Custom Control Arms

[Abugarcia]

I just bought a XJ and I really need some control arms. I am leaning towards builting my own. I am planning to use these http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/images/2.5-lrg.jpg on the end of some 1-1/8 DOM tubing with 1/4" wall. I have a few questions about this setup: Since I have access to a lathe I planned to drill out the tubing to 11/16" on each end and tap the ends with a 3/4-16 thread and screw in the JJ's and jam nut. I don't think I have seen anyone do something like this without useing tubing inserts. Is there a good reason not to? Also when using such a joint do I need to use anything the joint doesn't come with such as a misalignment washer or something to keep the bushings centered, or can I simply put the joint in the mount and run the bolt threw it? Any input is much appreciated.

 

[JeepFreak21]

I just bought a XJ and I really need some control arms. I am leaning towards builting my own. I am planning to use these http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/images/2.5-lrg.jpg on the end of some 1-1/8 DOM tubing with 1/4" wall. I have a few questions about this setup: Since I have access to a lathe I planned to drill out the tubing to 11/16" on each end and tap the ends with a 3/4-16 thread and screw in the JJ's and jam nut. I don't think I have seen anyone do something like this without useing tubing inserts. Is there a good reason not to? Also when using such a joint do I need to use anything the joint doesn't come with such as a misalignment washer or something to keep the bushings centered, or can I simply put the joint in the mount and run the bolt threw it? Any input is much appreciated.

The most common reason (I think) that people don't just thread the tubing is because not everyone has easy access to a lathe. The only other reason I've heard is a fear that the tube will crack (or split) on one of the thread lines. If you're worried about this, then just get some thin stuff to sleeve it with and you should be fine. As for the misalignment washers... there is no need with that style rod end. Good luck!
Billy

 

[Abugarcia]

Has anyone else had any experiance with a setup like this?

 

[JeepFreak21]

Has anyone else had any experiance with a setup like this?

Tons of people... what other questions do you have?
Billy

 

[REDXJ4FUN]

another reason is that most use larger tubing that needs inserts. i use the same tubing your using on my steering.

 

[XJguy]

I threaded my tubing, but it would have been cheaper for me to have used an insert since I do not have access to a lathe and had to pay to have the hole reamed and threaded.

XJguy

 

[Abugarcia]

If there aren't any strong objections I am going to do it. Thanks for the help guys,
-Eric

 

[csudman]

How much lift u got. If your over 4-5, or plan on goin there. Might as well go ahead and build long arms. Unless thats what your planning now(You didnt say)

 

[MaXJohnson]

If there aren't any strong objections I am going to do it. Thanks for the help guys,
-Eric

keep us posted as you pioneer the use of undersized tubing on control arms. The reason you don't see guys doing what your talking about is because the correct size tubing for the job is too large to tap for 3/4" threads. Hence the bungs.

friends don't let friends build wimpy LCA's

 

[Abugarcia]

For now I am just going to build some "short arms" I am going to long arm it while at school next year. The reason I am building now instead of buying some used arms, is because I am going to use the same joints when I long arm it. Man now you got me thinking, I wonder how much more it would cost to long arm the sucker? Would I only need to build a cross member with mounts and move the UCA mounts onto the LCA?

 

[Abugarcia]

What size tubing do most people use?

 

[JeepFreak21]

What size tubing do most people use?

If you want to use that rod end, then use 1.5" OD, .250 wall, with a threaded insert to fit the 3/4" threads... if you're open to other ends, I'd use 2" OD, .250 wall, with threaded inserts and 1.25" b-7 grade allthread.
Billy

 

[Abugarcia]

What about using 1-1/4 DOM with a .313 wall and Ream&Tap it? The only reason I would like to avoid inserts is because I don't wan't to weld them in and I think it would be expensive to have the tigged in. The other thing I looked at are Spidertrax links that already have inserts on both ends.
http://www.spidertrax.com/fabrication_lnk.htm
For there 1-3/8 DOM with a .250 wall they want $45 for links up to 3 feet.

 

[csudman]

You dont "have" to build a crossmember. You can build your long arm mounts to go under the existing crossmember. For simplicity, I'd biuld a RE style radius longarm. ITs not any harder than biulding the arms your thinkin about and you use your existing axle end mounts. Look at the Rockkrawler Frame end mounts. I bought my longarm kit, but knowing what I know now i could biuld my own for 1/4 the cost and it would prob take a long evening.

These are Claytons, but there the same basic thing.

 

[korda]

If you want to use that rod end, then use 1.5" OD, .250 wall, with a threaded insert to fit the 3/4" threads... if you're open to other ends, I'd use 2" OD, .250 wall, with threaded inserts and 1.25" b-7 grade allthread.
Billy

This is what i did. i used 2" OD, .250 wall tubing wth 1.25" B7 threaded rod and tubing inserts. I welded the threaded rod to a RE Spherical Joint. I like the RE joints because they have a threaded side to adjust the pre-load on them.

Dan and Jeff both bought the RE joints and are doing the same thing on their set-ups.

I'll try to get some pictures by the weekend and post them on www.mn-jeep.com for you.