NotMatt said:
The tubing will be 1.75" or 1.5" OD .120 wall DOM. I have a 1.5" die for my bender, but would have to beg, borrow or steal a 1.75" die if I go that route. Where the tube meets the unibody will be thick plate, with my frame rail and rocker panel tie-ins sandwiching from the underside.
Is weight going to be an issue with this design in either of my tubing sizes?
Should I bolt or weld the sandwich plates on the top and bottom of the unibody tie-ins?
So, have at it.
Here's the drawing... I did it in MSPaint, so be nice. :finger:
I like this rendering better as the initial basis for a design, because the additions made on the other drawing are not really effective to make a signigficant improvement to the design.
Use 1.75 for the B-pillar only if you plan competition (it will likely become the standard minimum for a 4000# vehicle). The 1.5 will work fine with a cage combined with the unitbody. The .120 wall can usually be replaced with thinner .095 for elements other than of the pillars and halo.
Weight should not be a problem, as long as the tubes serve a purpose to distribute loads.
The unit body does not move independent of the unitframe, so welding is better for rigidity.
Parts of the initial drawing that can be improved are the two center halo bars and the door/side bars.
Instead of the two parallel internal halo bars, place them in a modified "V" with the open end of the V at the A-pillars (this helps transmit an A-pillar shock to more cage members, and it usually keeps the bars away from the drivers head).
The 'X' in the B-pillar can be replaced with an inverted "V" to make the upper center of the B-pillar a node with the halo "V" supporting the A-pillars. This takes no more material and makes the halo and B-hoop much more rigid to protect occupants.
The two cage threads Goatman posted offer great ideas, you cannot ask for a better guide. I agree with the champions of exo-A-pillar and roof rack, and internal B & C/D pillars. The external halo/rack makes it easier to fabricate and locates where a roll-hit takes place (the A-pillar and roof) outside of the windows to minimize glass damage. If you walk junk yards you see the XJ needs external reinforcement at the A-pillar (it's the damage magnet).
The diagional door/side bars shown tie into an unreinforced node on the B-pillar (a shock could bend the B-pillar). A competition buggy cage would run from the top of the B-pillar to the bottom of the A-pillar (too much in the way for a door slammer). For the XJ these side bars do not have to be at a steep angle, they can be on the floor or along/below the door sill/rocker. Crash went a little wild with the rocker, but the concept is valid to replace a side bar.
It's not apparent in Crash's pictures, but tieing the cage into the suspension mounts adds considerable rigidity (it's there, but not detailed). A reinforcement plate on one or more side of the lower control arm mounts (from A-pillar) and reinforced leaf spring boxes (from B/C-pillar) will add more laterial rigidity to the occupant space that the side bars as drawn. The floor, frame rails, and rocker reinforcement offer considerable strength for the bottom of the cage. As long as the arm and spring hangers are part of the reinforced structure you do not "need" side bars (even if they are at non-stock long arm or linkage mount locations).
There is not much detail posted for cage tie-in's below the door sills, and it's where considerable strength can be added with the integral cage/unitbody combination. Tie-in's at the top of the unit body halo to the pillars also provides considerable improvement in combined structure rigidity. The same can be said for improving the strength of the plan view frame rectangles defined by the steering box, panhard rod frame mount and the lower control arm mounts. The stress of large tires overworks the "frame" between these mounts leading to the constant abuse of the drivers side frame. If your already bending tube and cutting tabs a little thought on reinforcement forward of the firewall in these areas will help.
Keep these cage (and other adv-mod) threads going. I have watched these build-ups for the past five years as cobwebs grow on the bender and welders (through two hobby shop moves) and can't wait to heat a little metal of my own. I plan to get my own 2-door down the hill next spring for it's much needed improvement project. In the past five years the XJ outings have all been easier JV trails or harder trails in the hills of BB or Calico, and lots of neglect. Other than a quick fix of broken shock mounts, broken steering box bolts, driveshaft scars, and crumpled rockers & corners I have only been able to take time to keep my 88 smog/street legal (not much fun). The wife's house remodel is 99% done and has sucked 99% of the XJ budget (for now), and she has called it quits for a year or two.