• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Important

GoSlowGetStuck said:
Hypothetically let's say I was looking at a higher mileage (~230k) 2006 Cummins w/ a 6 speed manual and 4x4 on the floor. Anything that could really burn me with that kind of miles on it? I'm assuming the engine is not much to worry about, it's probably had a new clutch or two by that point, and the front steering/suspension parts have probably been gone through a few times by that point. I know everyone says that drivetrain should be bulletproof, but are any other parts on the truck likely to cause me problems at that point?
Click to expand...


Injection pump? lift pump? That's still the 5.9 right?
 
kmanxj5050 said:
Injection pump? lift pump? That's still the 5.9 right?
Click to expand...

Yep, still the 5.9L, common rail. I honestly don't know much about them, other than hearing that 5.9s are great motors whether they are 12v or 24v or CR.

I know every truck has its common issues, I just usually don't find out what they are until I own one...
 
GoSlowGetStuck said:
Yep, still the 5.9L, common rail. I honestly don't know much about them, other than hearing that 5.9s are great motors whether they are 12v or 24v or CR.

I know every truck has its common issues, I just usually don't find out what they are until I own one...
Click to expand...


I don't know much either. i know those go bad in 24Valves. Don't know if the common rail is different or not?
 
Common rail 5.9ls and 2nd Gen 24v 5.9ls are very different injection systems. Both of them need lift pumps, but beyond that, there's nothing common between them.

A 2006 3rd Gen with a 6spd should be just about as close to bullet proof as you're going to get. It's built without the new emissions equipment. Personally, I'd go with a South Bend clutch as soon as it needs to be replaced. The 3rd Gen track bar is far superior to the earlier models, balljoints are still an issue, IIRC. I don't think it's got the variable vane turbocharger, so I don't think it's effectively got an exhaust brake (unless the P.O added it.)

The high mileage, while that's really not a lot for a derated OTR engine, should still be a concern. Why? Hotshotting? And how's the maintenance look on it?

My 99 24v has 336k on it, and really needs a new set of injectors this summer. Parts will run me several hundred bucks. *OUCH*, I just looked up the price on 3rd Gen injectors for a 2006. Vulcan Performance is listing Bosch performance (60hp and 100hp,) for over $2,500 plus a $1,200 core charge. I have no idea what the longevity is on the 3rd Gen injectors.

If you're serious, it might be worth ponying up for a membership at the TurboDiesel Register and looking around the CR forums.
 
Lets see, today I shot my P22. Then I shot my dads Smith and Wesson 9mm, his Ruger 22 (magnum and non magnum barrel), his 357 Magnum, and his 380. Then I loaded up his 22 rifle and shot some clay discs that we found laying on the ground. I got two new guns I want now (the 22 rifle, the 9mm) on top of wanting to get a Maverick Model 88 Pump shotgun.
 
ChiXJeff said:
Common rail 5.9ls and 2nd Gen 24v 5.9ls are very different injection systems. Both of them need lift pumps, but beyond that, there's nothing common between them.

A 2006 3rd Gen with a 6spd should be just about as close to bullet proof as you're going to get. It's built without the new emissions equipment. Personally, I'd go with a South Bend clutch as soon as it needs to be replaced. The 3rd Gen track bar is far superior to the earlier models, balljoints are still an issue, IIRC. I don't think it's got the variable vane turbocharger, so I don't think it's effectively got an exhaust brake (unless the P.O added it.)

The high mileage, while that's really not a lot for a derated OTR engine, should still be a concern. Why? Hotshotting? And how's the maintenance look on it?

My 99 24v has 336k on it, and really needs a new set of injectors this summer. Parts will run me several hundred bucks. *OUCH*, I just looked up the price on 3rd Gen injectors for a 2006. Vulcan Performance is listing Bosch performance (60hp and 100hp,) for over $2,500 plus a $1,200 core charge. I have no idea what the longevity is on the 3rd Gen injectors.

If you're serious, it might be worth ponying up for a membership at the TurboDiesel Register and looking around the CR forums.
Click to expand...

Jeff, for some reason I had always thought you had a CR, not sure how I missed that. Thanks for the information, I'm not sure if it was hotshotted or what. If the dealer doesn't have any information for me, I'll just have to test drive it and use my best judgement. The pricing is right so that if I had to put some money into it, I'd still be in good shape on blue book value. I really just want something more reliable that I'm not always throwing money at. I've probably only used my Powerstroke a dozen times since I bought it last August, and between every trip there's something that needs fixed on it, it seems. Between that and the poor mileage I'm not very inclined to drive it very often.

I expected the common rail injectors to cost a lot more than the mechanical injectors on the earlier motors, they seem to be every bit as expensive for the set as a set for my 7.3, and that needs 8 of them instead of 6. I know on the Powerstrokes it's fairly rare for them all to go at once, and you can get away with replacing one or two at a time (doing stock replacements, of course upgraded ones need to be all done at once).
 
I put new tips on my injectors 5 years ago (that's another story, cost me an extra 12 hours in shop time) instead of replacing the entire injector set. This time, I'm doing it myself, and am replacing the entire injector set. I'm quite sure that at least 1, if not most, are not "popping" at the right pressure, with hard starts below 40 degrees and a lot of white smoke. I'm fairly sure that it's not a VP44 injection pump problem.

I'm much more interested in a 6spd than a newer model. I've already got a 12" SBC conOFE clutch in mine, and I've been VERY happy with it.
 
You know you almost type how you talk, Jeff? Only saying because I can hear you saying this in my head from that phone conversation we had a month ago.
 
Powerstroke this, Cummins that, Duramax hit me with a wiffle ball bat.
 
I'm going to be blasting through on Friday morning. Unfortunately, it's going to be a low and fast run (trying to avoid any Imperial entanglements,) after I stop in Rockford, I'm still going to have another 400 miles to go. And I want to get through Chicago before Friday afternoon rush hour starts.
 
Hopefully by 260k miles the seats won't be hard as a rock still...

And surely someone has done ball joints and front end parts once or twice...

mac 'all 5.9s get 30mpg uphill with 30k load' gyvr
 
macgyvr said:
mac 'all 5.9s get 30mpg uphill with 30k load' gyvr
Click to expand...

except the one i owned...

mac '12 mph with single place trailer, 16 empty' gyvr
 
macgyvr said:
except the one i owned...

mac '12 mph with single place trailer, 16 empty' gyvr
Click to expand...
don't think that's 30k, should have put more behind it :yap:
 
macgyvr said:
except the one i owned...

mac '12 mph with single place trailer, 16 empty' gyvr
Click to expand...

I'm not expecting fantastic mileage, maybe a manual will help a little though. If I got better mileage empty I'd drive the truck a lot more, it'd be good in the winter and handy for general "truck stuff." 16mpg may not be amazing, but it's 50% better than 11mpg.

The only problem I remember you having with yours was with the trans right? I just want to make a trip and not have to worry about what's going to fail next. And I hope the seats are decently comfortable in it, if the most I have to do to the truck is swap seats from a Laramie or something, then that's a little better than doing an oil pump or injector O-rings or a water pump or whatever else I've changed in the last few months.
 
GoSlowGetStuck said:
I'm not expecting fantastic mileage, maybe a manual will help a little though. If I got better mileage empty I'd drive the truck a lot more, it'd be good in the winter and handy for general "truck stuff." 16mpg may not be amazing, but it's 50% better than 11mpg.

The only problem I remember you having with yours was with the trans right? I just want to make a trip and not have to worry about what's going to fail next. And I hope the seats are decently comfortable in it, if the most I have to do to the truck is swap seats from a Laramie or something, then that's a little better than doing an oil pump or injector O-rings or a water pump or whatever else I've changed in the last few months.
Click to expand...

i had the solenoid go out between 1-2. It still worked, it just shifted odd. Was only 200 bucks or so to have fixed. At 260k, the auto surely has been rebuilt at least once. If mine had been a dually...or at least had comfy seats it would probably still be in my driveway...now tho, you can't hardly pry me from the seats of an 08+ Ford...

sideshow just bought that 95 dually crew cab like yours. I drove it the other day, I was surprised by how much power it had for a truck that old with 290k...the auto shifted really good too.

mac 'its either car payments or nickel and diming...or both' gyvr
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Door Chime Demon
Replies
2
Views
66
Saudade
Saudade
O
Rear Brake Noise Question and Hepl Please
Replies
5
Views
381
asymptonic
A
macgyvr
What can we do better?
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
SAMSET
SAMSET
Z
1990 renix electrical issues
Replies
3
Views
91
cruiser54
C
J
2001 4.0L issues
Replies
15
Views
274
Saudade
Saudade
Back
Top