RJacks258
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Punta Gorda, FL
1996 XJ, right hand drive, A/T.
Hey all, I am having an odd no start condition in my right hand drive 96 Cherokee. When I bought it a few weeks ago the seller told me of a few issues, one being a check valve in the fuel pump/tank that allows fuel to drain back to the tank when it sits. No biggie just turn on the key and let it prime. Which worked the first time I drove it away. Then it started to become a hassle using it for mail delivery all the time and waiting 15-20 minutes every morning before it finally fires. I've searched and searched and haven't found much to pinpoint it. Now lemme explain the problem. First off I get the NSS code, P1899, but to my knowledge that shouldn't allow it to crank, and not a crank and no start. I can crank it no matter where the shifter is. The weird problem I am noticing is when I first turn the key on to prime the fuel rail I should get all the warning lights to come on, key on engine off. The only light that comes on is the brake warning light. After a while I notice the Gen/Check Engine lights start to flicker then eventually coming on solid after turning the key on and off a few times, 25-30. Once those lights come on is when she'll start. If those lights don't come on while priming fuel pressure then I can crank all day and nothing. My question, is the Crank position sensor some how related to these lights and getting it to fire? Is the NSS related to this? Once I notice the lights coming on a few times of switching the key it will start every time. Sometimes it takes longer than others but it starts. After that I never have a problem all day. Even if I have to get out for gas, or get out at a condo and shut the engine off I turn the key back to the on position and it fires up every time. Only cold starts are like this, which throws my thinking off of most electrical problems happening when the part gets hot. Maybe there's some kind of short? Bad wiring? I've looked it over minimally for now since it sits at the office I work at and I don't have it at home to really get into it right now. I've checked fuses, relays, wiring harnesses, and they all "look" okay, but haven't removed anything yet to clean and thoroughly inspect. Anyone have any suggestions?
A bit of an update maybe someone can point me down the path of this electrical nightmare.
I replaced the crank position sensor and vehicle speed sensor. VSS mainly because the old was leaking tranny fluid and the wires on the harness side were frayed. New one comes with a pigtail and heat shrink tube. Also pulled the NSS and cleaned it, shined up the contact points. Someone had pulled it once before as the plastic side of the casing is cracked. Put it together anyway because it's what I have now. After all this it does the exact same thing, crank and no start. Warning lights flicker here and there but I haven't continued until start like I do at work. I did this morning to bring it home. I'm checking all the wiring under dash right now. The other issue I noticed is someone has hacked the OE plug for the cam sensor and has wires crimped in place running right to the distributor side and plugged in that way. Filled full of silicone to keep from backing out. I haven't messed with those yet. Any other suggestions? My belief is it is definitely electrical.
Edit: I do notice once the key is on the fuel pump runs and stays running.
Yet another update, maybe someone will chime in that has a direction towards a solution:
Replaced ignition switch, cleaned all grounds. Look for shorted, corroded, dirty, non desirable etc. wires or connectors. Found one under the dash, but after a while of trying to start it, it fired and said connection was still disconnected. So obviously not related to my problem.
Found a bad rear temp sensor connector last night, fixed and securely attached it.
One odd thing I noticed today was with the fuel pump and it's relation to this problem. When you first try to start it and turn the key on, the pump comes on and runs but stays running. Now when I turn the key and the dash lights come on finally, the pump will come on and shut back off after 3-5 seconds like it's supposed to. Now what is controlling the fuel pump directly allowing it to run forever when the dash lights don't come on as opposed to it shutting off like it's supposed to when they do finally come on?
Apologize for the long first post, but it was copied and pasted from other forums I've posted in, including my updates. This is what I've done so far.
I'm starting to lean towards PCM, but don't want to spend if I don't have to. Already spent $120 on parts to start fresh on two and take care of some bad wiring on another.
Hey all, I am having an odd no start condition in my right hand drive 96 Cherokee. When I bought it a few weeks ago the seller told me of a few issues, one being a check valve in the fuel pump/tank that allows fuel to drain back to the tank when it sits. No biggie just turn on the key and let it prime. Which worked the first time I drove it away. Then it started to become a hassle using it for mail delivery all the time and waiting 15-20 minutes every morning before it finally fires. I've searched and searched and haven't found much to pinpoint it. Now lemme explain the problem. First off I get the NSS code, P1899, but to my knowledge that shouldn't allow it to crank, and not a crank and no start. I can crank it no matter where the shifter is. The weird problem I am noticing is when I first turn the key on to prime the fuel rail I should get all the warning lights to come on, key on engine off. The only light that comes on is the brake warning light. After a while I notice the Gen/Check Engine lights start to flicker then eventually coming on solid after turning the key on and off a few times, 25-30. Once those lights come on is when she'll start. If those lights don't come on while priming fuel pressure then I can crank all day and nothing. My question, is the Crank position sensor some how related to these lights and getting it to fire? Is the NSS related to this? Once I notice the lights coming on a few times of switching the key it will start every time. Sometimes it takes longer than others but it starts. After that I never have a problem all day. Even if I have to get out for gas, or get out at a condo and shut the engine off I turn the key back to the on position and it fires up every time. Only cold starts are like this, which throws my thinking off of most electrical problems happening when the part gets hot. Maybe there's some kind of short? Bad wiring? I've looked it over minimally for now since it sits at the office I work at and I don't have it at home to really get into it right now. I've checked fuses, relays, wiring harnesses, and they all "look" okay, but haven't removed anything yet to clean and thoroughly inspect. Anyone have any suggestions?
A bit of an update maybe someone can point me down the path of this electrical nightmare.
I replaced the crank position sensor and vehicle speed sensor. VSS mainly because the old was leaking tranny fluid and the wires on the harness side were frayed. New one comes with a pigtail and heat shrink tube. Also pulled the NSS and cleaned it, shined up the contact points. Someone had pulled it once before as the plastic side of the casing is cracked. Put it together anyway because it's what I have now. After all this it does the exact same thing, crank and no start. Warning lights flicker here and there but I haven't continued until start like I do at work. I did this morning to bring it home. I'm checking all the wiring under dash right now. The other issue I noticed is someone has hacked the OE plug for the cam sensor and has wires crimped in place running right to the distributor side and plugged in that way. Filled full of silicone to keep from backing out. I haven't messed with those yet. Any other suggestions? My belief is it is definitely electrical.
Edit: I do notice once the key is on the fuel pump runs and stays running.
Yet another update, maybe someone will chime in that has a direction towards a solution:
Replaced ignition switch, cleaned all grounds. Look for shorted, corroded, dirty, non desirable etc. wires or connectors. Found one under the dash, but after a while of trying to start it, it fired and said connection was still disconnected. So obviously not related to my problem.
Found a bad rear temp sensor connector last night, fixed and securely attached it.
One odd thing I noticed today was with the fuel pump and it's relation to this problem. When you first try to start it and turn the key on, the pump comes on and runs but stays running. Now when I turn the key and the dash lights come on finally, the pump will come on and shut back off after 3-5 seconds like it's supposed to. Now what is controlling the fuel pump directly allowing it to run forever when the dash lights don't come on as opposed to it shutting off like it's supposed to when they do finally come on?
Apologize for the long first post, but it was copied and pasted from other forums I've posted in, including my updates. This is what I've done so far.
I'm starting to lean towards PCM, but don't want to spend if I don't have to. Already spent $120 on parts to start fresh on two and take care of some bad wiring on another.
Last edited: