steering overhaul

[ehall]

Hi all,

I'm looking for a sanity check on a plan here. The TREs on the Currectlync setup that I've had on my woods beater for the past few years have gotten worked out and there's a ton of slop in my steering anymore. I'm planning to rebuild the front-end to get some additional down-travel and beef things up. I bought a Teraflex high-steer knuckle a while back as a starting point, and this is what I'm looking at:

The governing angle is the drag-link to the knuckle. In order to get the trackbar parallel and the same length, I am looking at Stinky Fab adjustable axle-side bracket [1] near the inner C, and an out-boarded body-side bracket such as the Ruff-Stuff outside panhard bracket [2] (or maybe the Alpine Peak bracket [2b]). I may not have enough room to make the links exactly equal. Tie rod will go OTK on both knuckles (assuming the end link will fit below the drag link end, which it should).

Other items on the work list are JCR front stiffeners [3] to beef up the trackbar and steering (using their mids and want to match for fitment), TMR truss that works with this TJ Rubi D44 [4], Undercover Fab UCA passenger weld bracket [5] (had it before), and Artec inner-C gussets.

I have not decided on the links or ends yet. I'm favoring Summit Machine ends at the moment. I would probably buy their links too but their order page has gone missing so not sure they are selling those direct anymore. TMR sells some aluminum made-to-order for not too much so might do that. Suggestions appreciated.

Overalll I'm looking for a sanity check, if there will be problems that I'm not seeing.

I'm not interested in doing WJ knuckles or an axle swap, I like the TJ Rubi D44 with RCVs that I have now, and plan to convert/upgrade the outers later.

Thanks guys

[1] https://www.stinkyfab.com/collections/suspension/products/sfr-raised-track-bar-bracket-axle-end
[2] https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1154.html [2b] https://alpinepeakprecision.com/wp/shop/product/259/
[3] https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJUNS-F.html
[4] https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/axle-truss-kits/products/jeep-tj-front-dana-44-truss-kit
[5] https://undercoverfab.com/link-susp...pper-control-arm-mount-for-tj-dana-3044-.html
[6] https://artecindustries.com/products/inner-c-gussets

 

[75SV1]

I have the Stinky Fab OTK Trackbar setup. Also, his Trackbar brace set up. I like it. Mines with a WJ BB setup. The guy who did the fab work, used a Tera-Flex knuckle on his TJ. Similar setup.
Mine are for the road, so I used 1-ton GM TREs.

 

[XJlimitedx99]

Any reason you couldn't go OTK with the drag link end on the Teraflex knuckle? I'm assuming the knuckle is probably tapered bottom-up. Could you drill it and use an insert to flip to a top-down taper and run the TRE up top for super flat steering? Not that its necessary, but if you're going this far...

How are you planning on mounting the axle-side trackbar bracket out near the C? Are you coil mounts centered over the axle tube, or are they in front of the axle tube like the factory setup? If they're in front, there's no way you're getting the TB to the outboard side of the coil. If they're centered, it should work, but you'll likely need to put a bend in your drag link to clear the TB bracket. I just recently got my axle-side TB bracket placed on my JK 44 front. I put it outboard of the coil. There is just enough room for the drag link TRE at full steering cut, and I will need a bent drag link. I used an Artec JK Rear Trackbar Bracket JK4426 which is designed for a 3.15" diameter tube, but I modified it to fit.

I haven't placed my frame-side mount yet, but I also have a RuffStuff outside panhard bracket that I'm going to try to make work. I've had it in a box for years. I don't like that Alpine Peak Precision bracket because there is no adjustability at the frame side. I think that is important. Also, it says the bracket is 3/16" which feels a bit light. I think 1/4" is more appropriate for that mount.

I'm using GM 1-ton TRE's and 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM for my links. Tie rod uses the RuffStuff offset TRE's. I'm not sold on this approach and have been considering ordering a kit, but they're expensive. We'll see how this works out for me.

 

[75SV1]

I used straight 1-tons on my first setup. It had Rusty's OTK trackbar. On the Second with Stinky Fabs, I had to use offsets. Also, I ran or run RuffStuffs diff cover with the steering stabilizer bracket. If properly setup, it is not needed. I used Ruffstuffs 1-ton Crossover kit on the first. I pieced together the second one. I don't think I saved any money. Also, Ruffstuffs TRE boots held up better than the ones I got off of EBay. I did put some from Bulgaria. Seems to hold up.

 

[ehall]

I have not decided on the links or ends yet. I'm favoring Summit Machine ends at the moment. I would probably buy their links too but their order page has gone missing so not sure they are selling those direct anymore. TMR sells some aluminum made-to-order for not too much so might do that. Suggestions appreciated.

The summit ends won't work for the trackbar, so I am looking at other options again. May use TREs or the Rock Jock johnny joints, probably a mix.

Any reason you couldn't go OTK with the drag link end on the Teraflex knuckle? I'm assuming the knuckle is probably tapered bottom-up.

It would make the trackbar at the axle really high. It's a possibility but just eye-balling seems unlikely:

ps--the knuckle holes are not tapered, they are 7/8 straight.

How are you planning on mounting the axle-side trackbar bracket out near the C? Are you coil mounts centered over the axle tube, or are they in front of the axle tube like the factory setup? If they're in front, there's no way you're getting the TB to the outboard side of the coil. If they're centered, it should work, but you'll likely need to put a bend in your drag link to clear the TB bracket. I just recently got my axle-side TB bracket placed on my JK 44 front. I put it outboard of the coil. There is just enough room for the drag link TRE at full steering cut, and I will need a bent drag link. I used an Artec JK Rear Trackbar Bracket JK4426 which is designed for a 3.15" diameter tube, but I modified it to fit.

Eye-ball looks like I can fit it in where the sway-bar link is installed, but I may not be able.

I'm using GM 1-ton TRE's and 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM for my links. Tie rod uses the RuffStuff offset TRE's. I'm not sold on this approach and have been considering ordering a kit, but they're expensive. We'll see how this works out for me.

What thread size?

 

[XJlimitedx99]

The summit ends won't work for the trackbar, so I am looking at other options again. May use TREs or the Rock Jock johnny joints, probably a mix.


It would make the trackbar at the axle really high. It's a possibility but just eye-balling seems unlikely:

ps--the knuckle holes are not tapered, they are 7/8 straight.


Eye-ball looks like I can fit it in where the sway-bar link is installed, but I may not be able.


What thread size?

That does look awfully high when you draw it in. Nice and flat though.

The 1-ton TRE's use a 7/8"-18 thread. This is the kit that I bought with high angle TRE's for the drag link and offset TRE's for the tie rod.

GM Crossover Steering Kit

Check out the deal on GM Crossover Steering Kit at RuffStuff Specialties

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

 

[XJEEPER]

Summit Machine Medium joint will work for the frame end of the track bar, don't rule out a high quality FK heim (Julene from Summit can provide these as well) at the axle end of the trackbar. I've run this setup for almost 2 decades, using the same Summit joint, replacing the heim once in 140k miles.

Im running WJ knuckles with an OTK high steer configuration, using DOM tubing and Teraflex offset TRE's to provide both HD diff cover clearance for the tie rod and also clearance for my TJ Rubicon 16" wheels, running total BS of 4" using a 1.25" billet hub centric spacer.
Not mentioned, is what wheel diameter you are running? If you're running 15" or 16" wheels, the TRE options become narrow and more critical, whereas 17"-18" wheels allow for more clearance for TRE's

XJ Buildup III

 

[Evan03]

How did this end up turning out?

Id definitely run draglink over the knuckle if youve got enough oil pan clearance.

Track bar can be lower at frame side to clear oil pan.

Most likly a custom axle side and frame side to end matching drag link and clear oil pan.

I do have custom frame axle side track bar and still dented my oil pan. But alittle witness mark never hurt anything.

I love seeing these builds were good steering etc actually is tuned and thought out. Instead looking like the xj was bought from the McDonalds drive through line

 

[ehall]

I'm still looking at stuff. Probably spending money in a couple of weeks after I get some day-job work out of my brain. I took the last week in May for staycation, so may have to push it back until then.

One thing I remembered is that the teraflex knuckle hits the passenger swaybar link when turned driver. So the link has to go and I can't put the trackbar bracket there--it has to go where the factory bracket is installed, maybe give or take a little. I also found a pic a pic of a frame side trackbar link, but no information on it. Anybody recognize this? Probably custom work. I bet the driver tire would hit when turned passenger so I would need to increase the wms to do something similar.

I still haven't decided on what kind of link ends to use. The stock driver knuckle was drilled to 3/4 for the goferit insert, but the Teraflex knuckle is all 7/8, simplest would be to do 3/4 ends and reduction inserts for the tie-rod, no tapers, but offset TREs are attractive. Drag link and trackbar need to have high misalignment ends at the axle and would be nice to have rubber ends at the body side for NVH reduction. All the premade kits for body-side trackbar are 2" wide so that cuts the options. Drag link, not sure what to do, maybe taper for a 1-ton TRE if I can find a way to do it. Need to do more reading.

There's room in the budget for 7075 links, but not sure yet.

 

[Phil]

I had Tera knuckle on my Dana 30 from 2005 or 2006 to 2013. Unfortunately looks like all pictures are lost. @CRASH helped me/did it for me. We used GE large tie rod ends on tie rod and drag link and I never had to replace them. Panhard was a cut and straightened Rubicon Express bar, the good one with a cartridge joint at the frame and a bushing at the axle. We found some box tube that was the right inside width for the joints - maybe plated 2” 0.120-wall box? Cut one side open and drill a couple holes, gusset back to the axle tube. The sway bar came off entirely and it was good enough for me with RE coils and leaf packs and probably white shocks.

I did have to get new wheels 15x8 with 3.25” backspace. 3.75” Steelers with 1/4” spacers worked for a week or two.

 

[ehall]

Thanks for the info. My current wheels are cheap steel 15x8 with 3.75. I guess I will need spacers for a while. At some point I want to convert the front outers to 5x5 w/ hubs (rear shafts already have that pattern as secondary), and don't want to go beadlocks until then, so may get another set of cheap steelies with more offset temporarily.

 

[Evan03]

I bought the 1ton reamer and have gotten lots of use out of it.

My track bar i pushed slightly forward for clearance. Im running 2" wide. There are narrow misalignment spacers for 7/8 heims but i cant remember the width of them.

Theres old pics of my stuff somewhere.

 

[ehall]

A little measurement and fitment testing revealed a couple of things. First, there is enough room in the Teraflex knuckle to fit two rod ends in the center area between the arms--a 1-ton TRE is about 2" thick (not counting the zerk) and there is a little over 4" in the knuckle gap, plus the arms are offset, so as long as I stay in that ballpark (or less) I should be able to use any rod end for the tie-rod and still do OTK, even with the drag link mounted under the top tab. Also, I noticed that the Teraflex kit with the knuckle and links, the links are straight and not offset, and most of the one-ton steering kits with TREs have straight links, so it would seem that I can probably get away with straight links for the tie rod with this knuckle setup (maybe everywhere) and I don't *need* offset TREs for high steering (not that I'm aware of yet). Also, the 3/4" hole that I drilled in the driver knuckle for the goferit insert is too large to ream for 1-ton TRE, and too small for a 1-ton tapered insert; I don't want to drill the stock driver knuckle hole any larger, so my options are either replace the driver knuckle and taper that for 1-ton TRE, or use a non-tapered rod end for the tie-rod, something like the Summit small billet flex joints or maybe Synergy dual-durometer ends or TMR rebuildable heims, or whatever, but would need some reduction inserts for any of those.

The track bar can also use 2" or less for both rod ends, assuming the replacement brackets I'm looking at. TNT is still selling their XJ trackbar link, and also selling their shanked Summit trackbar end, so it might be worth looking at that for the body side (Summit only sells this piece as bare DOM). Synergy has a dual duromter shanked end that would be good at the axle side. These MetalCloak forged ends are about perfect:

That leaves the drag link, which needs to have high-angle misalignment at both ends. I can use high-angle 1-ton TRE for those by reaming the pittman arm, and using a tapered insert in the Teraflex knuckle. Or I can use something like heim joints I guess. Not sure on this part yet.

 

[Evan03]

Thats awesome, we will be needing pics of this

 

[ehall]

these TMR heims are pretty nifty, available with either poly or bronze https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/lifetime-heims/products/7-8-lifetime-heims That would be good at the axle end of the drag link (keep rubber up top for the NVH, but let the axle end flop around). Expensive but I would only buy one of them.

 

[Evan03]

For what its worth i did outboard my track bar similar to pictured above. No tire clearance issues. I was attempting to make it same length as track bar.

Ive since decided it doesnt much matter if its same length since its arc isnt pivoting from the same arc point as the drag link.

Parralell is kinda king. Length isnt super critcal. Since neither drag link or track bar are moving very far at speed.

Going slow useing all suspension travel twisted up and stuff flex steer is minimal

Thats a barns of road or ruff stuff outboard bracket. You could cut the frame notch to move it in adjusting how you want.

If you go over the knuckle mock it all up and run suspension through its full motion with no springs.

I did and gave half inch ish clearance to oil pan. This half inch disappeared in real life first ride out blasting through the desert at speed the track bar put a pretty good witness line in the oil pan

 

[ehall]

Yeah the more I look, the more it seems they won't be the same length. I don't think a couple of inches will matter though, like you said.

 

[ehall]

This is the recipe i'm going to start with, will double-check measurements first

Track Bar
Ruff Stuff body side trackbar bracket (2-inch x 9/16 holes)
(2) Ballistic Fab 9/16-to-1/2 reducers (for bracket bolt holes)
Synergy 4805-12 end with 43233-01 bushing (2-inch wide, 1/2 hole, 7/8 shank)

SFR axle side trackbar bracket (2-inch x 1/2 holes)
Rock Jock RJ-301600-102 JJ (2-inch wide, 1/2 hole, 7/8 shank)

Drag Link
1-ton reamer for pitman arm(s)
Ruff Stuff ES2027L GM 1-ton TRE
TMR 2010 lifetime (rebuildable) heim (2-inch wide, 9/16 hole, 7/8 shank)
(2) Ballistic Fab 7/8 to 9/16 weld reducers (for Teraflex knuckle 7/8 hole)

Tie Rod
(2) Barnes 3-piece heims (7/8 bolt with 7/8 L|R shank)
(2) Ballistic Fab 7/8 to 3/4 heim reducer (for stock driver knuckle drilled to 3/4)

edit--TMR discourages the lifetime heim on steering linkages, and suggests using FK heim instead, gotta rework that part