NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association  

Go Back   NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association > NAXJA Chapters > NorthWest Chapter
HOME Member FAQ Sponsor Info Rules Bylaws E-Mail

NorthWest Chapter Discussion of Chapter issues. Please keep Tech Topics on the Tech Forums.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #46  
Old September 10th, 2015, 07:44
TMC-XJ's Avatar
TMC-XJ TMC-XJ is offline
NAXJA Forum User
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: one stoplight town, Idaho
Posts: 60
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Awesome build so far!

Great attention to detail. Nice work!
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old September 10th, 2015, 15:39
thesteveyo thesteveyo is offline
NAXJA Forum User
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Hillsburrito, OR
Posts: 56
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Awesome! I like how all of your mods are PNW functional. Lots of great ideas and inspiration!
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old October 1st, 2015, 22:35
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Thanks guys! I try to pay attention to the small details.

I've got a couple things out of the way this month, before it gets wet and cold for the winter.

The cowl intake, I wanted to try to mute the noise in the cab a bit, so I tried using spray "boom mat". The effects were negligible, but it gave me a chance to take everything apart and take pictures, since people have had questions how I put the silicone elbow in the cowl to help with noise.










Here is the attempt to mute the cowl more. I don't think it hurt anything but it really didn't help.
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old October 1st, 2015, 22:41
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Next on my list, my NP231 was bleeding fluid and the chain had lots of slack. I had a NP242, and I liked the 242 in my wife's Jeep. I had read about some mystical 242 on NAGCA that had a tom woods HD SYE AND the 1.25" chain of a 242HD, so I decided to make the strongest 242 possible.





I had a partial success. First, I tried using the 1.25 sprockets, but they interfered with the oil pmump engagment, then the tail housing on the HD has a different set of oil galleys, and the final straw was the pitch of the HD was 3/8" and the 242J is 1/2". I found that generally speaking longer pitched chains are stronger, and that the 242HD has a shorter pitch than a 242J. Then there's the type of hy-vo chain, some are rocker joint and some are pin joint. I found that the 242ECE has a stronger chain than the 242J from what little documentation I could find (and I also talked to an engineer who was familiar with inverted tooth chain), enough so that the 242ECE chain is stronger than the 1.25" chain in the 242HD. From what info I could find using a parts catalog, the sprockets are the same in the ECE and the J. One catch, the ECE chain is out of production, so I had to do some calling around to find one. All I had to do is ensure the chain had the same tooth contact pattern, and after that squeeze the whole thing back together.


Here is what a rocker jointed chain looks like.





A trick I found for stacking the needle bearings was to spray everything down with spray lithium as I went.



I warped the rear case half trying to replace the rear front output shaft bearing, so I picked up a new one on Amazon. I left the front case half submerged in degreaser for several days, and everything came out nice and clean.



I put everything back together with ATF rated RTV.






The size of the 242 compared to the 231, its impressive.


Length-wise it is exactly the same as the 231, but with the HD SYE, its actually shorter.


I am very happy with how it all bolted up.
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread

Last edited by xeroOTG; October 1st, 2015 at 23:17.
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old October 1st, 2015, 22:43
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

I had to do some custom work for the shifter and the electrical.


This is the boostwerks 242 shifter. I had to cut the allthread so the whole thing was short enough and notch the end of the shift handle extension.

C107 (one of the main harnesses on the passenger side of the block) needs pin 13 added. I carefully depinned c107 on the donor, and moved the wiring to my manual transmission harness.






Its hard to tell, but I spliced the 242 harness part-time wire and ground into the manual transmission harness. If you do this, be sure to use waterproof heatshrink.

The result was priceless



If you want the research I did about chains and the differences between a 242HD, 242ECE, and a 242J, look here.
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old October 1st, 2015, 23:06
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Work has been stressful, so I took a day off to do the rest of my stiffeners.

The hardest part? Pulling the transmission cross member studs. After that it was about 8 hours of work in all, including prep, welding, and painting.


I test-fit the stiffeners, and marked the areas to be cleaned for welding. I used a knotted wire cup to clean off the undercoating.


Specfab (Adam) had a neat trick he was telling me about to get a tighter fit, Lay a hot tack and while its still red hot, smack the stiffener with a mallet. Proceed to complete the bead, and it will be a good fit. It worked.


I used automotive seam sealer, let that cure for a while, and then put down some POR15 Chassis Coat that I picked up at the Moonshiners swap meet in Puyallup. I got it for $5 a can, I didn't realize that stuff usually goes for $25. What a steal!



I keep hearing that by welding the complete perimeter of the stiffener I will have weakened my unibody. Time will tell, as I welded this whole area solid due to a nice dent in the unibody keeping things from sitting flush. If it folds like a taco, then I'll just have to move everything to a new Jeep.

I used the Iron Rock Offroad set, and after talking to Adam he was thinking they might have been 10 gauge. I threw my micrometer on the mid section, they are a true 3/16ths. The front however are thinner at 8 gauge which isn't much thinner. I am exceptionally happy with the quality and fit. Between the 242 being nice and tight and the stiffeners, I cant believe how quiet and well the Jeep drives! I have put about 300 miles on them this week, and on the highway they have solved my road noise problems. I will be testing them out this weekend with some friends from work out in Liberty, I'll let yall know how it goes.
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread

Last edited by xeroOTG; October 1st, 2015 at 23:20.
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old March 22nd, 2016, 23:18
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Hey guys, not a lot has happened over the past couple months. The only things I have done since October is wheel and replace my steering box. In the process I broke the secondary battery tray (convenient) and unfortunately the drain on my power steering box. For anyone who cares, a reservoir from a 91-96 XJ fits a 97+ power steering pump. Not sure why NAPA says otherwise, an o-ring was the only difference.

I fabricated up a new battery tray for the pc1200 using an Artec Industries OY1201. It turned out pretty nice, used only factory holes for the new bracket.





I went out to Walker valley, its pretty torn up. I left with some body damage and spent more time winching myself or the rest of the group than having fun.




I rubbed up against a stump twice the size of my Jeep.

In other news, my wife and I have been trying to buy a house. I hate this market. We have written 7 offers since January 1st and lost to cash on all of them.

I'm working on a TDI swap. My 4.0 has started to consume oil, and frankly I'm bored with stock. A stroker just isn't appealing to me. Its been a fairly complicated project, including buying an engine from Victoria, BC (BEW, it was blown) and now parting it out to finance the next part of the project (BHW and a GTC1549VZ is the plan so far). I completely reverse engineered the TDI CANBUS protocol and I'm working with another guy to build a replacement gauge cluster PCB. Is anyone interested in how that's going?
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old March 23rd, 2016, 19:21
muddypunk muddypunk is offline
TOOL
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coupeville Whidbey Island washington
Posts: 1,328
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

I am I've toyed with the idea of a diesel swap instead of going the stroker route.
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old March 23rd, 2016, 20:02
Boxil's Avatar
Boxil Boxil is offline
NAXJA Forum User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 234
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

diesel would be frickin awesome.
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old March 23rd, 2016, 20:19
Bstew_ Bstew_ is offline
NAXJA Forum User
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 61
John's 98 Build Thread

I can 2nd that housing market comment! Very frustrating...
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old March 23rd, 2016, 22:26
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

I was just cruising youtube when I came across one Coty Built's builds, and thought, "man thats schweet!" I started emailing back and fourth with them, and once I started asking questions that were deeper than "I want to spend $7k on your starter kit" they stopped corresponding. Right about then, this guy started selling his adapter kits. It occurred to me that I should be able to piece together my own setup that wasn't so questionable. My primary concerns with the Coty setup is the truss. The truss, while it places all of the accessories in the correct position to retain stock parts, looks like it would make wrenching difficult, and these engines do have a 60k mile timing belt.

So far I have got together most of a BEW out of a Jetta, a BHW (Passat) ECU and harness, and a couple blown turbos from a handful of vehicles. I popped the head off of the "running" BEW to find that the compressor inducer ad removed considerable material from cylinders 1 and 2.

Found the BEW I picked up on Craigslist for $600 with about 180k miles on it in Victoria, BC. The prior owner helped me hoist it into the back of my XJ, and I brought it home!






I got ahold of a reputable machine shop who specializes in PD TDIs, (franko6) and found out I was looking at needing a rebuilt head and block thanks to the cylinder walls being scored. Also, it had considerably uneven piston protrusion. The cost of this rebuild pushed me to look for a different engine to start with before I dumped too much in the smaller of the TDIs in the USA.









Using an EBay ECU bench I was able to dump the ECU and remove the immobilizer. Once I get a running engine, ill start it up before getting anywhere near the Jeep.



At this point I am planning on selling off the parted out BEW components that aren't ruined and building a used low mile BHW. The BHW has 2mm of extra bearing journal surface, better pistons, larger injectors, and a slightly lower compression ratio for better ability to take boost. Its weakness is this miserable piece of German overengineering called a BSM (Balance Shaft Module) that tends to die and take out the oil pump, but fortunately the BEW's robust oil pump will move right over to the BHW.

The purchase list:
  • BHW Long Block - starts at 134HP/247 ft. lbs., tunes up to 175hp/305 ft. lbs with a tune alone.
  • GTC1549VZ turbo - it spools fast and stays strong up to around 200 HP
  • EVGuy's Motor mounts, oil filter relocation, and engine adapter
  • Sprinter intercooler
  • NPG Racing steel oil pan
  • 4cyl radiator support (to move the radiator forward to make room for an intercooler)
  • late 90's Dodge Diesel fuel pump unit (low pressure, the mechanical pump on these engines only needs 8psi)
  • fuel-water seperator, 1 micron filter
  • return fuel line
  • some sort of fuel pressure regulator that is reliable
  • AX15 shifter out of a Dakota to bend up (the engine moves the transmission 4" forward)
  • Novak transfer case shifter

I want to retain the AC, Defroster, high idle, and the cruse controls. My plans for those are to use a VW AC module to run a VW compressor for both defroster functions and AC. I plan on using the documented (but unused on anything VW put out in the US) high idle ECU pin. For the cruise, I will have to run an arduino to translate button presses on the resistor ladder to individual IOs the EDC16 (Bosch ECU) expects, while I am doing that I wouldn't mind having some media buttons on the steering wheel... so I'll be looking for either a ZJ, WJ, or KJ steering wheel to butcher up.

As I said, I've been working on the CANBUS aspect, and thats promising for some info, but the speedo data is crap at being on a scale of 1-254 of an unknown unit. VW decided that the ECU shouldn't send distance to the cluster, so they pass the VSS through the cluster and condition the signal received by the ECU, so I need to replicate that signal and track distance at the cluster. I have two options there: 1) analog gauges - I like the VDO Viewline Onyx series in a auto meter 5381 panel or 2) drive a stock dash's air core gauges using another arduino. McNeil on tdiclub has been working on just that for his Wrangler but I'm leaning towards the VDO stuff.

My wife got me a 30 gallon genright for the project and I have read conversions like these get between 25 and 35 MPG... so after I've spend untold thousands, I should be able to go almost anywhere without fueling up!

So, tell me guys, how insane is this project?
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old March 24th, 2016, 07:10
Boxil's Avatar
Boxil Boxil is offline
NAXJA Forum User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 234
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

very insane but i am definitely gonna be following along on everything. You have a good style of writing up your posts and documenting the entire procedure.
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old March 24th, 2016, 18:25
muddypunk muddypunk is offline
TOOL
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coupeville Whidbey Island washington
Posts: 1,328
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Damn subscribed to this for sure.
Now rethinking Diesel lol I'm the cheap ass and swapping a H.O. over is simple haha totally awesome thank you for sharing!
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old May 7th, 2016, 23:12
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

I picked up a BHW (2.0L - 134HP stock) out of a 2005 Passat off EBay. Now the work begins



First order of business, the accessories need to be a little more compact to fit in between the XJ frame rails. To do this I am going to use the accessories bracket off of a BEW, 04-06 Golf or Jetta will do.



The accessories fit nice and tight.





This bracket needs to be notched to work with the BHW longitudinal motor mounts. My grinder makes short work of aluminum.





The compressor unfortunately hits, this chunk needs to be trimmed.





I swapped the dampner from the BEW too, the BEW accessories are on a 6 groove belt and the BHW accessories are on 2 separate belts. Everything fits now, just need to rebuild the power steering pump, alternator, and compressor before giving them the final tightening.



Now... realistically I have compromised the structural integrity of the left motor mount with my extreme trimming. I either need to replace it or reinforce it. If i choose to fab, it will serve as nothing more than a template, because I would feel better fabbing brackets to use OEM Jeep mounts anyway. The brown dog mount seems more sturdy than the VW oil filled mounts. I am not afraid of vibes.

The to-do list right now is:
  • Fab a set of mounts that place the engine inline with the transmission. Does anyone know the eye-to-eye measurement of the stock 4.0 mounts?
  • Buy the engine adapter
  • The thermostat housing contacts one of the hard coolant tubes or the compressor with the two flanges I have, need to find a sutible workaround
  • figure out intercooling - on the fence over water-air or water water
  • figure out air filtration
  • BSM delete, new cam/lifters/timing belt/water pump
  • rebuild tandem pump
  • rebuild A/C, alternator, PS Pump
  • Plans changed on the fuel module, time to play musical lift pumps and get fuel filtration solidified.
  • Find a radiator support from a 4cyl XJ, before they used the same radiator as the 4.0 - anyone know what years this was?
  • Found a snorkel that goes on the right hand side of an XJ, debating one of those.
  • Route A/C lines

I also just went into contract on a house. If it passes inspection on Wednesday, this project will be shelved for a while, since I now have to move. The good part of this though, 2 car garage and my payment is less than rent!
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old August 5th, 2016, 13:37
xeroOTG's Avatar
xeroOTG xeroOTG is offline
NAXJA Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 371
Re: John's 98 Build Thread

Heres an update! The last to-do list grew and was dramatically modified as I learn more about this project.

Heating:

I do not like being cold. I also like traveling to cold places. I have a three phased approach to cold on this project:
  • Use the 3 glowplug rear head housing available on European TDIs. I ebayed and got part # 038121145 and 03812133A which bolts up nicely. I will butcher up the extra BHW harness to build a relay setup for this and either flash a BGW s/w load onto my edc16 or have a tuner figure that out while doing the needed manual transmission conversion needed for the BHW software.
  • I REALLY like the idea of Malone's dynamic EGR he has figured out. His tune basically uses the EGR only to bring the temperature of the coolant up, then shuts it off for the duration of the cycle. 99% likely to go this route.
  • EBay Webasto Thermo Top. This has been purchased, and will be plumbed in when the gas tank gets swapped. This is a diesel powered auxiliary heater that brings the block up to 160f without running the engine or plugging the block in by circulating engine coolant through its boiler.


I had issues with the BHW hard coolant lines, the thermostat housing, and the motor mounts. I ended up mixing in a Dorman 902-990 (VW# 048121121B) thermostat housing off Amazon. It does not interfere with anything yet... time will tell and something will have to give. The hosing has had some iterations (combos to BEW and BHW hoses) but this is what it looks like generally speaking:


I favored the aluminum thermostat housing you can get for the 1.8t engine, but I couldn't justify the ($90) price for something that I'd immediately chop up to make fit when a replacement that does fit is $10.

The 3 glowplug head looks like this:


AC Compressor:

The stock compressor DOES NOT fit with the EVGuy motor mounts. This is not an issue for me, the VW pump was "special" and only used VW proprietary fittings and was a variable displacement design specific to VW. There are several options here. I am looking at an HD option that has the same displacement as the TDI had but has an improved head for better efficiency. The Sanden 4660 is the current option, but I also considered Sanden part numbers 4455, 4323, 7304, and 4711. 4660 is the HD version of 4711 from what I can tell.

The stock VW compressor has the same ear to ear dimensions as the average long ear mount Sanden BUT the compressing bushing that is pressed into the rear ears takes up a 3mm difference in the mounting pads. No matter what compressor I go with, I will need to fabricate some spacer and possibly mill the accessory adapter to work.
I've been doing math on fitting a compressor. I have 185mm from the center of the forward-most tooth on the serpentine belt to the front of the motor mount to work with here. The stock compressor is 214mm long from the first tooth to the rear of the compressor for anyone wondering why it won't fit. The 4660 I favor for this swap is 192mm from the first tooth to the rear of the compressor. 112mm of body, 46.5mm of first groove to body, and a 33.4mm head. It has an 8 groove pulley, so chopping off 3.56*2, we have 184.78mm to work with. Good grief, that's TIGHT.

Next I need to calculate where that puts the ears of the compressor in relation to the alternator bracket. The stock compressor is 68.9mm from the first tooth to the bracket (rear of the front ear on the compressor). This 4660 is 53.78mm to the same point, leaving a 15.12mm gap to fill.

4660:


4255 (VW OEM):


The rear ear is 14.4mm long and is 3.3mm further back from the bracket mounting bar, since the mounting bar on the bracket is 80mm long and the 3.6mm gap left on the VW compressor is taken up with a friction compressed bushing that sleeves into the rear ear of the VW compressor. Normal Sanden 8 ear compressors do not have this. I need to cut 15mm out of the rear of the bracket, so there wont be any rear support and the rear half of the bracket mounting bar will only have 3.3mm of aluminum left after moving the compressor forward.



Here's an overhead view of my logic:


Here's my bracket plan:


Fans and AC Control:
I am using a 28mm "temperature gauge pipe", milled the top off (read: orbital sander and 40 grit sandpaper, chucked in a vice), drilled the hole out to 13/16", and tapped it to m22x1.5 to fit the temperature sensor that usually goes in a Jetta radiator.



I also got a Volvo fan. Its like the Taurus fan everyone is gaga about BUT its brackets are FLAT and do not require excessive modification to fit everyday applications. I plan on grafting this into a stock Jeep fan shroud.

Fuel:
Fuel will be filtered through a 2um CAT or Donaldson class 8 truck filter on a Duramax filter head with an integrated priming pump and heater. I picked up a GM 12642624 filter body since it has banjo bolt fittings to make plumbing easier.

I also picked up the 68003865AB fuel pump kit for a 2000-2001 dodge 2500 with a 5.9l. It is a tad too tall. Atleast its too tall and not to short, to fix this problem, you trim the guide tubes, flair to fit, and cut the springs. In other good news, it has an aux fuel port for my Webasto built in, I only have to plumb it up. This guy has a 3/8" quick connect supply and a 5/16" quick connect return. Theres also an auxillary pickup straw for the webasto. I am thinking of replacing all of the XJ fuel lines with b100 friendly line, specifically Parker



Mounts and Adapters:
I have procured EVGuy's Motor mounts and engine adapter

Transmission to Engine mating progress

I got EVGuy's mounts and engine adapter as I had said I would probably end up doing earlier. Great quality! I also got a LuK 05-065 clutch kit and LuK LFW193 flywheel. The clutch in the Jeep now is about 30k old, I'm sure its got lots of life next, but with as much as I am into this project theres no sense in not just replacing it now. The flywheel on the other hand is OEM, 200k mile old.

Instruments

member Alexia has been developing a GREAT piece of code to emulate enough of CCD to run ALL functions of the instrument cluster with about $40 worth of hardware. I am completely onboard with using the stock cluster now! I will be building the hardware he has to do my own testing soon.

Whats left on the purchase list (in order):
  • Sanden 4660
  • GTC1549VZ turbo, drain, oil line, adapter plate
  • Stage 2 cam, timing belt, lifters, BSM delete.... blah blah
  • NPG Racing steel oil pan
  • downpipe, misc exhaust parts
  • b100 fuel line
  • AX15 shifter out of a Dakota to bend up (the engine moves the transmission 4" forward)
  • Novak transfer case shifter
  • Coolant hoses


The to-do list:
  • finish buying parts.
  • tandem pump, crank seals, BSM delete, cam, lifters, timing belt, water pump, rollers
  • driveshafts will change - need to calculate these. Looks like a handful of OEM applications will work for me, the 2.5l front shaft is looking good.
  • figure out intercooling - still on the fence over water-air or water water
  • figure out air filtration - looking like a Donaldson PSD
  • plumb cooling and air, atleast roughly before pulling the 4.0
  • FINISH wiring cleanup. I want the TDI harness close to standalone, then splice it into a 4.0 engine harness.
  • rebuild tandem pump - I have a rebuilt pump minus a seal
  • Still debating the snorkel.
  • figure out if tank venting needs to change
  • route fuel lines, remove EVAP when the engine is pulled
  • check fuel filler neck to see if it needs to be modified to work with diesel spouts
  • Route A/C lines
  • Mount A/C compressor


I just bought my first house. In the process, my wife and I decided we would remodel just about every aspect of it, leaving me with no garage till thats done some time in the next 3 months. This has severely slowed progress... but in the Seattle market, it made more sense than renting, since my mortgage is less than rent was!
__________________
Proof I've spent all of my money on my Jeep: John's 98 Build Thread
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
...sorry...another build thread... blondejoncherokee Sierra Chapter 1501 June 30th, 2015 16:07
My RE-Build thread... ZipperheadXJ00 Modified Tech Discussion 4 March 17th, 2014 15:21
my 91 xj build thread Vanimal Modified Tech Discussion 68 March 25th, 2012 19:22
Build thread OutkastBoss User Support, Questions and Suggestions 1 March 14th, 2012 10:08


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 20:38.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
NAXJA and NAXJA logo's Copyright NAXJA. All content/images Copyright NAXJA 1999-2014