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Synergy Suspension 4 link Or Rock Krawler 3 link whats better?

My RK links are solid and don't have the slightest dents in them, only scratches from sliding over rocks. It's a rugged kit and well worth the money.
 
My RK links are solid and don't have the slightest dents in them, only scratches from sliding over rocks. It's a rugged kit and well worth the money.

The tubes may be large and solid, but unless they changed their style, their tiny shanks on the rod ends are NOT very rugged. I have a few ends from an old kit out in the garage, and the shanks are bent.

Have they upgraded these?
 
I believe they are 3/4-16, not exactly weak and the same as my Rubicon Express
 
I believe they are 3/4-16, not exactly weak and the same as my Rubicon Express

No...RE lowers use 1.25" thread. The uppers use 1".

And they really are weak. I'm sure they're not hardened like a 3/4 shank FK chromoly hiem. But I'll mail you my bent, loose ones for spares if you want. :)
 
ive never seen those synergy kits before, but i do like those long arm mounts. the design seems pretty good. i also like that you can still use your stock trans crossmember. i was going to hack a stock crossmember and make my own mounts, but now i am rethinking. they are expensive for just two mounts and no crossmember, but at least they do sell them seporate from the kit. how many other manufacturers do that?
 
Well a while back I was looking at getting a 3 link kit. Was looking hard at the rockrawler kit. A nd while doing some reserch I found multible people had problems with the link mount on the frame tearing off.
In the end I decided to go with a redrider kit because the way his links mounted to the skid plate. Just like all the y link ones do. And after seeingthe picts of the head on acident with the semi I have more faith in his kit.

Now you guys talking numbers , none of them mean any thing to us less informed. So with out numbers of what forces the link bars are actually going through in the diff situations I say put up or shut up. I'm sure the links are going to be strong enough with any kit the op picks
 
I am building my 3 link off of a custom crossmember, ballistic brackets and 1/4 plate and box steel, here is a basic run down. Just for price idea

12"x12"x1/4 plate (cut down to 6" on one end) - $20 and cut off wheels

30" of 2"x6"x1/4" boxtube (1" recess for the crossmember and 4 mounting holes) - $40 and cut off wheels

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/HD-90-degree-tabs_p_1643.html medium tabs for lca mounts on the crossmember - $13

link towers one for the uca on the axle and one cut at 70* or so to mount on the crossmember http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-Tower_p_1398.html - $64

6 ballistic joints (or heims if you want) $300-400 depending on what you do

coil bucket/lca mount/shock mount http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-bracket-coil-spring-shock-mount-combo_p_1461.html - $52

12-15' 2"x.25 DOM - $175

Total around $714
 
redrider kit? Never heard of them you have a link?

As for the numbers they mean alot to me. I'm a machinist and understand how steel works..
 
redrider kit? Never heard of them you have a link?

As for the numbers they mean alot to me. I'm a machinist and understand how steel works..

the hexagon suspension dude who is in the first half of this thread with links in his sig
 
Nice. That's the problem with all these bolt-in options, the lack of separation at the frame. There's just not enough room unless you make a 20-26inch arm.
 
Nice. That's the problem with all these bolt-in options, the lack of separation at the frame. There's just not enough room unless you make a 20-26inch arm.

IMHO, axle separation is more important then frame separation. Whats wrong with a 20-26" arm?
 
Axle separation is good, and IMO frame separation is good as long it's about the same as the axle. And unless you make shorter arms, you'll have longer arms and some brake dive. Just something that's not acceptable for me. :)

edit: What I'm meaning is a midarm setup is the way to go to get proper geometry without cutting anything.
 
IIRC the problem is when you have 20-26" upper arm and a 30"+ lower arm because it messes with the pinion angle on compression and droop.

Then dont make radically different UCA and LCA lengths. Only Teraflex does that with their "long arm" kit.
 
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