Poject - Fixing a beat XJ

[beer_goggles_009]

After beating on my Xj for a few years without any reinforcements (frame, sliders, ect) it is finally time to fix it correctly and add a cage. This also my first time major fabrication project so I welcome alll constructive criticism and suggestiosns. With that said ignore the crappy welds... I'm learning as I go.


The project begins after breaking the ears off of the steering box and susiquently giving the jeep a little haircut at Harlan in September.

picture during trip

Picture just before getting towed out (thanks again Matt).

TO do List:
1) Install HD offroad Engineering frame stiffners
2) Replace rockers to act as a base to the cage build
3) Cage


Frame Stiffners:
I will not bore you with another Stiffner Install How to. For all of those who question whether stiffners are necessary or not. Take a look at some of the damage that to my rails that I found while Installing the stiffners. There was similiar damage on both the driver and Passenger side where the sheet metal making up the unibody was torn around the welds securing the drop bracket braces to the frame.

Pictures of the damaged cleaned up.

Damaged areas were patched with new metal and the stiffners installed:
Picture after trepair and the sitffner Install.

Jim

 

[Gold Cobra]

My "To Do List" looks identical.

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Now on to the Rocker Replacement:

The rockers were destroyed beyond repair and were not worth trying to save. The rockers were almost flat in a few areas.The Pinch seam that many people tie sliders into was also destroyed. So I decided to cut it all out and do a small boatside.

First I cut out everything below the door sills including the pinch seams below the rockers. The remaining outside edge is the seam between the factory rockers and floor pan.


2X5 rectuangular tubing was used for the new rockers. The 2X5 butts against the bottom lip for the pinch seam inside of the doors (hidden below the rubber door seals). You also need to make a notch to remove the bulge in the structure forward of the A pillars (1/2 inch).

Rockers mocked into place:

From Below

I supported the rockers with a 1.75 square tube going from the frame rail to the new box tube. (one below A and B pillars, and one in between. I plan on bracing the rear of the rockers to the forward spring hanger box)

Installed Pictures:

As you can see from the pictures above you need to notch the floor to install the braces. I also plug welded and seam welded the door sills to the new rocker to tie everything togheer.


Next is the other side, then the cage build can begin.
Teaser pics of the cage deisgn:

 

[89eliminator]

i wonder how the frame got like that. its not like you wheeled i hard or anything.

btw, i like the haircut.

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Update: Both sides are now finished and I decided to add a 4th leg supporting the rear of the tube and tied that tube into the front spring hanger box.

Cage is next.....



jim

 

[89eliminator]

very nice

 

[discosteve]

looks good. its changed a bit since i last saw it at WF

 

[Gold Cobra]

Any reason why you didn't just butt the riser up against the spring hanger box?

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Any reason why you didn't just butt the riser up against the spring hanger box?

That was my original idea, but after looking at it for a bit I convinced myself that might weaken the spring hanger box. Let me explain:

The spring hanger box has a 1/2" perpendicular flange (parallel to the floor) that is welded to floor and frame rail, to butt the riser to the box this support flange would have to be cut. Basically this would turn the front face from a L shape into a single plane and significantly reduce its strength. Also due to the angle of the risers I was not convinced that I could get a weld along the full length of the box.

Adding additional bracing to the hangers has crossed my mind but I have not thought through the options yet. My focus has shifted to building the cage. I plan to look at several areas of reinforcements and gussets after the main cage is built.


jim

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Made some progress on the Cage over the past two days, and my arms, shoulders, and back are sore from cranking the bender handle.

With this being my first cage I was worried that I would screw up the difficult bends required to fit tubes along the A pillars. I followed the writeup called "tube bending 101" from Pirate4x4 and the two bars turned out pretty good. They fit pretty tight to the body.

I guess I got cocky or distracted talking with one of my friends who stopped by to give me a hand and learn a little about cage fabrication and I screwed up the C hoop. I did not pay attention to which side of the bend was starting from and made a hoop that was too narrow. You can see it outline of where it is supposed to be drawn on the driveway in chalk (left leg of the hoop).

Finally got the hoop finished and mocked it into place. The A pillar bar needs another bend to meet up with the C hoop correctly.

jim

 

[jakeWI]

looks real good! agreed with Wade!

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Made some more progress today.

I bent the A pillar bars to meet up with the C pillar hoop and tacked them into place. If I was going to do it agian, I think I would have a narrower C hoop (simple U shape). With the current design I think I could get hung up at the C pillar if I am leaning the top rail into something. Maybe I can smooth this transition out with some gussets.

then I started on the bar across the top of the windshield.

Tomorrow hopefully I can finish the bar across the top at the B pillar, and the 2 supports that go from the C pillar down the the rear of the jeep.

 

[beer_goggles_009]

more progress.

The B hoop bars are now in place, the vertical support legs are currently being held in place with floor jacks. I still need to spend some time to figure out the best way to tie them into the frame rail and the rocker support. I am thinking about 2 1-3/4" square tubes welded together and attaching to both the frame and the support leg. Picture of B pillar vertical legs:

view looking below the floor

from the inside

The rest of the cage is starting to take shape. This is definelty not the pretiest cage... but it should be strong and save the jeep and my butt in a rollover. The main structure is now in place and follows the body lines decently. I have noticed that when fitting in the cross braces and C pillar hoops I managed to push the A pillar bars about 3/4 of an inch towards the sides and away from the origional A pillars. I think I am just going to work with what I have since I expect that the cage will eventually get tweeked in a rollover anyway. Here are a few picture to show the progress.

Next step is to install the bars making up the Roof X and the D pillar bars.

jim

 

[RAM-ROD]

Looks great man. Going to be ready for Winterfest?

 

[MoparManiac]

Looks sweet!

Ever plan on replacing the windshield? The top bar over it looks like it could prevent that from happening...?

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Your observation is correct, I think the drivers side of the tube will not allow me to change the windshield. With the amount of damage to both A pillars, I'm not sure that A new windshield would fit anyway.

 

[beer_goggles_009]

Made some more progress over th last few nights. Made the rear cross braces for the roof.

Currently the cross braces are held in place with tape since they overlap the weld between the side bars and the C pillar which are only tacked in place.


I came across a possible issue when thinking through the front cross braces. If I create a true central node (right of image) I am not sure how to get the tube into place while being able to fully weld the joints between all of the tubes including the tubes that will end up with a partially covered weld. Anyone with cage building experience have any tips on how to do this?

The other option shown on the left does not create a true node but will allow all joints to be fully welded.



Picture below shows how the front of the brace will tie into the A pilar bar and windshield bar.

I also considered not creating a true node at the forward cross braces joint.

I also played around with the rear bars and decided that they will look better and be more functional if I add a bend in the D pillar support bar. I think this new design will enable the following possible modifications:
Gas tank relocation
supporting the rear quarter panel after a rear dovetail
tubing duppoty after a comp cut.

Rear D pillars mocked up with Tape


jim

 

[John D]

Just curious... why did you bring the drip rail tubes inward after the A pillars?

 

[vetteboy]

Kinda had the same issue...here's how I did mine.

Took the whole thing off to weld it, then set it back on top of the jeep.

 

[RCman]

Your observation is correct, I think the drivers side of the tube will not allow me to change the windshield. With the amount of damage to both A pillars, I'm not sure that A new windshield would fit anyway.

You may not think so now, but if you want to it'll be a pain later. I know.

Just curious... why did you bring the drip rail tubes inward after the A pillars?

Curious as well, I would bring the tube out to protect that area. Mine "sits" on that corner and works well.

Kinda had the same issue...here's how I did mine.

Took the whole thing off to weld it, then set it back on top of the jeep.

Exactly what I did as well. Tack everything really well then pull the whole thing off the Jeep. Even if you could just raise it up a few inches you'd be fine, the trick is planning the lower sections before hand so that is possible.