Dana 30 Build?

[DaveS98]

First, before I make a fool of myself.
Do you dudes think a stripped 30 is worth 40 bucks?

It's out of a zj (supposedly), doesnt have shafts or brakes..dude doesn't even know if it has gears.

I really wanted to go with waggy 44s but I'm bored..and can't find anything worth a shit.

Plans are a full truss with mounts to accommodate my 3 link, possibly sleeves tubes, stronger shafts, 488s, some sort of locker..etc.

Am I waiting my time?

 

[bluejeepkid]

What size tire?
35 or smaller, do it.
35 or larger, don't do it.
35's? expect to maybe break. Haha

 

[DaveS98]

Just read that zjs all use lp 30s which is retarted.

I guess the search continues.

Fwiw I'm currently running 35s..long term would like to run 37s

 

[bluejeepkid]

I wouldn't do it for 37's. Gonna cost you less in the long run to start with something else thats stronger.

 

[moparmansfield]

I would find a non-disconnect hp30 with abs(larger shafts) and add a truss and cryo'd gears. ive seen alot of guys on 37s and one on 40s still hangin. im on 36s and its working fine for me. can usually pick one up for 150ish, at least in my area. or just save up for a d60 and never look back.

 

[cheapcherokee93]

if you are planning on 37s just skip right on to a dana 44 at least. sure you might be able to build a turdy to last a little bit but honestly how many gear sets are you going to have to break before you decide to build up a 44? plus the brakes on a dana 30 are not going to be up to par with the stopping power required to stop 37s. do it right and build a dana 44 from the start

 

[zachandandy]

Go straight for a 60. The guys running larger than 35's still break shafts at a minimum. I built up the 30 that was in the jeep, broke 3-4 shafts and finally a ring and pinion. Scored an hp44 so cheap I couldn't pass it up. Broke a shaft on the first trip out. $700 for Yukon shafts and I'm still worried when I get after it. Many d60's can be found with 4.10's or 4.56's and I'd argue that in stock form it is still stronger than a fully polished turdy. Don't like the added width, run h1 wheels and now you've got the cheapest double beadlock wheels to boot.

 

[DaveS98]

Yea I'm gonna hold off.
I run 35s now on a basically stock lp30.

I'm not convinced I want to go full widths. I'd love to have 60 strength but I want to keep the thing somewhat practical as a dd.

Plus..kingpin 60s are going for like 900 around me and at the moment that kinda cash isn't available for spending on the jeep.

A set of waggy 44s is typically going for 400

 

[jeeperjohn]

I would say it is not smart to try to build a D30 for 37's. It could be done but for the money it would cost you could build a more desirable axle (D60 etc.)

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Yea I'm gonna hold off.
I run 35s now on a basically stock lp30.

I'm not convinced I want to go full widths. I'd love to have 60 strength but I want to keep the thing somewhat practical as a dd.

Plus..kingpin 60s are going for like 900 around me and at the moment that kinda cash isn't available for spending on the jeep.

A set of waggy 44s is typically going for 400

I see what you are saying, but a lifted heep with 35's is not exactly a "practical" DD. You could do like some and shorten the width of the 1 ton axle. But then you have the added cost of custom shafts. I guess the biggest issue with running full widths on a street heep is covering the tires enough so the fuzz stays off your back.

And since you are thinking/planning on going to larger tires, I would consider a bit deeper gear ratio. As 3/4-1ton axles have the availability of deeper gears.

 

[rockclimber]

Save up for a 60.

My 30 is as built as they get and I would never trust it on anything bigger than a 35".

A 44 is going to be just as much work and cost just as much as a 60 and still won't handle a 37" for long.

 

[clean4drxj]

44 and an 8.8 with chromos would be perfect for you.

 

[cal]

Save up for a 60.

My 30 is as built as they get and I would never trust it on anything bigger than a 35".

A 44 is going to be just as much work and cost just as much as a 60 and still won't handle a 37" for long.

there are a lot of 30's more built than yours.

How long do you consider long for a 44 and 37's? A lot of 44's have had 37's on them under XJ's for 10+ years and are still going strong. Its way cheaper to build a 44 than it is a 60 - to put a 60 under an XJ, you have $800+ to convert it to 5x5.5 or you have to go to an 8 lug rear end at the same time, not to mention the trouble of physically fitting a 60 under an XJ.

44 does sound like the answer here.

 

[MikeMc]

Depending on the specifics on the D30 the brakes are likely going to be poor to moderate for that size tire. I've already done both feet planted to the floor on mine with just 33s and pretty much crapped myself.

 

[rockclimber]

there are a lot of 30's more built than yours.

How long do you consider long for a 44 and 37's? A lot of 44's have had 37's on them under XJ's for 10+ years and are still going strong. Its way cheaper to build a 44 than it is a 60 - to put a 60 under an XJ, you have $800+ to convert it to 5x5.5 or you have to go to an 8 lug rear end at the same time, not to mention the trouble of physically fitting a 60 under an XJ.

44 does sound like the answer here.

The problem with a 44 is still the ujoints. They don't live long on 37"s. you can go the RCV route, but then you've exceeded the cost of the 60.


As far as the 30 goes, What, other than RCVs? Would be more built? Different built, sure there are other routes but for a 30 I don't think you can get much stronger. And considering this axle has held up to 9+ years of wheeling JV trails in another jeep without a single failure I'm pretty confident in that statement.

Sure, you can start adapting 44 stuff to get the stronger outers but once you're there, you've gone beyond a D30.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

I love how everyone says "just build a 60" without even considering the intended purpose and goal of the XJ as a whole.

Under some (leaning towards most) rigs, a 60 will do more harm than good. Unsprung weight can play havok if everything isn't built to handle it. Just ask all the veteran XJ owners that are now on their 4rth or 5th chassis.

 

[rockclimber]

Depending on the specifics on the D30 the brakes are likely going to be poor to moderate for that size tire. I've already done both feet planted to the floor on mine with just 33s and pretty much crapped myself.

That's what brake upgrades are for.

You should look into a set of Blackmagic pads for yours. Any bigger of a tire and I would say either a WJ swap or a vanco big brake kit.

 

[rockclimber]

I love how everyone says "just build a 60" without even considering the intended purpose and goal of the XJ as a whole.

Under some (leaning towards most) rigs, a 60 will do more harm than good. Unsprung weight can play havok if everything isn't built to handle it. Just ask all the veteran XJ owners that are now on their 4rth or 5th chassis.

Cutting corners is cutting corners... Don't blame the lack of proper chassis reinforcement on a rig has nothing to do with the drivetrain.

 

[cal]

The problem with a 44 is still the ujoints. They don't live long on 37"s. you can go the RCV route, but then you've exceeded the cost of the 60.

You said earlier the problem with the 44 was the balljoints. Now its the ujoints?

The u-joints on big bird are more than 10 years old. 10 of those years being on 37's..

 

[MikeMc]

That's what brake upgrades are for.

You should look into a set of Blackmagic pads for yours. Any bigger of a tire and I would say either a WJ swap or a vanco big brake kit.

Agreed. I've already done the WJ master/booster swap and gained only moderate benefit. Mine being an 89 with ZERO aftermarket pads available, my next brake upgrade will be to later model knuckles so I have a choice of decent pads as you've suggested. Unless you can point me to a performance pad for the 89. I've had no luck except OEM.