• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Any straight through is going to suck.

I've got a Pypes M-80, and I'll be replacing it with either a Hushpower 2, or a Spintech (unless I find something else I like even better).

At idle it sounds good, but my rig tends to sit around 2k RPMs.

After a couple hours on Metal Masher in Moab, earplugs would have been nice.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I have a Magnaflow muffler on my 2.5" header exhaust. It's noticeable in the cabin, and not near loud enough outside since no one really notices my far too expensive rebuilt and modified engine. I like the sound, but then I take my hearing aids out before I drive the jeep, this a POS that was the quietest car I had owned in 92. :)
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'd forgot about spintech. I sent them an email with a few questions so well see what they say. I have themagnaflow on the v8 zj and the noise/sound is fine, but I agree it may be too loud on the xj.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I feel like I robed someone today, LOL. Rock auto!!!I scored these deals for a restore project.STRONGARM4782Lift Support$ 12.83

ULTRA-POWERES2222LTie Rod End$ $3.49

ULTRA-POWERES2223RTie Rod End$ 3.95

ULTRA-POWERES2221LTie Rod End$ 4.90

ULTRA-POWERDS1046Tie Rod End$ 13.91

It was like winning door prizes there today. :)

My daughter returns home to Texas in 7 days to graduate!!!! Been a year since I have seen the last of the Mohicans! She has been tearing up the foot tracks running in the Co Spring parks getting ready for her next Spartan race.

And 4 CC Cos, sent me refund checks today for overpaid accounts, LOL.

Today was good day not to die LOL!!

And I think I debugged my AC issue and dash short on 2 other jeeps in my fleet.
 
Last edited:
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Congrats on your daughter's graduation!
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Got storage bins!?

20170507_111527_zps0mvs8r3r.jpg
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Chinese crap isn't worth it. You overpaid. :skull1:

Well, for my needs (OEM DD) the Chinese crap works fine, and has been for a decade or more. And frankly these days most OEM crap is made China too. It just needs to be good China crap LOL. I have some China crap that still works that is over 25 years old.
 
Last edited:
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Congrats on your daughter's graduation!

Thank you sir, this is a big deal for us. In many ways.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Parts to be ordered tomorrow

1---2. BTF bolt flange mounts...to weld up and tie the 1/2-thick diff cover to the truss

2--- pinion support bridge tie into truss

3.---4 1/4 thick weld on tube flanges to make backbone support with tube tied into axle tubes and diff cover.

4. Artec modular 14 truss

5. a small roll of yet...expensive filler wire for welding up my 14 tubes...can be dine with regular mig wire , but I only want to do it once.


After I do this I should never worry about losing the rear truss or spinning a tube again .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

The dilemma ...Buy 42 competition sticky Iroks for 15 wheels at $700 a tire...or really hit the ol' wallet and go for 43sx competition at $800 a tire , and then spend another $1600 on 17 wheels since they don't make the sx 43 for a 15 .

I don't know how the Irok will look on my xj after cutting to fit 44s .


Last option is DOT rubber either new 44 tsl or 42-44 rockers .

The 42 Irok in a 15 is a true 41.5 and is a fsir bit larger than a 40'maxxis or bfg and should be a huge improvement over what I got.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I had a set of 42" sticky iroks. If I recall they were small.
Get the new 45sx. We have a set going on a jk at Tnt.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I had a set of 42" sticky iroks. If I recall they were small.
Get the new 45sx. We have a set going on a jk at Tnt.


45sx are dot rubber they measure about same OD as the 44tsl but narrower . I can get pbrs in 42-44 dot rubber and not need a 17 . I need to play around with these 44s cutting rubber away until I find the right amount of rubber on the ground to the weight of the rig on the tire then choose a tire . I watched DOT 43 sx do real well so a pbr may be a soft enough rubber for me tread can always be cut and tuned .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

When you around so I can pick those heavy out of date wheels up .

Anytime you want. I should be around this weekend and all day Monday. I'm home by 4:00 pm during the week. I can move them behind my gate so you can pretty much pick them up whenever.

As a last resort, I could try to load them into my baby truck and meet you on the south side of Denver during my lunch hour during the week.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

My dilemma is to either spend $700 upgrading my compressor wheel, turbine housing, and tossing a rebuild at my stock turbo or spend $1500 on a drop in GTP38R ball bearing turbo that is brand new and should spool just as fast while being more durable and capable of supporting further mods in the future. Truthfully I don't intend to upgrade my injectors or HPOP, but I also know myself well enough to know that if I ever need to replace either I'll probably upgrade them.

There isn't anything mechanically wrong with my stock turbo, but being chipped (I only run a +50hp tune) I get boost surge when towing and I want to drop my EGT's when pulling hills. On I-25 its not an issue, I can set the cruise at 80mph in O/D and just cruise along with minimal surge and EGT's plenty happy. When pulling mountain passes though I'm having to drop a gear and slow down to keep the rpm's up so that my turbo isn't surging and my EGT's stay happy. For example, pulling 285 up to Conifer I have to run 2nd gear at 50mph and 2200 rpm or so. Doing this EGT's hold steady at 1000deg pre-turbo and I get no surging. If I stay in 3rd gear my turbo will surge pretty bad under load and my EGT's will hit 1400deg, which is way too high. I'm ok tapping 1300deg intermittently but really anything over 1250deg is bad.

The factory Garret turbo is a journal bearing turbo with an 80mm wheel and 0.84 A/R turbine housing. I swap the compressor wheel out for $200 or less to get rid of surging, and replace my housing with a 1.0 A/R for another $400 to drop EGT's by a good 150-200 degrees. A rebuild kit is another $100 or so. I'll get a bit more turbo lag with the 1.0 A/R housing but the wheel is supposed to also help offset that along with getting rid of surge.

The GTP38R turbo is a ball bearing turbo with an 88mm wheel and 1.0 A/R turbine housing. From what I've been reading despite the bigger compressor wheel it spools up just as fast or faster as a stock turbo with a 1.0 AR housing. It'll also support more fueling/power if I were to ever go that route.
 
Last edited:
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'm assuming that's the Garret powermax turbo for the 7.3? If so, I highly recommend that one. I've installed a few, and it's like a whole new truck. They do make some more noise tho, but they spool so much faster.

I installed a batmo wheel on another 7.3. it sounded cool and made absolutely no difference in the way it drove.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yes, the Powermax upgrade. The stock turbo is also a GT38, but the 38R is ball bearing and the typical setup for the drop in upgrade is as described.

Not sure about the batmo wheel, other than its really pricey. I know the Wicked Wheel, X-Wheel, and the Banks one are mainly to get rid of compressor surge. Any improvement in spool up is just a bonus.
 
Last edited:
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Tell ya what Dutch.

I'll sell you my turbo. 140k on it.

Recently done (within the last 1.5k miles or so):
- Full rebuild (using dieselorings.com stuff)
- Wicked Wheel 2
- Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet (you would need an EBPV delete pedestal)

Works great...no surge!

Deal!? :D

I plan on going to the GTP38R myself, but I also plan on some injectors to match.

Other than injectors, turbo, and HPOP...I've done most of the things you can to a 7.3L.

I'm thinking possibly some Swamps 200/30 injectors, and still be able to keep the stock HPOP. Don't need a monster, but a clean, reliable 400HP+ would be nice.
 
Back
Top