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hack happy

Oxen__

NAXJA Forum User
so i been on here for a bit thought i'd show ya what i been up too. chopping my rig and making a new wall for the back of my cab. i like king cab trucks so i am making a king cab Cherokee

any pointers or suggestions. trying to have a nice finish kind of look should have pics of the new cab framing welded in tomorrow.

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now for the damage

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i made the top chop in six cuts , three rough and three to size . figure you can cut too little and cut again and cut too much no dice

played around a little today got some new springs and shackle re-locators.
off topic

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so after some more minor trimming and knocking down the pinch weld in the fender area , my rig don't rub any ware in the front with the tires at full turn. or in the rear and shes stuffing 35/12.5/r15 mtr kevlars
 
good bye to a non twisted unibody. you shouldn't be flexing it out like that with the roof cut away.
 
plenty of folks cut their rigs and never add any thing back and don't have problems. i don't think flexing my rig out a few times will permanently bend it.

i think you mite be surprised when you quit believing every thing people post on the net.

now i mite agree if my rig was a four door. there's a bit less solid structure with the two extra doors. also if my rig was cherry i certainly dont think i would have cut it, rigs fairly dinged up and had floor replaced once oh and a tree fell on it . but i guess lets see what i can do. flame me to death if it don't look nice finished. i'll be adding bars from the cab to the rear of the truck before it sees any trail time.
 
i think you mite be surprised when you quit believing every thing people post on the net. .

I don't make a habit of it, I tore my body apart. It got so bad the hatch wouldn't even latch anymore and it pulled out all the spot welds around the hatch opening. It's more flexible than you think ;) Just giving some friendly advice.


and for what it's worth, the 4 door is generally considered to be a stronger structure due to the additional pillar behind the rear doors.

carry on.
 
I don't make a habit of it, I tore my body apart. It got so bad the hatch wouldn't even latch anymore and it pulled out all the spot welds around the hatch opening. It's more flexible than you think ;) Just giving some friendly advice.


and for what it's worth, the 4 door is generally considered to be a stronger structure due to the additional pillar behind the rear doors.

carry on.


i more less ment if you cut your top off. that pilar dont do much if it gets cut out .

but i do plant to add some bars . if i roll it in the snow this year i dont want my cab to be my last hat.

ware did your body come apart at i can beef up the problem areas. i just wasn't too worried about testing my sus. its been sitting in the drive way.
 
so i am building the back of the cab to be removable. if i go wheelig during the summer or at some point it may be nice to be able to open the back of the rig up.

.070 t6 clad aluminum should resist corrosion pretty well and its good and rigid. the steel frame i built i am installing steel riv-nuts easy to drill out if one gets fubared. i got some 2x3 3/16 tube to build some bars out of and some 1 inch round tube to weld on to the bed as a nice long hand rail kinda like a old truck bed.

heres a pic with the aluminum rough cut it will get some lexan windows and a slider door. i was turning some bolts around noticed one side had contacted the exhaust.

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:fuse: OH man i can not wait to see the finished product


i hope the anticipation isn't too much .

give me some time i'll try too make it good.

i guess what i was after is some pointer on sheet metal. i welld plate metal and bar all day at work. spoting sheet isnt something i have a lot of practis with. i was curiouse on how well the body metal welds. i plan to stitch weld it to the new frame then weld in between all the stitching.

now as for my cab i think i was miss under stood. i figured if you hack a 4 door ware i cut my truck. witch would be minus that rear door pillar would be weaker. i wasn't think about the rigs that only hack up too the rear door. so i apologize for that.

i also wasn't to worried about testing out my sus. a guy locally here hacked his 4 door up to the front doors so no rear pillar and its been holding up for a good while but we also don't have very difficult terrain here locally.

now if any one has some help full pointers they would like to share please do.

and i was joking about my cab being out of square :D
 
plenty of folks cut their rigs and never add any thing back and don't have problems. i don't think flexing my rig out a few times will permanently bend it.

i think you mite be surprised when you quit believing every thing people post on the net.

now i mite agree if my rig was a four door. there's a bit less solid structure with the two extra doors. also if my rig was cherry i certainly dont think i would have cut it, rigs fairly dinged up and had floor replaced once oh and a tree fell on it . but i guess lets see what i can do. flame me to death if it don't look nice finished. i'll be adding bars from the cab to the rear of the truck before it sees any trail time.
ummmm... not to be rude...

but who are these "plenty of folks"? id be willing to guess they are rednecks who can barely operate a tape measure to measure or even care to looks for damage. people on here are twisting full bodied rigs. how is it not considerably weaker now?

the 4 door gains more structural integrity from its extra pillars. ask any engineer.






i honestly suggest plating the unirails, installing a simple cage, and then continueing your build. itll make the jeep last a LOT longer... something you want considering your ambitions to "king cab" it.
 
Yeah check out some of the unibody strengthening kits on the market, probably a good idea before you get anymore " hackhappy"

Maybe some tube to make up for everything you cut as well
 
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