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Just Another XJ on tons, coilovers, 42's, etc. Build

something you can get easily to match from a rattle can. metallic or pearl would be a mistake. something you cant get a perfect match from a rattle can would be a mistake.
 
lexus matador red mica

CF_Logo_01h.jpg

Clean_IS-F_01h.jpg


or sedona red pearl cause i used to own one haha

buguy78.jpg
 
Vanimal said:
something you can get easily to match from a rattle can. metallic or pearl would be a mistake. something you cant get a perfect match from a rattle can would be a mistake.
Click to expand...

Maybe for a full bodied XJ...

But not in this Case. I can easily remove the panels and put on another coat it I wanted. Plus...my panels are all removable...so when they get bad enough i'll just make another set :D

That and all the body panels won't be on for all the runs. If its something where I KNOW the body is going to get crushed on there...it will stay on the trailer.

I'm not going to the ends i've gone to only to paint it with some crap out of a can :D
 
Just my opinion... I never really like those kinds of seats in a off road vehicle. I wheeled in a buddies YJ a while back who had seats like that and I just found that they got in the way when, for example, you were trying to crawl over something and wanted to lean over and look at the side. I would prefer something like this: http://corbeau.com/products/reclining_seats/moab. Compatible with a 5 point harness if necessary, without the side things blocking your shoulders in. Granted, you cant really lean over in a 5 point harness anyhow, so the point may be moot. Like I said, just my opinion lol.

Oh, and I would go with the orange. :)
 
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ZenDragon said:
Just my opinion... I never really like those kinds of seats in a off road vehicle. I wheeled in a buddies YJ a while back who had seats like that and I just found that they got in the way when, for example, you were trying to crawl over something and wanted to lean over and look at the side. I would prefer something like this: http://corbeau.com/products/reclining_seats/moab. Compatible with a 5 point harness if necessary, without the side things blocking your shoulders in. Granted, you cant really lean over in a 5 point harness anyhow, so the point may be moot. Like I said, just my opinion lol.

Oh, and I would go with the orange. :)
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After having Corbeau...the quality of these PRP seats are FAR FAR better than the Corbeaus. Yeah, and when strapped in no leaning will really be "available".

When doing more of what the typical NAXJA person wheels, then yeah being able to lean out is typical (like I used to without doors in the XJ)...but in that case there are probably no door bars, etc. Get to playing on big rocks and steep waterfalls and you want those doors bars REAL quick! :D

With the type of wheeling this is meant for, not having high bolsters and having a reclining seat is a mistake...since any rig that is going to get wheeled *hard* you more than likely should NOT see a reclining seat in...since the B-pillar tubes would defeat it being able to recline.

Safety is the #1 concern, so thats why i'll got the bolstered fixed suspension seats and 5 points, since the last thing I need is a screwed up back from rolling or a broken leg from something coming in the door and hitting my leg.
 
IMO, it's quite the opposite. There's nothing better than seat with high bolsters to hold you in place. The seat you posted, IMO, is no better than a stock seat in that aspect. I can't stand sliding all over the place and having to hang on.

I run Corbeau SS seats and LOVE them.

I think the quality is awesome. If the PRP seats are better then I should probably look into them for next go-around.
 
Lowrange2 said:
IMO, it's quite the opposite. There's nothing better than seat with high bolsters to hold you in place. The seat you posted, IMO, is no better than a stock seat in that aspect. I can't stand sliding all over the place and having to hang on.

I run Corbeau SS seats and LOVE them.

I think the quality is awesome. If the PRP seats are better then I should probably look into them for next go-around.
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Exactly...I can't stand sliding around in the seat. I would slide around in the Mastercraft Rubicon I had when it was full bodied (though given I didn't have a 5 point).

Don't get me wrong, the Corbeaus were overall good seats for the money...but when I got the PRP's in I realized why so many people choose these seats (though the price of my pair reflects that :D)

I would highly recommend looking into PRP next go around (or Twisted Stitch). Yeah, they're going to be more money, but they have so many more options to really customize the seat (many of which don't cost any extra) which is really cool.
 
freerider15 said:
Exactly...I can't stand sliding around in the seat. I would slide around in the Mastercraft Rubicon I had when it was full bodied (though given I didn't have a 5 point).

Don't get me wrong, the Corbeaus were overall good seats for the money...but when I got the PRP's in I realized why so many people choose these seats (though the price of my pair reflects that :D)

I would highly recommend looking into PRP next go around (or Twisted Stitch). Yeah, they're going to be more money, but they have so many more options to really customize the seat (many of which don't cost any extra) which is really cool.
Click to expand...

Yeah, Looks like my pair of seats cost about the same as your drivers seat. I'm pleased for the monies.
 
i LOVE my prp highbacks in my full bodied xj. they take some getting used to to get in and out, but when you do, it's a non-issue. a removable steering wheel helps. i have zero issues leaning out to see where i am going. i've had corbeaus in my mustang, they turned to crap in no time at all. night and day comparison between the two. i'd put the quality of prp up near oem seats or better.
 
Vanimal said:
i LOVE my prp highbacks in my full bodied xj. they take some getting used to to get in and out, but when you do, it's a non-issue. a removable steering wheel helps. i have zero issues leaning out to see where i am going. i've had corbeaus in my mustang, they turned to crap in no time at all. night and day comparison between the two. i'd put the quality of prp up near oem seats or better.
Click to expand...

Yeah they definitely are comfortable!

I know getting in the buggy isn't going to be too bad, but getting out might be a little bit of a pain with the door bars...but I'll trade safety for a little inconvenience any day.

This weekend I got both seats fully mounted, and got the harness mounting out done as well. Don't have pictures just yet, forgot to get them :D

Started taking stuff off as well (all fuel, wiring, cutting brakes, etc.) and piling it in the extra living room since it doesn't need to be on the buggy and won't go back on until final assembly.

I got my shipment of brackets in on Saturday, so I'm looking to have the engine cage fishplates in and the engine cage done, and the same for the engine skid.

My list is getting ever shorter...still looks like painting at the end of this month is realistic (provided I actually get stuff done).

Things that HAVE to be done before full teardown / paint:
- Engine cage
- Engine Skid
- Roof / Roof tabs
- All body panel tabs in place
- All wiring/fuel/etc. line tabs in place
- Remount Tranny shifter
- Door bars
- Hood finished / Front hood pins mounted
- Two tabs for fully mounting gauge cluster
- Interior panels made

Sounds like a lot, but it is nothing I shouldn't be able to knock out in a couple weekends.
 
How is it to get in and out of those seats PRP’s and how tall to the door seal is yours, mine is 24” on the bump stops with the bags completely deflated? As for a price comparisons, a pair of MC’s is $252.00 more then the PRP’s, both are recliners, any input will help……….
 
ComChewy said:
How is it to get in and out of those seats PRP’s and how tall to the door seal is yours, mine is 24” on the bump stops with the bags completely deflated? As for a price comparisons, a pair of MC’s is $252.00 more then the PRP’s, both are recliners, any input will help……….
Click to expand...

As far as getting in, that's the easy part (even when the door bars go on).

However the getting out part i'm not so sure about but will be able to tell you soon when I get the door bars in place.

Not sure what you mean about "how tall to the door seal is yours, mine is 24” on the bump stops with the bags completely deflated?"

At full bump, my belly is about 18" off the ground...but as far as the top of my boatside I'm not sure but could get a measurement. To give you an idea where the very top of my cage sits right now, i'm 6'2" and the top of the cage is about dead on with the bottom of my nose.

As far as price...The PRP's I ordered will normally run about $950 shipped for the set (I got mine for ~$850 since I picked them up from a vendor). Mind you I added a few extras so if you didn't get them wider, taller, and double stitched you could knock off a couple-few hundred bucks.
 
Both the MC’s & PRP’s are +wider (tailored made to my measurements), double stitched, adjustable Lombard support, w/ double lock slider with water & mildew proof foam and covering materials. Pricing is not always the determining factor with me it usually comes down to Craftsmanship, service and availability, oh and if they will stand behind their product………..
 
So more updating...

Worked for a bit this weekend on it...but man its amazing how slow things can go compared to how much you thought you were going to get done.

Got the engine cage done, what a PAIN that was. Took a while on this one to make sure things didn't warp and thus not fit back together.

With all the fish plates in:

IMAG0653_zpsa32b8c05.jpg


Removed:
IMAG0651_zpsbb8d6db1.jpg


As well got going on the engine skid:
IMAG0655_zps3ae68c45.jpg


IMAG0657_zps4c01be8e.jpg


The driver's side connecting arm for the skid. Originally I was going to use 1.25" tube to connect the engine skid to the frame, but didn't really have a way to get a good bend with it...and it would be hard to reinforce. Since the arms aren't a straight connection, they are going to need to be STOUT to hold up to any abuse. The main arm will be made of 1" x 1" box, with 1/4" plate wrapped over the top and flanked on both sides. Once its all "in place" i'll get the fish plates in for the engine skid as well.

Driver's side arm:
IMAG0658_zpsd543f6e5.jpg


Got going on the roof...this is going to be fun getting the front rolled to the brow.

IMAG0656_zpsd4d91310.jpg


Getting ever so close!
 
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Ha.....been waiting for this to be completed for years. Glad you stuck with it
 
rockclimber said:
He ain't done yet :rtm:
Click to expand...

Yeah, no kidding. Most can't put two years into a project like this....plus get through school. Kudos to Justin and I can't wait to drag him through JV
 
Yeah its been one long ass build :D

But it will be done very soon...thank god.

Hoping to knock out the engine skid over the period of this week. This next coming weekend is pretty booked so not sure how much I'll get to work on it.

So my list looks like:

- Engine cage (DONE)
- Engine Skid (Halfway done)
- Roof / Roof tabs (Roof Tabs done, just need to mount/rollbend roof)
- All body panel tabs in place
- All wiring/fuel/etc. line tabs in place
- Remount Tranny shifter (Will be done this week, this will be a quick one)
- Door bars
- Hood finished / Front hood pins mounted
- Two tabs for fully mounting gauge cluster (This will be done this week, this will be a quick one)
- Interior panels made
- Get all catch cans mounts made/welded on
- Fab up new gas pedal

I'm kinda actually in the beginning full tear down mode. The only thing I can think of left that I need the axles in place for is the engine skid and ease of moving around the rig with not having it on jack stands.
 
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