1998 XJ pulling a 6x12 cargo trailer

[travy25]

Nice little community you have here, not sure why I never found this place before. My rig is a 1998 Cherokee Sport 4.0L w/towing package w/tranny cooler class III 5000 lb hitch. Pretty much stock, stock tires, gearing, no lift etc..

I just bought a 6x12 cargo trailer (1300 lbs empty, 3000-3500 lbs loaded). I figure I got about 2000 lbs of crap to put in it. After reading through some of the related threads I feel I'm already taking the righ steps. I bought a transmission cooler to add in-line to the existing one and some add a leafs for the back to help support the weight. I've also had a lot of routine stuff done, like tranny flush, chassis grease etc..

I've heard to keep in 3rd all the time, will it be fine to use 4th on flat ground if it isn't constantly downshifting to keep up? Just trying to save a little on gas if I can, I expect to get pretty poor mileage pulling 3000 lbs.

Also, anybody have any other suggestions? This is going to be about a 2800 mile journey so I'm trying to be thorough. Thanks.

 

[xj-grin]

downhill braking will be a bit sketchy with that kind of weight behind you, unless your trailer has electric brakes. Lower gearing would help to get it rolling. It sounds like you have the pulling covered, but getting started/stopped is every bit as important...

 

[travy25]

Will I be okay if I give myself lots of room and take it easy on the downhills? Also, are there affordable trailer brake systems that would be pretty simple to install?

 

[POSJ]

travy you aren't by chance stationed at mccord and PCSing are you?

 

[travy25]

Negative, I am a civilian. I am close to there though. Tacoma, driving back home to Alaska!

 

[POSJ]

Just wondering why you would be driving that far. Fairbanks? They have a great bunch of guys up there in Arctic Offroad, you should get in with them and start wheeling your XJ. Back on topic. That drive is a killer I wouldn't tow that much weight with an XJ over those mountains, I would definatly get a trailer brake if you have your heart set on it though. Make sure your brake system is in perfect condition or you might have a bad 3-4 days.

 

[travy25]

The brakes have been redone, new rotors and pads. Trailer brake setups, where can I find a good deal?

We're expecting a slow trip, 4-5 days. Going to take it really easy.

 

[POSJ]

Personaly I would just buy a decent one off the internet and install it myself. Once you get it installed, take your empty trailer on a gravel road and lock it up fulling to verify it works before you load it up and can't control it.

 

[RCP Phx]

The trailer has to have brakes on it now,a conversion could be expensive.There is no way you can safely tow that weight without them(unless you can get the Highway patrol to clear the road for you),otherwise you might be the one clearing the road!

 

[travy25]

The GVWR for the trailer is 2990 lbs so I won't be loading it any more than that. If trailer brakes are required then I'm screwed. Also, since I'm driving through Canada it all needs to be legit.

 

[jcshaney]

look inside the wheel on the trailer if you see a brake drum than it has trailer brakes if all you see is a hub than the is no trailer brakes. if it has trailer brakes all you need is a brake controler and wire it in

 

[Ronbo]

My camp trailer weighs 1250lbs, with a max GVWR of 2995lbs and no trailer brakes. I don't normally tow it with the XJ, but I have and it doesn't have any issues. That's assuming you load the trailer properly weighted on the tongue, and the trailer is not a POS, and tracks well down the road.
One common issue I see on many small trailers is crappy tires. Not worn out, just cheapo brands with bad reps. It's worth stepping up to a name brand, cause a blowout could ruin your day.

 

[travy25]

Noted, thanks for the feedback guys. There are NO drums, just hubs. The place I bought the trailer also installs electronic trailer brakes with the drums, bearings, wiring, controller etc...

I'm still hemming and hawing. I've talked to a lot of experienced people and half are saying to just go for it as is and it'll be just fine and half say install brakes just to be safe. $600 installed to add the brakes. They would be nice, but if it will be okay without I'd rather keep the gas money if you know what I mean.

 

[joe_peters]

Noted, thanks for the feedback guys. There are NO drums, just hubs. The place I bought the trailer also installs electronic trailer brakes with the drums, bearings, wiring, controller etc...

I'm still hemming and hawing. I've talked to a lot of experienced people and half are saying to just go for it as is and it'll be just fine and half say install brakes just to be safe. $600 installed to add the brakes. They would be nice, but if it will be okay without I'd rather keep the gas money if you know what I mean.

Your choice. The surest way would be adding the brakes. You can probably get by if you stay alert, downshift on the grades to let the engine help with the braking, and leave extra, extra room between you and the vehicles you are following.

My biggest concern would be an unexpected sharp curve--you hit the brakes hard and that trailer is going to jackknife on you.

Good luck.