Agreed that it's pretty easy... your color codes and a few other things were off though.
Color codes:
white = always neutral. If you use it as a hot feed, you HAVE to permanently (tape, sharpie, paint) re-color-code it at the ends to some color off the hot feed list, usually black, red, or blue.
bare wire, green wire, green/yellow striped wire = always ground. No ifs, ands, or buts.
Almost anything else = hot. Typically black is a constant hot, red is a second phase or switched hot, anything past that that isn't on the neutral/ground list is fair game. Light colors are generally avoided, too similar to white. Often you'll see red and black as travelers (one or the other will always be hot, but not both) for a 3 way switch setup but that's not relevant in this case.
Breakers:
for a single phase 120v circuit, just use regular single breakers or those funky tandem breakers that let you install a second circuit if you don't have any spare slots in the panel. NEC is getting more stringent these days, almost everything in a house is going to end up being either AFCI or GFCI and almost everything in a garage will end up being GFCI.
for a dual phase (actually just both sides of a splitphase resi power feed) 240V circuit, you HAVE to use a special tandem breaker with the actuator handles tied together with a bar. What this does is cause an overload on either hot feed that trips its breaker to automatically trip the other hot feed breaker as well for safety. It also keeps you from turning off one breaker to work on the circuit, without realizing that the other goes the same place, and frying yourself.
Almost every (I can't think of any off the top of my head) breaker panel these days will have alternating feeds set up - so going down one side of the panel, breakers 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 etc will be on one phase, while breakers 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 etc will be on the other*. What this means is that when you plug in a tandem breaker for a 240V circuit, you automatically get the right setup with each breaker fed off a separate phase.
Other stuff -
- make sure you use low enough gauge wire. Look up the conductor ratings yourself, I forget what they are aside from the usual 15/20 amp stuff.
- cables are required to be fastened to something within 6" of every box, and every x feet (I forget, I usually go overboard and staple every foot or so) between that. Inside walls, stay as close to the center of the side of the studs as you can, if you're less than 1.25"-1.5" or so from either side you are required to put a nail blocking plate across the stud where the cable passes through. Going across open rafters or studs, you are supposed to put a furring strip down before stapling the cable down to avoid people hanging stuff on the cable itself.
- always fasten the box securely to the wall or framing, even if using conduit.
- always use proper knockout cable clamps.
I like to put a label over each outlet (at least in shops/basements/garages etc) that indicates which breaker or circuit name at the panel feeds it to make my life easier.
* some panels number the breakers on one column/side as odd numbers and the ones on the other side as even numbers. In this case breakers 1, 5, 9, 13 etc in one side are on one phase, breakers 3, 7, 11, etc are on the other phase, and in the other side of the panel, breakers 2, 6, 10, 14, etc are on one phase and breakers 4, 8, 12, etc are on the other. The same rule still applies that any breaker and the ones above/below it will automatically be on opposite phases, however, so you can just plug in a tandem breaker and expect to get 240V from its two hots.
than some random I find on google. 
