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RE Long Arm Kit vs TNT Long Arm Kit

JNickel101

JNickel101

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alamogordo, NM
From the pictures I've seen, they look very similar.....(the upgrade kits)

Can anyone tell me the pros/cons of each, or the advantages/disadvantages....?

Thanks!
 
The TNT long arm kit is very nice. I had to get a long arm kit for my cherokee because of how much lift I had. I went to my buddy whom I go to for all my upgrading questions. He told me to check out TNT or rusty's. The TNT long arm Y-link is very nice. I just put on the suspension upgrade. Takes a little bit to put in, It has more ground clearence than any other's I have seen.
 
I've got the T&T kit installed.

Pros for the T&T (from my own experiences):
-High clearance arms
-flush mounted LCA mounts
-excellent bellypan mounting system (6 anti-crush sleeves through uniframe)
-stiffens and braces unibody
-great price
-compatible with frame stiffeners
-bellypan increases ground clearance 1" over stock Xmember and lowers TC 1" for better driveline angles

cons:
-must detach the bellypan to service TC/tranny (takes all of 5 minutes)
-come unpainted

Pros for RE (from looking at their setup):
-comes painted
-modular bellypan for easier access to drivetrain

Cons:
-straight arms
-inferior bellypan mounting system
-higher price tag
-bellypan not as rigid
-may interfere with rock rails


I'm sure others will have more to add
 
Thanks guys, exactly the answers I was looking for!!! Anyone else with more input, don't hesitate to post!

Thanks again...
Nick
 
Certainly, and this is obviously purely my opinion. I don't like the fact that it bolts to the pinch seam as this could easily impair the installation of rock sliders. Also Instead of bolting through the frame rails with crush sleeves (which really do a lot to tie it in to the frame) they have you just drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of the rails, and then throw some welds on the front and back. I'm sure it's still a strong system, but it just seems a little convoluted, and not very well thought out.

Also, thy don't even say anywhere what thickness their bellypan is, and I'm assuming it's 3/16. I'm not trying to hate. It's a good kit, and I'm sure it works well, but the T&T is just seems (to me) so much better, especially when you consider the fact that it's cheaper.
 
i just bought RE long arm kit and kicks ass, they reforce the radius arms on the long arms, where rustys does not, they also have zerk fitings at joints, also the steel is 1/2 thick, and you can drop the transfer case by unbolting 8 bolts while you dont have to take off arms, only problem is you need a buddy to help you install it cuz its heavy.... i just whish they made a kit for each year so it would bolt up easier, cuz they designed it to fit all the years so its sloted...
 
WOW...I didn't realize that the RE kit mounted to the pinch seam like that.....You're right Drew, that would make for some pretty difficult (or creative) installation of rock slilders....hmmmm....

Thanks again guys....I think I'll be going with TNT or maybe Full Traction/BDS...still have to look at the difference between using radius arms vs full length arms....I know Rock Krawler likes to bash the use of radius arms....lol
 
JNickel101 said:
WOW...I didn't realize that the RE kit mounted to the pinch seam like that.....You're right Drew, that would make for some pretty difficult (or creative) installation of rock slilders....hmmmm....

Thanks again guys....I think I'll be going with TNT or maybe Full Traction/BDS...still have to look at the difference between using radius arms vs full length arms....I know Rock Krawler likes to bash the use of radius arms....lol
Click to expand...
also take a look at CLAYTON
 
anyone have pics of how the clayton system mounts up?
 
JNickel101 said:
WOW...I didn't realize that the RE kit mounted to the pinch seam like that.....You're right Drew, that would make for some pretty difficult (or creative) installation of rock slilders....hmmmm....
Click to expand...
They don't interfere much with the rock rails...and in all honesty you could leave the 'wings' off and simply support the frame mounts to the side of the frame. I've seen it done several times with great results. I've seen all these kits and RE is the best way to go, IMHO.

Hell, do a cutout rocker replacement and weld the RE supports right to the box tubing. Problem solved. This is a silly excuse not to go with a better kit.
 
ECKSJAY said:
They don't interfere much with the rock rails...and in all honesty you could leave the 'wings' off and simply support the frame mounts to the side of the frame. I've seen it done several times with great results. I've seen all these kits and RE is the best way to go, IMHO.

Hell, do a cutout rocker replacement and weld the RE supports right to the box tubing. Problem solved. This is a silly excuse not to go with a better kit.
Click to expand...

I also am curious as to what made you form the opinion that this kit is so much better then anything else? Not to mention that most people who buy these kits probably dont want to cut out their rockers just to install a kit or install it correctly.
 
drew and not u said:
Certainly, and this is obviously purely my opinion. I don't like the fact that it bolts to the pinch seam as this could easily impair the installation of rock sliders. Also Instead of bolting through the frame rails with crush sleeves (which really do a lot to tie it in to the frame) they have you just drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of the rails, and then throw some welds on the front and back. I'm sure it's still a strong system, but it just seems a little convoluted, and not very well thought out.

Also, thy don't even say anywhere what thickness their bellypan is, and I'm assuming it's 3/16. I'm not trying to hate. It's a good kit, and I'm sure it works well, but the T&T is just seems (to me) so much better, especially when you consider the fact that it's cheaper.
Click to expand...
Well, the outer pinch seam brace is a valid point, but it's easily worked around. The belly pan is actually 3/16" steel, and the control arm mounts are 3/16 as well, and are seperate from it. The belly pan is easily dropped for maintenance if needed, but it does hang just a tad bit lower than the factory mount. It's not much, but is noticable. You in fact do have to drill a lot of holes in the frame rail, but nut strips go inside the rails so you've got a very solid mount there. There are also mounting points for the control arm mounts on the inner portion of the frame rail, also on a pinch seam. I think in total there were around 36 bolts attaching the control arm mounts, outer pinch seam brace, and belly pan. Mine's not been on all that long, and I've still not welded mine yet, and I've seen several installs where the welding step was skipped. That's not to say I won't weld mine, I've just been too lazy to do it yet, plus I still need to go get a new bottle for my welder because mine's empty. I would highly recommend this kit to anyone, but I've had no experience with the others, so I don't have a valid opinion of them. I'm sure they are good kits, but my deciding factor was RE's excellent reputation of quality, as well as the fact that the company's been in business for quite a long time, and have survived the test of time with flying colors.
 
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