TOTM: Unibody Stiffening

[DieselSJ]

Note that all this frame stiffening and plating is great, but our old un-plated car never cracked or broke a rail. IMHO, cage and overall structure is more important than these frame plates. The biggest problem area is the spring bucket. That was a constant battle of realigning the bump cans because the pockets kept deforming. And if you are already cracking, there is very little you can do to save it.

No, I'm not pulling on it - that is the extent of the deformation.

Look at the back side of the bucket -

Cracks, failing spot welds, entire fenderwell structure was failing.

A couple of the trans tunnel - she was a twistin and a tweakin...

 

[GrimmJeeper]

my buddy told me on saturday that following my XJ down the freeway was like watching a stripper, the ass was shaking the whole time :roflmao:

all the spotwelds around my hatch are pulled out, and i've got cracks all over the place in the back end. i'll be junking this shell and plating and caging the new one before i start beating on it this time, as was mentioned earlier once they start you will just be chasing them and making repairs constantly.

I'd like to add to this topic plating and re-enforcing the leaf spring pockets, mostly in the front but in the rear as well. this area takes a lot of abuse, and is only supported by the floor pan and the thin cross brace that runs under the front of the rear seat. Something like Poly Performance's leaf spring mounts, or what the Fat City boys did on Stobaugh's build thread, would be a good idea.

 

[xcm]

also, dont XXXX with the area near the rear, where people commonly 'tuck n fold' that was a big mistake for me, IMHO. same with rear fender cutouts.

 

[kastein]

also, dont XXXX with the area near the rear, where people commonly 'tuck n fold' that was a big mistake for me, IMHO. same with rear fender cutouts.

X2, if you are going to cut out the rear fenders, do a good job welding them back together with something structural. The best thread I've seen on this subject was StumpXJ's - http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1011630

 

[srmitchell]

I am running the hd offroad stiffeners.

These along with a rigidco front bumper, the jeep feels solid.

Like Jim said, once mine were welded, it was quiet, but after one wheelin trip, all the noises were back.

Up next are the front and rear stiffeners.

Is there a way to setup those t&j tube stiffeners for people with no lca mounts? (Longarms.)

 

[DieselSJ]

I'd like to add to this topic plating and re-enforcing the leaf spring pockets, mostly in the front but in the rear as well. this area takes a lot of abuse, and is only supported by the floor pan and the thin cross brace that runs under the front of the rear seat. Something like Poly Performance's leaf spring mounts, or what the Fat City boys did on Stobaugh's build thread, would be a good idea.

Our front -

It was not enough. Stuff moved around at the Mint. There is more being done to this area now to reinforce it.

LOL, this was a pic from the build. You know it is a Jeep when it leaks before you even get it running...

 

[EricsXJ]

Mine's not built for JeepSpeed but frame stiffening is a good idea no matter what type of wheeling you do. Similar to a lot of the previous posters here's what I did:

- T&T 3/16" frame stiffeners
- T&T bellypan
- TMR front frame plates
- 2x6 x 3/16" rockers also tied into frame rail
- cage tied into everything

- still have rear frame sections left to do

pics:

b-pillar tie-in:

rear / interior:

front:

front unibody tie-ins:

the cage extends through the roof also:

Each step of the way I noticed improvements in how stiff the unibody was becoming. The most noticeable improvements I'd say were the initial T&T stiffeners and the cage, but it all helps in overall stiffness.

 

[xcm]

very nice!

 

[Starboard M]

I made my own TMR knock offs for the front of my Jeep. Minus drilling all those holes, it was a pretty easy fab project.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=970131&highlight=homemade+frame+stiffeners

 

[J Money]

Here are the Pirate Lab Chromoly Frame stiffeners. They extend below the LCA mounts and also brace the steering box. There is TONS of prep work involved, but they turned out really good.

 

[Mike L]

Here are the Pirate Lab Chromoly Frame stiffeners. They extend below the LCA mounts and also brace the steering box. There is TONS of prep work involved, but they turned out really good.

I remember seeing your original post. That looks good. Did you ever paint it?

 

[J Money]

I remember seeing your original post. That looks good. Did you ever paint it?

Thanks man! I have been so lazy and still haven't painted hem yet. I keep wanting to add to them and wanted to avoid the prep work. But I lagged so long now I have to sand them anyways.

 

[Ryan93]

prep work just tedious ripping off all the factory underspray?

 

[BRIANHO13]

prep work just tedious ripping off all the factory underspray?

A small torch will do wonders, just be careful and make sure you do it outside (very well insulated area).

 

[Mike L]

A small torch will do wonders, just be careful and make sure you do it outside (very well insulated area).

Ventilated?

 

[BRIANHO13]

Ventilated?

Yes, wow talk about brain fart.......Ventilated, very ventilated.

 

[kastein]

A wire wheel in an angle grinder blows that stuff away like you wouldn't believe.

Clogs up even a 20 grit flap wheel in a new york minute though :barf:

 

[xcm]

A wire wheel in an angle grinder blows that stuff away like you wouldn't believe.

Clogs up even a 20 grit flap wheel in a new york minute though :barf:

i find that to be grinder wheel abuse, and the smell isnt too pleasant either!
not all underbody's are the same, sometimes it's thin, sometimes its 1/4" thick in spots... try a grinder wheel at the 1/4" spot, you wont get very far!

cook it with a plumbers torch, and it peels right off with a flat knife.
in another thread, someone recommended brake fluid.

 

[kastein]

I said wire wheel, not grinder wheel. Big difference :lecture:

A grinder wheel would make a truly off-putting smell, you are correct on that.

EDIT: yeah, brake fluid does a pretty good job of removing it. So does brake kleen but I would be wary of doing that since it produces phosgene when you start welding and there is some left in a crevice!

 

[Larrythedog]

EDIT: yeah, brake fluid does a pretty good job of removing it. So does brake kleen but I would be wary of doing that since it produces phosgene when you start welding and there is some left in a crevice!

X2 theres enough crap to deal with when welding the uni-body without throwing brain damage or death into the picture.