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Electrical Demons that would make Stephen King happy.

Hurricane06

NAXJA Forum User
Location
GA
Long story short I am having bad electrical issues. codes 1698, 1648, 1899.

The way all this started was with changing my oil this morning. Changed the oil and turned the jeep on to warm it up and check fluid levels. When I turned it off the starter kept running. Turned the key back to run the engine would crank. The starter burned up before I could get the negative terminal off the battery. So I replaced the starter with no issues.

Turned the jeep over and it cranks but won't idle and dies. I suspect the fuel pump and pressure check the rail and sure enough it isn't holding pressure. So I replace the pump and filter.

Go to turn the car over and nothing. I think maybe the starter burning killed the battery but it is good. So as a last chance I pulled the negative cable to reset the PCM. Well that worked but as I back out of the shop I pull the knob for lights and the engine goes nuts and the dash quits working.

I limp it home praying I don't get a ticket for driving without headlights. I pull the neg again trying to reset the PCM again. This time I can turn the lights on and the gauges work but it won't crank.

I did some searching and think I should clean my NSS so I attempt this but cannot get the switch out/off the tranny. Tried prying with the nut still on but it was going to strip the nut. I give up on this tactic and reconnect everything.

So I now crank and it turns over but now same issues as earlier. I go to turn the lights on and the gauge cluster dies and the car beeps like it does when you put the key in the "run" position. Turn the lights off the beep goes away lights back on and get beep again.

I honest don't know what to do at this point. I need by jeep by Friday to move home from Ft Rucker to GA.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Also the CPS is only a year old. Replaced it when I bought the jeep.
 
It is possible you have damaged the main cables with that runaway starter.

Does the battery LOAD test good--1/2 CCA rating for 15 seconds not less than 10 volts?
 
Joe,

You please bear with ignorance here but load test? Volt meter on the terminals with the key in "start"?

Tested the batt with the key off and it was 13+ volts
 
You need a carbon-pile load tester. Take the battery to a shop, they should do it for you.

The load test will prove if the battery is good--shorted plates will show up under load.
 
How old is your battery? They're only good for 3-5 years as a rule.

If you have an unsealed battery check the elctolyte levels. If low, top off with distilled water.

Check the battery terminals for corrosion.

Pics of '99 XJ ground points.

If you haven't done so already, check the primary ground points for corrosion. Note in the pics below that ground G101 is the ground point for the PCM and the TCM, and is the primary ground for the battery-to-engine ground

Ground G100 is the primary battery-to-chasiss ground.

You'll have to remove the battery inorder to remove the G100 fastener. Check this connection for corrosion.

Pics:

G100 -

G100.jpg


G101 -

G101.jpg


There is a bonding strap between the firewall and the cylinder head. It is used for radio interferance suppression but you should check this connection for corrosion anyway.

RadioInterferanceSuppressor.jpg
 
Sidewinder thanks for your post.

I checked all the grounds and they look good. I'm thinking I shorted the CPS when the starter burned up. I have a warranty on that so going to replace it today and see what happens.
 
So I decided to do some digging under the dash since one of the issues is when it cranks and I turn the lights on it wants to die.

I found a relay shoddily spliced into the harness that runs into the steering column. Wires just twisted and taped.

image_zps4ebc5840.jpg
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Looks like it was done by a relative of the guy that attempted a stereo install in my MJ pror to me owning it. Add a few marettes and I'd have said it was the same guy.

Apparently the cut and lick method of voltage testing was employed.
 
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