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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Digger87xj said:
5.9 now installed and running superb, a few odds and ends to tie up and she'll be ready for the trail.

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Since I have literally collected the parts for this swap... dumb questions:
will it fit under the stock hood?
how much lift is necessary and how much was your oil pan-axle clearance affected by the swap?

I'm gonna make the damn thing fit no matter how many deadblows, BFHs, and shoehorns I have to use, just curious what I'm getting myself into here... bloose from the MWC did one but the more info I can get, the better.
 
I'd SO like to do this to my MJ...... it's the electrical/wiring that I shy away from. I suck at automotive electrical..
 
It's not that difficult, especially transplanting a chrysler plant into a chrysler/amc recipient.

I'm sure if digger can't answer a question, either I can, or bloose can...

I have a 5.9, NV4500, and NP241DLD waiting to go into my 88 MJ :eyes: if I just had shop space or even a paved driveway I'd have already started. Honestly, mostly I'm worried about getting the transmission shift tower to line up with the console without cutting out half of the firewall at this point, I am really not afraid of the electrical or most other parts of the swap.
 
kastein said:
Since I have literally collected the parts for this swap... dumb questions:
will it fit under the stock hood?
how much lift is necessary and how much was your oil pan-axle clearance affected by the swap?

I'm gonna make the damn thing fit no matter how many deadblows, BFHs, and shoehorns I have to use, just curious what I'm getting myself into here... bloose from the MWC did one but the more info I can get, the better.
Click to expand...
I used a 5.9 from a 1500, 46RH and a 231.

Yes it fits under the stock hood. A mere 1/4 to spare over the a/c pulley.

I'm using stock manifolds from a 95 ZJ, and the right side frame needed 'molding' to fit the collector. It is still giving me troubles, as I need to lower the t-case because of the longer trans and shorter driveshaft the CV is cramped too tight and giving me vibes. When I do lower it, the manifold touches the frame on accel. Wish I had realized that while the engine was out... oh well. It's a steep learning curve for sure.

Axle to pan clearance is not an issue however, I my need to redesign the track bar to clear the pan during right side wheel stuff. Note, I have a HP 44 full width with a truss and a custom bent track bar. It may not even be an issue with the 30 and stock/aftermarket track bar.
 
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Awesome. I am going for zero lift (or nearly zero lift, I'm putting the 245/75r16s from the donor Dodge on it with a narrow 14 bolt and a slightly widened front axle w/ 8 lug adapters or something) and aiming for the "old farmer truck with crappy paint that has a little more get up and go than one would expect" thing. Until I get around to doing the bodywork and swapping on a 97+ nose, doors, and interior, that is...
 
ok dudes a couple issues.
first my MJ --i replaced the CPS and no change in performance, still stutters and wastes fuel like mad when the stuttering is going on.
my next step is the cam position sensor in the dist(hall effect sensor??) . i think the issue is the info about the crank and cam position is not where it needs to be, one is sending wrong info. when a load is on the engine it runs great. it stutters like mad when you need to hold a steady speed. starts easy every time. minor oil seepage. no major issues since my alternator hell days. and no more no start situations either. the stuttering is killing fuel economy, and i am sure it will fail emissions so i need to fix that. everything else is up to par i think. i think it is high time to check cap and rotor and my plugs and see if any of that is my issue.


second issue--
at work, customer wrangler... installed a used front axle housing. lift,springs everything went together perfectly. but now the front drive shaft wont fit like it is too long. or i have a d30 with a long pinion section. as far as i know, and i had a wrangler and did this exact same swap, a d30 is a d30. only variations are high and low pinion, and disco and non disco. and that doesnt include the 70's d30 with manual hubs etc. this one came from a zj and it had a CV instead of a u joint yoke.

as for any help on either issue i thank you in advance--


scott
 
I can't address the second issue. Hopefully you still have the old axle for comparison.

As for the first issue; did you test the TPS?
 
Gunter said:
no tps test.
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I sent you a link, where you can download a copy of the RENIX Manual. Start boning up on the diagnostics. If you can't find an analog Ohm Meter, I have one here.
 
Issue one sounds like a O2 sensor.

Issue 2..not all d30s are the same

the ZJ d30 is different from the TJ and both are different from the xj d30

The zj is low pinion and has a long pinion shaft. Jeep dubbed it a super 30. Hence the problem with the driveshaft.

The tj used a super short pinion shaft
 
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Digger87xj said:
Issue one sounds like a O2 sensor.

Issue 2..not all d30s are the same

the ZJ d30 is different from the TJ and both are different from the xj d30

The zj is low pinion and has a long pinion shaft. Jeep dubbed it a super 30. Hence the problem with the driveshaft.

The tj used a super short pinion shaft
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I thought the ZJ 30 was just a regular low pinion and the WJ was the super 30... I know the ZJ uses the same balljoints as the XJ and the WJ uses super 30 balljoints.

I didn't know a TJ had shorter pinion shaft, though. Interesting.
 
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