1-3/4" x .120 control arms?

RWKHausSupply

NAXJA Forum User
I been reviewing the different front long arm systems out there as well as the ones that have been fabed here and come to the preliminary conclussion that the TNT system seems to be a good design for me and can be more simple to emulate and fab then 3 link w/trackbar system like some of the customs ones here.

Now my question is whats the opinion of those here on, if 1-3/4" x .120 DOM is thick enough for a radius lower link that will be slightly bent similier to the TNT lowers. then second if not DOM then should I or would it really even matter if I did 4130?

Reason for such a large size is that I am looking to run the teraflex moster joints
TER982.jpg

and they come in a 1-1/4 thread so that means with the insert it is a 1-1/2ID tube that it would fit inside of. I am only doing these at the frame/crossmember end and then doing a 2.5" currie or similier smaller end that will require a smaller tube.

So then comes the idea of only doing a say 10" length of 1-3/4x.120 then slipping a 1-1/2 x .25 into that and then running that out the rest of the way to the axle and having the bend in that piece.

any thoughts?

Oh and I would run the full TNT system but since all the crossmemeber bolts have been snapped off and theres no longer any threaded holes on the uni-rails and theres thier stiffners now there I am just going to have to fab a crossmember / skid anyways, so why not do the entire setup....
 
i dont know if .120 will be a thick enough wall.. unless im being stupid and thats not what it is. go with at least 1/4 inch dom. make sure they will be strong enough to be able to drag over any rocks with the weight of the engine ontop of them. i just checked them out on the site and they look alright. use thicker walled tubing tho
 
.120" wall is not thick enough for a lower link.
I used 2"X.25" seamless cromoly for my lower links...
picture.JPG

picture.JPG
 
ok so .250 wall then.but now the Q.. HOW the F do I bend that where I need a 10deg or so offset? lol
 
Lawn Cher' said:
Over Stupidfast's head.

I wouldn't want to ding up or crush the .250 wall tube THAT much!
 
well that is what I had in mind but was embaressed to say...
 
any local shop you can take it to? Might cost like $30 but at least you know it will get done and can be cheapeor than a bender than HF.
 
I would say 1.75"X.25" at the minimum depending on how much they hang down. If they hang down more you'll be dragging them more and they will bend sooner or later. With the bend in it I would either step up to a thicker 1.75" or go to a 2"x.25" minimum. I don't really think chromo is necissary but it does resist gouging better.

Doing shallow bends on thick wall tubing is fine on the HF bender. Keeping the radius wider will help some also.
 
I know a pro tools 105 bender with hydralics wouldn't touch bending 1 3/4" x.250 wall DOM...and it strained on te .188 wall. A hand bender may be the trick. the HF bender is made to bend pipe, it sorta deforms the tube but I think it would work.
 
well I have the 105HD but at protools they said good luck anything over .188 wall.

I will just use a HF cheapy that a friend has to distort/bend the .250wall just enough for what I need. It should be fine.
 
I've heard that packing the tube with sand helps when using a pipe bender. Supposedly keeps the tubing from deforming much if at all.

Jared:patriot:
 
tealcherokee said:
2"x2"x.25" square, less likey to bend


Sweet, you could carry one spare link, and it would work as a spare driveshaft as well!
 
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