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Can anyone help with tnt lift? asap, please?

R

Rickady

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hanford, CA
Ok, I've been trying to install my tnt y-link, I'm getting a little frustrated trying to get the front end set up right.:mad:

Just wondering if there is anyone who can come take a look at this and maybe give me a hand. I only get to work on this on Wed and Thur as that are my days off. At this rate, I'm not gonna be able to make it to Pismo.:(

Is there anyone who can give me a hand? I live in Hanford, anyone??

Thanks,

Rick
 
Thanks for the thought, hopefully someone closer will be able to help? We can have some bbq and beer or whatever your drink of choice. I need someone who has done this before. I'm not new to modifing cars but this is my first lift and I got vacation coming up. The family wants to go camping.

Anyone in Fresno area???

Rick
 
Ok, this is my first time posting pics, I hope I'm doing this right.:confused1


When I have it fully compressed I have places that bind up.


The track bar hits the diff cover and the ball joint on the drag link (pitman arm end) hits the cross over steering arm


The track bar mount hits the spring perch and I had to clearance the quicker disconnet pin


Ride height..


I clearenced few things at full compression, so maybe this will be alright now? I have the tnt y-link, ORO U-turn steering, 5150 12" shocks and 33" tires. Just been messing with adjusting the control arms all day trying to make sure the axle is in the right place.

Thoughts?
Here is link to bigger pics... http://www.putfile.com/rickady/images/110932

Thanks, Rick
 
um to me it look like ur tring to put the axle to high in the truck but it hard to see or u have the links set so the axles to far forwd. i have the y-links to and but re track bar and 5.5 spings stock steering link but im on 35s so my tire hit faster and i run re 3" bump stops to. the other thing is if ur not jumping it will probly never go both side full compression just crawling.
 
I set the suspension up around the limits of the shocks. Basically, the bump stops where adjusted to stop the suspension before the shocks bottom out and the axle will only droop as far as the shocks will let it. I don't have the limiting straps yet, but I will get them. The kit came with 3" bump stops that bolt to the spring perch and I cut them down an inch so now I only have 2" bump stops on the axle and stock length on the top. The reason I did this is because I wanted to use all the travel of the shock. If I left the 3" bump stop in the shocks would have over an inch that would have never been used.

You're right, it will probably never compress both sides like that, but you never know, so I just wanted to be safe. I set the wheel base up exactly the same as stock, but because of clearance problems I ended up shortening the wheel base by 3/4" at the y-links. Now I'm pretty sure that it will work. I'm gonna double check everything tomorrow and compress and droop the front again a few times before I put in the springs and wrap it up.

I'm sure the cross over steering is set up right. It is set up exactly like instructions said. Thanks for your input. Hope tomorrow is a good day. :laugh3:

Rick
 
Where is your wheel base at? I know you said exactly at stock but I'd just like to know the number.

I set my wheel base at 101.5" and have none of the problems you describe. However I also do NOT have a large diff cover on right now.
 
Rickady said:
I set the suspension up around the limits of the shocks. Basically, the bump stops where adjusted to stop the suspension before the shocks bottom out and the axle will only droop as far as the shocks will let it. I don't have the limiting straps yet, but I will get them. The kit came with 3" bump stops that bolt to the spring perch and I cut them down an inch so now I only have 2" bump stops on the axle and stock length on the top. The reason I did this is because I wanted to use all the travel of the shock. If I left the 3" bump stop in the shocks would have over an inch that would have never been used.


You're right, it will probably never compress both sides like that, but you never know, so I just wanted to be safe. I set the wheel base up exactly the same as stock, but because of clearance problems I ended up shortening the wheel base by 3/4" at the y-links. Now I'm pretty sure that it will work. I'm gonna double check everything tomorrow and compress and droop the front again a few times before I put in the springs and wrap it up.

I'm sure the cross over steering is set up right. It is set up exactly like instructions said. Thanks for your input. Hope tomorrow is a good day. :laugh3:

Rick
Click to expand...

I'm not sure building around your shock dimensions is a valid approach. Compressing your suspension that much would very likely damage your springs. I have the RE 5.5 lift with a D44 and 37's. I did the oposite you did and added two hockey pucks to my RE bumpstops to prevent the suspension from compressing too much. I did this to keep the tires out of the fenders and to prevent the springs from being over compressed. I also did 1 ton high steering with a flat waggoneer pitman arm, the wagoneer pitman arm provides enough 'throw' for the high steer arms, and it keeps the drag link from hitting the raised tie rod.

Pics here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243
 
Last edited:
If you think about how the suspension cycles, what's going on makes sense. You've moved the pivot point for front axle back quite a bit, making the arch that the axle travels when cycled much larger. Because it's larger, the axle isn't "pulled back" as it would be if you were running the stock LCA's.
 
I'd help....but I'm a good 1,121 miles away...:wave:

p.s. Hanford water sucks & Superior Ice Cream Rocks.
 
You need the 3" of bump stop and what everyone else is saying about both ends being fully stuffed is true. Unless you plan on jumping it, which I HIGHLY SUGGEST NOT DOING with the TnT Kit then you should be fine. The diff cover may also be a part of the issue.

If you wanted a rig you could jump you should have gone with the Full Traction Kit. This one just isn't strong enough for that.

Good Luck.....
 
The owners manual says the wheel base is 101.4. I did not check it first, now the the wheel base is 100.75. I have no rubbing in the fender wells and the suspensions seems to be good now. I have cycled the front axle up and down MANY times looking for binding, with no springs in it. I even drooped it and lifted one side at a time.
The top bump stops are poly and support the weight of the jeep without bottoming the shocks. I have about 1/8" of travel left in the shocks with the jeep supported on the bump stops.

I just could not see spending so much time and money on a lift and not even use all of the shock travel? So I worked on it till it was using every inch of travel with out binding. At first, 12" did not seem like very much travel and I was going to get 14". But now I am glad I only got the 12".

"Why cant I just do things like everybody else?" My life would be easier. If there is a hard way to do things, I will find a harder way to do it.

Edit for wheelbase typo.. and Superior Ice Cream does rock! SOS!
 
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Update:

Finally whipped it into shape, drove it around the block a couple times. I'll drive it around town this week and see how it feels, and get an alignment. The tires look on the small side in the pics, look better in person.

thanks

Rick

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