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Mounting Air Bumps

DaveS98

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chattanooga TN
The PO of xj #4 decided to chop off half the bumpstop tower.. leaving me with a decision of what to do to get my bumps setup right.
I dont have the opportunity to do the go fast stuff here on the east coast..but I am leaning towards air bumps simply because I can get a set of fox 2.0 bumps for 150 shipped to my door.

Right now the rig is not setup how it will be long term..so I am trying to get away with buying the air bumps and just adding pucks to the coil bucket to add/remove as the lift height changes over time. Right now im running 3" on 33s...eventually ill be up to 5.5 and 35s.. so obviously I will need to adjust bumps down the road.

Questions I have.. Would i be able to get away with a 3 or 4" travel air bump..and then simply add and remove pucks as needed to the bottom?

Also, ive seen a few threads on how these have been mounted..but havent found a for sure way on how I want to do it. Suggestions?
 
for starters, get the 4" bumps, you can always add spacers to the inside to reduce them to 2" travel later if you decide that's the way you want to go.

you have a couple options as far as mounting, inside the coil or outside the coil mounted to the frame. unfortunately though there isn't really a good spot on the front axle to use as a bump pad if you go outside the coil.

T&J performance makes a kit to mount a bump can inside the coil and its pretty beefy, if you can get a smoking deal on bumps that is the way I would go. JKS also makes what they call the ACOS Pro, which gives you the same result plus the ability to have an adjustable coil spacer to dial in the height of the front end. that route is quite a bit more money, but they are much simpler to install.

if you don't have access to anything but simple hand tools the JKS setup is the way to go, if you are handy with a welder and can get a deal on the bump stops themselves than the T&J kit is the better option.

HTH
 
Their link is odd..ill try and get to the T&J kit thought to have a look.

Ive considered just a 2.5" piece of DOM, with a .25 wall and somehow weld it in after chopping my bumstop tower off completely.

Trying to keep it simple and cheap. Ive seen bumping off teh LCAs..but im on stock LCAs till I can get another 3 link built.. so id prefer not to do that. I just dont want the damn bumpstops wrecking my coils.
 
.250 wall is overkill for a bump can. it won't be the can that bends it will be the upper coil bucket, which is why the T&J kit comes with a big fat piece of plate for you to weld in there.
 
Still no luck. Goes to a page about zen cart.

150 is a bit steep. Ive seen the kit installed on either here or pirate.. cant remember.
Isnt it simply a plate that goes under the hood, with a can mounted under the plate?

What keeps teh bumpstop from falling out of the can or getting pushed up further into the can when the suspension cycles.
 
the bump usually has a raised edge on it that keeps it from getting pushed in, and a simple setscrew keeps it from falling out - just like every other non split style bump can. there is a plate on the top and the bottom.
 
Alright.
So would simply welding in a plate with a hole in it big enough for a piece of DOM to slide down in it (welding the plate where teh stock tower is) with the bumpstop in the DOM work?
 
My current towers arent completely gone but about half of them are..
I guess if I wanted to poon out I could slide some DOM over those, and just weld a plate to the end of the DOM and run prothanes..

But..prothanes arent as blingy
 
for starters, get the 4" bumps, you can always add spacers to the inside to reduce them to 2" travel later if you decide that's the way you want to go.


I disagree, go with the 2" and stay 2". No XJ needs or should run a 4" bump up front. Not to mention, 2" bump stops are still 4" bumps with spacers, why deal with disassembly to make a 2" when you can order it that way?

4" bumps would be WAY too much bump zone on the travel you can get out of a jeep.
 
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