TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
I've been thinking (bad idea, right), has anyone put a cherokee on a rotisserie to work on the body ?
I have plans to:
1) put on front & mid stiffeners
2) patch some minor rust spots in the floorboards
3) install 2x6 rockers
4) upgrade the lift to the 5"-6" range, maybe even go with the new ironman 4 link front & rear (currently 4.5" mixed bag of parts type lift)
5) remove the factory roof rack, weld up holes and install custom roof rack w/drip rail mounts
6) modify the seat mounting points to lower the seat height
7) remove rear seat completely and replace with storage
8) replace front & rear axles
9) could also use a new exhaust manifold (easier to do with the engine out)
10) maybe replace rear main seal (not leaking , just weeping at this point)
11) rebuild t-case (chain & basic rebuild & put the magnet back in that I left out with the SYE install)
12) maybe install some flares, likely the Notch Custom brand
basically, perform the work in the sequence listed
My question is, if I strip the steering/suspension/trans/t-case/engine/interior/fuel tank to get as much weight off the chassis as possible, but leave the doors & hood/hatch on to help with the stiffness and then put it on a rotisserie and flip it to weld on the underside, will I have flex problems ??
Should the windshield be removed ?? I would think it would help with flex as well.
or should I tack the stiffeners on good before doing so ?
With all the work, I will be close to stripping it all the way down anyway, and I know for sure welding with it flipped will be easier than upside down, as long as it doesn't cause problems with flex in the body.
Thoughts ? Ideas ? Suggestions ?
.
I have plans to:
1) put on front & mid stiffeners
2) patch some minor rust spots in the floorboards
3) install 2x6 rockers
4) upgrade the lift to the 5"-6" range, maybe even go with the new ironman 4 link front & rear (currently 4.5" mixed bag of parts type lift)
5) remove the factory roof rack, weld up holes and install custom roof rack w/drip rail mounts
6) modify the seat mounting points to lower the seat height
7) remove rear seat completely and replace with storage
8) replace front & rear axles
9) could also use a new exhaust manifold (easier to do with the engine out)
10) maybe replace rear main seal (not leaking , just weeping at this point)
11) rebuild t-case (chain & basic rebuild & put the magnet back in that I left out with the SYE install)
12) maybe install some flares, likely the Notch Custom brand
basically, perform the work in the sequence listed
My question is, if I strip the steering/suspension/trans/t-case/engine/interior/fuel tank to get as much weight off the chassis as possible, but leave the doors & hood/hatch on to help with the stiffness and then put it on a rotisserie and flip it to weld on the underside, will I have flex problems ??
Should the windshield be removed ?? I would think it would help with flex as well.
or should I tack the stiffeners on good before doing so ?
With all the work, I will be close to stripping it all the way down anyway, and I know for sure welding with it flipped will be easier than upside down, as long as it doesn't cause problems with flex in the body.
Thoughts ? Ideas ? Suggestions ?
.
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