2 questions....gears/lift

denali_on_26's

NAXJA Forum User
Location
in your bushes
question 1
what gears should i run? it is an auto with a 4.0.... THIS IS NOT A DD!!!
i like to play in the mud and the ole' cheap just don't have enough power to push the 33" boggers like i want it to....

i was thinking about a set of 4.88 yukon gears....but some one told me that the pinion would be to small or something like that and it would break easily.... so should i go with 4.56, 4.88, or lower?
what are ya'll running with 33's/35's (possible might go 35's in the future but most likely not)

question 2
i have a RE 4.5" extreme flex with short arms and i would like about 2" more of lift in the front.... how high can you go with short arms? could i put 2" coil spacers?
 
denali_on_26's said:
question 1
what gears should i run? it is an auto with a 4.0.... THIS IS NOT A DD!!!
i like to play in the mud and the ole' cheap just don't have enough power to push the 33" boggers like i want it to....

i was thinking about a set of 4.88 yukon gears....but some one told me that the pinion would be to small or something like that and it would break easily.... so should i go with 4.56, 4.88, or lower?
what are ya'll running with 33's/35's (possible might go 35's in the future but most likely not)

question 2
i have a RE 4.5" extreme flex with short arms and i would like about 2" more of lift in the front.... how high can you go with short arms? could i put 2" coil spacers?

1. if your even thinking about 35's i would just go with 4.88's

2. If you add 2" of lift i would put on some RE CA Drop brackets since you already have UCA/LCA's. Unless of course you were willing to put some LA's on.

-Kyle
 
THIS IS WHY I WANT 2 MORE INCHES OF LIFT IN THE FRONT
plus the back is higher and i don't like the way it looks
also this is not fully flexed it still has about 3 inche more to go but tires hit fenders if they are not turned.....lol

xj046.jpg

xj049.jpg

xj048.jpg

xj043.jpg

xj050.jpg

XJ032.jpg
 
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101355 Read this. There are alot of FAQ's in the FAQ forum and good stickies at the top of this forum. Also use the search function, it works wonders..

you can solve the rubbing problem with bumpstops and some cutting on those virgin fenders. be aware that the dana 35 in the rear is a time bomb..wouldnt bother regearing that. Probably be useful to find a different rear end, D44, 8.8, etc.
 
Cut your fenders. Get drop brackets if you decide to lift it. Don't put money into a D35, upgrade your axle. Be prepared to spend way more money to go up to 35's. Brakes, steering, control arms, SYE, axles, etc...
 
first of all i have cut my finders and then put the stock flares back on i would say i cut a good 3-4 inches off the finders and beat everything that was close to the fire wall in with a big hammer.... i would like to lift it in the front for 3 reasons
1) more clearence
2) because the back is higher
3) i want the front lever or higher than the back

also why is the 35 a time bomb? how much is a new/used 44 or 8.8? will the drive shaft that i already have work?

and i also have a SYE already too but i don't need it for the hight i am there is not vibrations

ps. i love my sawzall just don't wanna make it look stupid
 
remove a leafs or 2 from the back to level it out..i have about an inch more lift, and im going to run 36s and dont see a problem with it. embrace the anglegrinder/dremel. ive never seen a sawzall give a good fender cutting.

if you dont know why the 35 is a ticking time bomb, then do a little reading before you start jumping into gears. i got my 8.8 for 225, 100 for perches, 250 for a locker, about 160 for yukon 5:13s, and install kit. i really like that rear, and ive got a couple other of my buddies building them now
 
denali_on_26's said:
first of all i have cut my finders and then put the stock flares back on i would say i cut a good 3-4 inches off the finders and beat everything that was close to the fire wall in with a big hammer.... i would like to lift it in the front for 3 reasons
1) more clearence
2) because the back is higher
3) i want the front lever or higher than the back

also why is the 35 a time bomb? how much is a new/used 44 or 8.8? will the drive shaft that i already have work?

and i also have a SYE already too but i don't need it for the hight i am there is not vibrations

ps. i love my sawzall just don't wanna make it look stupid

the d35 is just an inferior axle especially for us offroad enthuiasts who put bigger tires on which cause more pressure on the axle. Before doing any gear work get a stronger axle c8.25/44/8.8 (can be had for 100-400$ depending)

-Kyle
 
Just in the process of lifting my XJ, 3.5" RE on front, 4.5" on rear. Not got new rubber yet but i was thinking about re gearing.

But after the following statement i'm a bit confused!

the d35 is just an inferior axle especially for us offroad enthuiasts who put bigger tires on which cause more pressure on the axle. Before doing any gear work get a stronger axle c8.25/44/8.8

How do I identify those axles? What vehicles are the specific too, and will I find one in the UK?:eyes:
 
Geordiewolf said:
Just in the process of lifting my XJ, 3.5" RE on front, 4.5" on rear. Not got new rubber yet but i was thinking about re gearing.

But after the following statement i'm a bit confused!

the d35 is just an inferior axle especially for us offroad enthuiasts who put bigger tires on which cause more pressure on the axle. Before doing any gear work get a stronger axle c8.25/44/8.8

How do I identify those axles? What vehicles are the specific too, and will I find one in the UK?:eyes:

if you have ABS there is a 90% chance you have a d35.
d35 looks like this.
http://www.jeepforum.com/wiki/index.php/Dana_35

-Kyle
 
dana 35 will have an oval cover with dana stamped in it, the dana 44 will have more of a diamond shaped cover( i guess thats how you would describe it) and the ford 8.8 is more of a square cover. you could also look into a ford 9"
 
rosco said:
I would like someone to explain the 4.88 pinion strength issue as that is the ratio I will be running in my D30/D44 on 33's


The 4.88 hp30 gears only have 2 teeth on the pinion engaged at a time, vs the 3+ other ratios have. I run the 4.88 gears with 35's and *flog* my jeep, havent had a problem yet.

People break 4.56 gears just as much as 4.88's, I'm sure there is a strength difference but I do not believe enough of one to make it a decision changer.
 
The weak 4.88 - D30 puny gear debate continues....here's the deal....if you are determined, you can break ANYTHING. Yes the teeth are smaller, yes, blah blah blah....you have a decision to make...either put suitable gears in the 30 and run it or upgrade it to something $tronger...for MUDDING if you use common sense, you can use the 30 just fine...that means no revving the engine and dumping the clutch with those Boggers on there...its the SHOCK that breaks gears, and the tranny is as likely to break as anything else. If you roll into the mud and then gassit as required you will most likely be fine. If the tires are spinning you are ok...if you are spinning and the tire hooks up things break.... And stop when you are stuck and get out the strap or winch...

I know a lot of guys that have 30's in the front on mud racers...mucho horsepower...but usually skinnier tires...that have no trouble...I bash the crap outta my Heep with 4.88s on 33 TSLs have have no axle trouble (other than the mud related eating stuff up issues) and I have run mine with nitrous.

If on the other hand you want to try some serious rock crawling or like to do 4wd burnouts in the mall parking lot, or other deviant :jester: behavior...refer to "The determined can break anything"

Or you can take the preventative replacement approch and install a set of Rockwells...if you can break those with a 4.0 and a 231 I'll call you Mister.

Final thought: Mud is for those that ain't skeered to git DIRTY!
 
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