1997 XJ, Coil-Over Project - Walker Evans Racing Shocks

BrettM said:


Click for larger picture. I don't have the control box sealed up and ready to go yet.

And is that suposed to atach to the stock steering wheel? What years? Air bag?
Looks sweet, just don't see it in a late model.
 
XJJack said:
And is that suposed to atach to the stock steering wheel? What years? Air bag?
Looks sweet, just don't see it in a late model.
check out the website for details. that one will not fit any vehicle without some fabrication, which Priandhi is more than capable of doing. If you want one that will bolt right up, it's gonna cost a lot more. Though I am working on getting something together that will be priced more like the first and be easier to install and adapt to a multitude of vehicles.

any questions after looking at the site, let me know [email protected]
 
XJJack said:
And is that suposed to atach to the stock steering wheel? What years? Air bag?
Looks sweet, just don't see it in a late model.
YES :woohoo::flame: ....,
It the FIRST DESIGN, that BrettM and I agreed on...

I am going to take off the existing steering wheel and replace it with
292-1.jpg

73386_73396_big-1.jpg
padl_fml.jpg
At the DASHBOARD, there will be FOUR LED lights, one light for each gear I am in, so when I am on the fourth geat, all LED will be on.

The PADDLE SHIFTER will be modified and installed at the back of the steering wheel...

Ask BrettM for details....
 
FINISHED Suspension Set-Up
  • Right Front -
  • See from front, right, under bumper
Fin-Fr-5.jpg

Note :
  • I'll need to adjust the wheel side-to-side lock bolt, so that it will limit side-to-side and not rubbing the sway-bar-arm.
  • I might need to shorten the Sway-bar-arm-linkage, as at ride height, the sway bar is pointing up-ward ???, but then again, the up-travel is only 2.5 inch....
  • OR, should I just leave it as it is ???
 
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Priandhi Satria said:
Would you be kind enough to show me other options as well....:smoker:
I have it listed on my site as an option, and it looks great, but be prepared to spend about $600, and it will still need my electronics in order to work with the vehicle: http://twistmachine.com/

ShrifterSport.jpg
 
BrettM said:
I have it listed on my site as an option, and it looks great, but be prepared to spend about $600, and it will still need my electronics in order to work with the vehicle: http://twistmachine.com/

ShrifterSport.jpg
Shrifter !!!


292-1.jpg
padl_fml.jpg
AWSHIFTING PADDLE STYLE
Yeah.... I visited their site 2 weeks ago, before talked to you.....

Lets see what you have come up with...., otherwise the "SHRIFTER" is just a phone call away...

Did you asked them whether we can purchase the "PADDLE" only without their electronics ?

Did you get "OUR" PADDLE on hand,... can you put a bigger picture ???
 
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Priandhi Satria said:
Yeah.... I visited their site 2 weeks ago, before talked to you.....

Lets see what you have come up with...., otherwise the "SHRIFTER" is just a phone call away...

Did you asked them whether we can purchase the "PADDLE" only without their electronics ?

Did you get "OUR" PADDLE on hand,... can you put a bigger picture ???
Their electronics are necessary and all they do is receive a signal from the paddle setup. You see they don't have any wires running down the steering column, but rather have the signal from the paddles sent to their electronics by radio waves.

Here is a bigger picture of the one we've been talking about using: http://awshifting.com/pictures/ShrifterSport.jpg
 
S T O P !!!
stop.jpg
angry.jpg

Priandhi Satria said:
  • RIGHT REAR WHEEL
Fin-rear-2.jpg
...
...
After trying for a couple of hours, it seems ;:flamemad:
  1. The lower control arms is not long enough compared to the upper arms.
  2. Almost identical axle mounting point for the upper and lower, as well as identical mounting point on the chasis.
  3. Distance / Angle of seperation on the axle is quite good, but on the chasis is to close between upper and lower, as well as same lenght.....
  4. This CREATE CONDITIONS ;
    1. for the REAR to RAISE a little bit under engine torque power. From Standing / Stop / Neutral start, if you put the transmission into DRIVE, then the rear will tend to raise a little bit.
    2. We tried to make it this long because of the space limitations, but NOW, it seems that we need to re do the lower control arm...:twak:
    3. I need to lenghten the lower arm a little bit (from what I heard on the RACE-DEZERT forum as well as when I built the lower link, the upper arms should be around .66% of the lower arm.
    4. Because of the same length (almost) and little of mounting seperations on the chasiss cause the car REAR of the car to RAISE under power.
    5. THE REAR should "SQUAD" or lower a little bit under power to be able to transmit the torque/power to tires. This wil also put more load on the rear tires and create better contact path/traction....
Not-good-2.jpg
 
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