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Last night (rain/sleet):
It happened several times over a 2 hour period. The clunk came from
"everywhere" - really weird. I did not switch to 4WD. I wasn't trying to
lock the wheels - but I did lay hard on the breaks. If I "eased" the breaks
it wouldn't repeat - but when I layed on them - CLUNK...
What the HAIL is going on?! Just started yesterday. When I break (hard) on a slippery surface (in 2WD) the whole truck CLUNKS ! Just about knocked the fillings out of my teeth. It breaks fine - but makes a terrible CLUNK. This morning on a dry surface is was fine - I couldn't make it CLUNK at...
This past week, on a trek to Nova Scotia, we had a chance to put
some real miles (about 2000) on the new tires. We traveled
everything from highways and dirt roads to beach tidal paths
(roads paved with basketball sized stones). The drive from New
Hampshire to Portland, ME was wonderful and...
I would first rule out the blower motor. The FSM suggests
unplugging the blower motor wiring connector, and then
operating the HVAC system normally. If the noise goes away -
the blower motor is unbalanced, mounted incorrectly, or is faulty.
Good luck!
Not too familiar with the R-12 system, but I noticed the newer
FSM shows a "blend door actuvator", and a feedback signal
coming back from the PCM. If you have a solinoid in there - I'd
take a peek at that. Maybe it's sticking or not getting the
feedback signal.........?
almost done......
Ok - I think I've got it figured out.
'01 FSM says the AC control request goes to PCM C3-23.
Can I assume that it dosn't matter if I put a switch (SPST)
before and after the splice to the A/C High Pressure
Switch. I would imagine that switch doesn't engage
until the...
absa-freakin-lootly
...up in the northeast we have bugs (in the early morning) so bad,
that if you didn't clean out you radiator at LEAST once a week
you'd be in big trouble. Sometimes my windshield looks like
someone hit it with buckets of brown and yellow paint. Not a
pretty sight. In NH we...
Yeah I'm in central NH - mapquest says 2577 miles (or about 38
hours). What are the logistics of driving from Jersey - I assume
you don't do a complete drive through. I'd consider it if I can talk
the GF into it........
Yes - I'm going to sit down some time this weekend with a couple
of cold ones and just familiarize myself with the entire wiring
system specifically the HVAC system. What "control head" are you
talking about - on the compressor maybe? Do you really think it's
a transparent change to interupt...
Flex-a-lite replacement
The Twin Line dual electric fan assembly (2 - 10" dia fans)
is rated at 1800 CFM, assuming 2500 rpm @ 13.5V, 15A. That's
at zero static pressure - at 60mph I'd guess you're doing better
then that.
On the safe side - 1000 CFM may have been a little optomistic
maybe more...
stuff to look at
No expert here - but here's a bunch of stuff to look at:
- is all of the air "burped" out of the coolant system
- is the fan clutch slipping
- is the thermostat working properly or is the housing gunked up
- is the aux fan (or sensor) working properly
- is the fan belt tight
-...
No - I'll sure I'll find it in my FSM, thanks.
Clever switching the relay coils. I'm going to give it a try.
I'd do just about anything to stop the compressor cycling
when all I want to do is circulate ambient air through the
defrost vents - especially on these dry cool New Hampshire
mornings.
Re: Never heard of that b 4-
Interesting. Is this switch simply across the power line to the
compressor? Do you remember the current rating of the switch?