Recent content by fordtech

Anyone have an idea how much those factory CD-changer boxes that go into the rear cubby are worth?? here is a pic... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/734091/1998-jeep-cherokee/page-3

Jeep has a broken piston skirt in cylinder 5 or 6. Will need repairs. General/Factory: 98, gunmetal blue, 130k mi, auto, pw, pl, pm, AC, 8.25 rear, roof rack with cross bars, sunroof, factory fogs, factory skids, drawtight rear hitch, factory tow wiring, factory front tow hooks. Suspension...

Please see the thread here: http://www.wnyoffroad.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9137 I will get some recent pictures up, and clean up my ramblings in the next few days. Please contact me at jeepinmike 'at' gmail 'dot' com or via private message. Thanks, Mike

If it does end up being parted, and the driver rear door is in good shape, I could use one in that color. I am in Buffalo NY, so I don't know how cost effective it would end up being for me. PM me if it goes that way. Thanks, Mike

I got some appropriate LCA's and redrilled for the track bar. I am at 4" total (3" Rusty's + spacers and MJ shackle), and it rides, drives, wheels great, gets 730 RTI on the ramp (if that matters!).

Damn, that has all the right parts to fix mine up... and the right color! If you do decide to part it, I have been looking for driver side doors and maybe a pass fr fender for mine...

I see you ordered a SYE... but the above is the correct answer to your question. You may get away with a shim or drop, but to do it correctly, you need to measure angles and see what will bring your driveline angles back into spec.

My flairs are herc'ed. I picked up a second set of flairs that were the factory painted style, scuffed them up good, few coats of herc, then some matte black paint when the last coat of herc was sticky. The matte was to better match the trim and protect from UV damage.... holding up great...

Thanks for the response, but Hartford may be a bit too far to go. Thanks again

A pretty specific request I know. As the title says, looking for some rust free, dent free (or practically rust and dent free) driver front and rear doors. Gunmetal blue preferred, but any color considered if the price is right. Pickup makes most sense....I am in Buffalo NY, and get out...

Typical 98 Sport- Auto, 3.55s + 31" STTs, skids, recovery points, some equipment in the rear, yakima load warrior rack, no front air dam, heavy right foot..... Dynomax cat-back, regular tune-ups, and Seafoam treatments, newer O2, massaged t-body. I get 12-13 city, not much better highway...

I ran doetsch on my yj.... seemed like a good shock at the time, soft and cheap. Sold the yj before they had alot of miles on them.

where is cow country? if i had the spare $$ I would be there.

I would swap in an EFI. Isn't that demon and intake more of a street car setup? I know the dual plane will help with torque. What cam is in it? I guess torque and hp down low is going to be great with a v-8 no matter, just wondering if you would target more of a truck/offroad build on that...

This is an 'old school trick' and if you have a healthy trans, it usually works out ok.....but I only have experience with older trannys..... th350, c4's, so on. Can't see why it would be different with an aw4.