s are the most problem prone xjs. Make sure you check to see if the head has been replaced and be aware that random electrical gremlins will pop up often and can leave you stranded. Just a heads up.

I've owned mine since I bought it new off the lot, and other than the head issue I've never had any other issues of any kind!!!

OP, I had a brand new sxs try to crawl with me last year and I left him on the trail with a burnt clutch!

 

[Tim_MN]

Set a budget, and define your goals.

My budget was extremely tight and I wanted capability for the big woods of Minnesota, and the rocks of Moab. I needed sturdy and reliable because at the time my XJ was also my daily driver. Most of my lift kit was scrounged from the junkyard, or bought used.

I swapped in a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, a high pinion XJ D30 and installed a used RE 3.5" short arm lift for a set of used 31" BFG M/T's. The rear axle got a PowerTrax No-Slip and the front got a Lock Right. I built my own rock rails and front bumper for about $130. I bought a DIY weld it yourself rear bumper. After a few years I installed control arm drop brackets, coil spring spacers, and longer rear shackles for 5.5" of lift.

While not ideal, it still has the stock steering and no frame stiffeners. Frame stiffeners are the to-do list, but not having them doesn't keep me off the 4x4 trails. Several times I have driven 1,280 miles to Moab, spend the week at Fall Fling, and driven 1,280 miles home. Monday after that I drove to work.

0331 head failure can happen, but is not that common.

.


.

 

[Anak]

It looks liek the Currectlync Steering system is reviewed well and has a good reputation as well unless you all have a recommendation for another direction.

​

The Currie Currectlync steering would not be the choice to make if doing the WJ brake conversion. If you go WJ you also do a complete steering revamp, converting to crossover steering and high-steering. Both of those (crossover and high-steer) are upgrades over the Currie Currectlync. The Currectlync steering remains inverted Y and low steering. It is an improvement over stock, but not as good as what can be accomplished with the WJ swap. The WJ swap gets you better brakes and better steering all at once. If you do not want to do the WJ swap then the Currie Currectlync and a set of Black Magic pads would be your most likely path for improved steering and brakes.

Do your research into both paths. The WJ swap can be done a number of different ways. There are two caliper designs, several options for rotors and several options for rod ends/TREs. It is going to take a while to get your mind wrapped around the choices and their ramifications.

 

[gjones5252]

Set a budget, and define your goals.

My budget was extremely tight and I wanted capability for the big woods of Minnesota, and the rocks of Moab. I needed sturdy and reliable because at the time my XJ was also my daily driver. Most of my lift kit was scrounged from the junkyard, or bought used.

I swapped in a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, a high pinion XJ D30 and installed a used RE 3.5" short arm lift for a set of used 31" BFG M/T's. The rear axle got a PowerTrax No-Slip and the front got a Lock Right. I built my own rock rails and front bumper for about $130. I bought a DIY weld it yourself rear bumper. After a few years I installed control arm drop brackets, coil spring spacers, and longer rear shackles for 5.5" of lift.

While not ideal, it still has the stock steering and no frame stiffeners. Frame stiffeners are the to-do list, but not having them doesn't keep me off the 4x4 trails. Several times I have driven 1,280 miles to Moab, spend the week at Fall Fling, and driven 1,280 miles home. Monday after that I drove to work.

0331 head failure can happen, but is not that common.

.


.

I have no intention on doing what you have done with that jeep! At least regularly. There were a few times that I was caught down the wrong trail and had to make it out of there. It looks like you still have stock fenders on the wheel wells? we went on just a little basic drive and we popped one of those off so easily how are you doing all that and not rubbing? Maybe something is not aligned well on mine. Thank you for the input.

 

[gjones5252]

The Currie Currectlync steering would not be the choice to make if doing the WJ brake conversion. If you go WJ you also do a complete steering revamp, converting to crossover steering and high-steering. Both of those (crossover and high-steer) are upgrades over the Currie Currectlync. The Currectlync steering remains inverted Y and low steering. It is an improvement over stock, but not as good as what can be accomplished with the WJ swap. The WJ swap gets you better brakes and better steering all at once. If you do not want to do the WJ swap then the Currie Currectlync and a set of Black Magic pads would be your most likely path for improved steering and brakes.

Do your research into both paths. The WJ swap can be done a number of different ways. There are two caliper designs, several options for rotors and several options for rod ends/TREs. It is going to take a while to get your mind wrapped around the choices and their ramifications.

Ok awesome. Ill look into this. It stops pretty well with the current brakes I have on but i am also doing pretty basic slow city driving and one off-road trip so far.
Ill have to look more into here and Youtube university about how to do that and if it is something i can do with my limited skillset.
It seems like each time i find a good choice i get to another choice in the road!! Thanks for the help

 

[RCP Phx]

Set a budget, and define your goals!

.


.

 

[gjones5252]

I've owned mine since I bought it new off the lot, and other than the head issue I've never had any other issues of any kind!!!

OP, I had a brand new sxs try to crawl with me last year and I left him on the trail with a burnt clutch!

You seem to have my identical Jeep just you already have all the cool stuff done to it! I will probably hit you up with a few questions if that alright! also, we are both in Phoenix so double win.

 

[75SV1]

While you don't have to do the cross over steering on the WJ Big Brakes, you'd be missing out. Frame Stiffeners and WJ BB with GM 1-ton cross over steering really helps an XJ handle. I do have a 2000 XJ. Really like some of the factory upgrades over the '98s. Also, cross over steering would require OTK trackbar and extended swaybar link.

 

[Tim_MN]

I have no intention on doing what you have done with that jeep!

How about something more like my 1998? 2-3 inches of lift and 30x9.5x15's. Replacement front coils, an add a leaf in the stock rear spring pack, an adjustable track-bar, and longer shocks. Also built with lightly used parts or parts I traded work for.

.

 

[gjones5252]

How about something more like my 1998? 2-3 inches of lift and 30x9.5x15's. Replacement front coils, an add a leaf in the stock rear spring pack, an adjustable track-bar, and longer shocks. Also built with lightly used parts or parts I traded work for.

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That’s clean looking. I am still trying to figure that out right now. I bought this mostly as a replacement as a side by side. I hated that there were places that my side by side couldn’t get to. It also got to plenty of places that I shouldn’t have taken it. I was pushing its limits.
I would say I am relatively close to where I am with my current setup with an identical Jeep to yours. Maybe not as good parts or missing some rear upgrades but close.
I go into some relatively backwoods areas in Arizona to do my hobbies. I would rather overbuild this and feel more confident on trails than under build.

 

[Tim_MN]

A small amount of lift, good tires, and locking differentials makes a huge improvement in the XJ's off-road capabilities.

Don't forget skid plates.

 

[gjones5252]

A small amount of lift, good tires, and locking differentials makes a huge improvement in the XJ's off-road capabilities.

Don't forget skid plates.

Do you have any recommendations on a skid plate brand?
I am looking at a few options for the rock sliders I will either build my own or I found one that welds into the panels under the door.

 

[RCP Phx]

Do you have any recommendations on a skid plate brand?
I am looking at a few options for the rock sliders I will either build my own or I found one that welds into the panels under the door.

I think you would be interested in mine, I make all my own bumpers, rails.

 

[RCP Phx]

Here's a set I built for my Cheromanche......... https://naxja.org/threads/gen-ii-sliders.901851/