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torque wrench ?

G

gijosiahh

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Richmond VA
i need to get a torque wrench and i'm not trying to spend 200 on a good one. has anyone ever used that Pittsburgh one from harbor freight? i also went to northern tool (for those who have them where they live) and they had one for 20 bucks more which looked and felt to be the exact same wrench. soo any input would be great..where did you get yours, how much, do you like it, etc.
 
ebay is your friend. all 3 of my matco/snap-on wrenches are from them. paid between 25 and 75 for an inch/lb to a 250 ft/lb. of course I can get them calibrated for free
 
Why do you need one a cheap one wont be very accurate after the first few months if you gonna be that cheap why bother with torque just get it tight.
craftsmen makes a okay one for 80-90 bux just be sure to store it at 0 ftlbs. if you get one for less just remember you get what you pay for. you can find a used one and get it checked.
 
I've got the Husky Home Depot brand 1/2" clicker and it's good quality. It goes to 250-ftlbs and the price was right. They traded it straight over for a broken Crapsman (back when they still did that). I also checked it's accuracy and it was within 2 percent at 100 ft-lbs. Can't say the same for the Crapsman one that was clicking at 150 when it was set for 90.

I'm reluctant to cheap out on a torque wrench. At the very least have a way to periodically check that it's reading right. Dirt cheap method is to stand on the bathroom scale when torquing a lug nut and do the simple math to see if you're close. More accurate is pulling the handle with a fish scale. 10% error is fine for most stuff, so long as the wrench is consistent.
 
Advance Auto sells an Ampro 1/2" torque wrench, and it is pretty good quality. I'm pretty sure it has a lifetime warranty as well.
 
i'm installing my aussie tomorrow and i need to torque the ring gear bolts to 60 ft lbs...i've pretty much just winged it in the past when i was supposed to torque down a bolt but i figured it would be pretty important to torque the ring gear bolts down right.....unless you guys think otherwise....this will actually be my first time takin the axle apart so if you guys think i can do without the torque wrench and just tighten it till its pretty tight then i'd take your advice...

i won't be using the wrench a lot, so i'll most likely just end up buying a cheap one and i wont be mad if it breaks or stops working.
thanks for the input
 
It's not likely you will need to mess with your ring gear to install an aussie.What kind of axle is it going into.
 
its goin in a d30. the directions as well as all the write ups ive read say you have to remove the ring gear bolts in order to install the locker...i dont have any experience so i'm just goin off the directions.
 
I allways pulled the carrier when I did that. If you pull your carrier then you need to torque you bearing caps properly. I can't visuilize how you could get by with only removing your ring bolts but I think you will be fine if you don't have a wrench for just that. Use locktight either way. Ive been using a cheap torque wrench for years. Just compair the readings to a freinds expensive one when you find one to make sure yours reads close to the same. Mine is dead on below 80# but is to strong the higher I go. I just tourque things on the light side of my wrench to compensate when I tourque things at 80# plus.
 
lamula said:
It's not likely you will need to mess with your ring gear to install an aussie.What kind of axle is it going into.
Click to expand...

It depends on the gears that are in there. 3.07's you dont have to remove the ring gear, anything deeper and you you will.
 
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