Buying a used engine... Need some advice

[xj^REMY]

Got an '03 Mazda Protege5 in need of some mild engine work. Tearing into it is not an option, as it's a daily commuter. So I've been trying to find a used engine to buy, rebuild, & swap into the car. The engine is a 4 Cylinder, 2.0L DOHC.

I found one that not only fits my criteria, but supposedly only has ~60k, plus upgraded transmission, was just swapped in less than a month ago, & WAS running in great shape, for $750. Problem is, vehicle was totaled due to a front end collision.

Now, where I need some advice... I'm fairly familiar with these engines, but does this seem like a fair price? More importantly, how can I protect myself in this transaction? I'm thinking to write up a basic contract, but what could be the terms?? I go through the process of swapping engines, to realize something's wrong with "new" engine, then what? He partially refunds me??

What ya'll think?

 

[tbburg]

Not sure about the price.(Not familiar with the car)

As far as the engine goes:
If it's from a wrecking yard, they usually have a 30-90 day warranty on that stuff. Individual sellers, well, you can write a contract, but enforcement is another can of worms.
If you're going to tear down the engine before you install it, you'll void any warranty from anywhere. How do they know it didn't fail from your "rebuild"?

Buying a known "accident" engine, I'd look for a couple things. First, any damage to the engine? Preferably I'd like to see it (or at least pictures of it) in the car. If the front of the crank took a hit I'd pass. Second, try to determine if there was a "sudden stoppage" event. More likely with a manual transmission. If whatever happened stopped the engine cold(crankshaft brought to a sudden stop), again, I'd pass.
(When this happens in aircraft(due to a prop strike for example) they toss the crankshaft even if there's no visible damage.)

 

[xj^REMY]

I checked with local yards that'll provide a warranty with the engine, but they want $600-800 for just the engine. I've only checked with a couple yards, and I'd feel better getting a warranty, but this option seems better. Lower mileage + factory LSD equipped trans + accessories (alternator, power steering, a/c).

So, met the seller, at his mechanics shop, to check out the engine yesterday. Since this is a FWD, the engine is mounted transversely, with the exhaust manifold to the front. Most of the damage is to the radiator/condenser, which pushed back & in contact with the manifold (doesn't concern me). Only noticeable damage, to the engine, is the valve cover (cast aluminum) got a chunk broken off the front corner & coil pack nearest to that is also broken. This was caused by contact with the hood.

I spoke with both the seller & the mechanic, & they told me the engine had just gotten $1500 worth of work & had the paper work to verify. They got the engine to briefly turn over. Obviously only firing on 3 cylinders + shattered MAF sensor (engine won't run w/o), but it cranked & with spraying starting fluid directly into the throttle body, it briefly sputtered.

It is a manual, but unsure if the collision stopped the engine cold. Through the hole in the VC, you could see the cam rotating when cranking. Cranks... brief fire up... verifies the timing is still good? Could this also say the crankshaft is ok? Only other thing, possible bearing damage??

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

but this option seems better. Lower mileage + factory LSD equipped trans + accessories (alternator, power steering, a/c).

Thats the Mazdaspeed protege Transmission.. that alone is worth $500. just an FYI

 

[kastein]

Make sure none of the engine mount bosses or the trans housing are cracked.

Oh, and find out if it was run like that, or if it died/was shut off immediately. If it was run like that for more than a minute or so, I'd plan on a new head gasket while it's out, that radiator's clearly trashed.

 

[xj^REMY]

Thats the Mazdaspeed protege Transmission.. that alone is worth $500. just an FYI

Yup. Among the reasons why I'm attracted to this.

Make sure none of the engine mount bosses or the trans housing are cracked.

Oh, and find out if it was run like that, or if it died/was shut off immediately. If it was run like that for more than a minute or so, I'd plan on a new head gasket while it's out, that radiator's clearly trashed.

Although I misunderstood some things, I'm going to take my chances & make the purchase. $1500 of work was done to the CAR (wheel bearings, brakes, THIS 60k engine install, & LSD trans swap as well). The engine has not had any work done to it. Owner is including another complete head, valve cover, & few odds & ends

The picture actually makes it look a lot worse, but I will be thoroughly inspecting when it's out.

I would rather not spend more to completely rebuild this engine, & I know I'm over-analyzing, but I can't help it. Obviously, I'm dropping the oil pan, to inspect & clean it out (& need to swap the windage tray/main bearing support tray). Good time to inspect the crank/rod bearings & cylinder walls (from the bottom up)? New oil pan/intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets, crank/cam seals. New timing belt set (this has an idler & tensioner that get replaced). Should I do a leak down test, to check for any abnormal leaks in the piston rings/valves/head gasket?

If I remove the head, would I NEED the block cleaned & milled, (~$300) & I know I'd need new head bolts & gasket. Basically, at that point, I might as well do a full rebuild (all parts above = $270 + pistons & piston rings + valve seals + main & rod bearings + thrust washers = $550).

Looks like gears for the XJ might have to continue to wait...

 

[cf_collins]

Yup. Among the reasons why I'm attracted to this.



Although I misunderstood some things, I'm going to take my chances & make the purchase. $1500 of work was done to the CAR (wheel bearings, brakes, THIS 60k engine install, & LSD trans swap as well). The engine has not had any work done to it. Owner is including another complete head, valve cover, & few odds & ends

The picture actually makes it look a lot worse, but I will be thoroughly inspecting when it's out.

I would rather not spend more to completely rebuild this engine, & I know I'm over-analyzing, but I can't help it. Obviously, I'm dropping the oil pan, to inspect & clean it out (& need to swap the windage tray/main bearing support tray). Good time to inspect the crank/rod bearings & cylinder walls (from the bottom up)? New oil pan/intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets, crank/cam seals. New timing belt set (this has an idler & tensioner that get replaced). Should I do a leak down test, to check for any abnormal leaks in the piston rings/valves/head gasket?

If I remove the head, would I NEED the block cleaned & milled, (~$300) & I know I'd need new head bolts & gasket. Basically, at that point, I might as well do a full rebuild (all parts above = $270 + pistons & piston rings + valve seals + main & rod bearings + thrust washers = $550).

Looks like gears for the XJ might have to continue to wait...

It's your daily driver. Make sure it's reliable. There are some nice UV dye kits for crack detection.