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Build: "full body" tons and 40s

Reading back im not sure what 7" from what your talking about.

You really should think about getting some 14" foa coilovers get away from over the shelf spring rates. And shocks that dont work great.

Set upper coilover bracket at desired ride height with proper spring rates youl have about 5-6" of up travel.

The guys at Foa will help with spring rates and shock valveing

Your steering is looking great all of your build is sweet actually.

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Can agree with Evam^^^ whole build is looking spectacular, makes me jelly I'm still rocking stock frame and warped JCR sliders.
Haven't seen a good build thread like this in awhile either, thanks for documenting it for us to enjoy.
 
Reading back im not sure what 7" from what your talking about.

You really should think about getting some 14" foa coilovers get away from over the shelf spring rates. And shocks that dont work great.

Set upper coilover bracket at desired ride height with proper spring rates youl have about 5-6" of up travel.

The guys at Foa will help with spring rates and shock valveing

Your steering is looking great all of your build is sweet actually.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the reply and compliment, I appreciate the help!


I was referring to the measurement between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the "frame" and if there is a standard amount it should be.



Heres what I see floating around:
With Standard or Soft Ride Suspension, vertical distance should be 17 cm (6-3/4 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch). With Heavy Duty Suspension, vertical distance should be 20 cm (7-3/4 inches) plus or minus 13 mm (1/2 inch).
Is this a good baseline to start?


Can agree with Evam^^^ whole build is looking spectacular, makes me jelly I'm still rocking stock frame and warped JCR sliders.
Haven't seen a good build thread like this in awhile either, thanks for documenting it for us to enjoy.


I appreciate the kind words thanks!
 
I was thinking the same thing, no builds like this in awhile.

As far as numbers you find junk them. Run as low ad possible ro keep drag link out of oil pan

My jeep isnt suposed to work broke all the rules and I love it. Im also very jealus of your axles

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Troll CL for a while or set up alerts, thats how I got these axles cheap.



Ok got the axle under the jeep. Im gonna hit you guys with some noob questions.



1:Am I measuring all my links while the axle is "full stuff?"
2:How exactly do I "locate" where the axle goes? I have plumb bobs to line up, just not exactly sure where to start as a baseline.

3: Am I OK to go ahead and get me tie rod installed with the axle out? I assume the tie rod measurement is the same no matter what?


Heres the axle at what I think is pretty much full stuff...but not located. (5deg caster) The track bar will be close to the oil pan. Looks like im going to have tons of inner fender clearance at stuffed which is good...but looks like im not going to be able to stretch much and something like a astro box may be too much.



Looks like the limitation will be the pitman arm hitting the track bar mount...as far as stretch goes.



Thanks for any helps guys!
 
Tonight I flipped the pitman arm around simulating the Astro steering gear and it may actually just be the ticket. Looks like it opens up all kinds of room and would give around 38" lower arms. I suppose this would also help me locate the axle....just move it forward until I cant anymore lol :) Putting the axle out further seems to give me more caster as well and the pinion is pointed right at the transfer case full stuff.



Will just have to come up with a way to protect the pitman arm, as it does expose it a bit...
 
Can you flip pitman 180 and still steer off passenger knuckle?
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I just flipped the pitman arm to mock up. The astro 2wd steering box is the same as the xj just revered pitman and reversed steering inside. (insert proper term lol)



Couple pics I found with astro van box in a TJ. Should make for a pretty good stretch in the front.


 
Ohhh man yes protection needed.
Dirt life on yout5has a good Video on locating he uses lazers then snaps a grid on the floor to refrence off of

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Seeeing your badass steering I gota say id be tempted to run full hydro street and all

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That would be awesome and make life easier...but here in MO to get inspection I cannot.

Also already bought all my assisted steering and steering stuff. I have just about everything to get this all done, just not all the knowledge lol. Learning as I go mostly on the technical stuff. Having some fun and hopefully help my boys in the future when they wanna weld some good junk together :)



Got a lead on an astro box to pick up tomorrow. Ill get it slapped in and report back. I think id rather stretch it big than fight a tight fit on everything!
 
I agree strech that thing but what are you going to do about upper coil spring?

This is why im pushing foa coilovers on you. So so much easier to package and will be so much better with dual rate springs and Real valving compared to the over the counter cookie cutter stuff.

No inspections in my town I forget in the real world others have to.

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Well I dont exactly know:)Maybe Pie cut the upper "bucket" to give it some angle?
Maybe cut the old mount out, fill it in and make something like this?
(I realize what this is, just an example of basic coil bucket)







Small progress. I did get the astro box with the flat pitman arm.

Got the it drilled and tapped and the diy4x cap on the end for the assisted steer ram.
Would really like to get some links under this thing already!
 
You and me both Evan03:)



Astro box is in,I think its gonna be great? Does stick out a little. Unknowingly made the shape of the bumper just right.




More room for activities now. Can put the track bar all the way to the steering gear bolts. I dont know exactly how to measure the stretch amount, but the center of the bumpstop tube at the bottom is 5" apart from center on coil retainer hump on axle. Could go a little more.




Like Evan03 said, coil buckets are way off. I wouldn't do this until the links are all in, but here is my rough idea on the upper coil bucket. I have some 3/8 plate I can make them out of. I probably wouldn't go that thick, but there wont be much support above. Later down the road I hope to run DOM tube the from 2x6 rocker to bumper so maybe I can stick some support above the mount when that time comes.


As far as shocks go: When I cut the old coil "hump" out, ill plate the hole and put a shock mount there. What does everyone think? I know its not coilovers, but Ive got more time and material than more money to put in at this moment. Im open to any suggestions or ideas. Thanks NAXJA
 
Not much time available today, but I got the ball joints in the steering knuckles. Got the tie rod figured out. Astro box pitman drilled out to 3/4".





Looks like im gonna have 3 to 4" of uptravel.

6-7 deg positive caster with diff pointed at transfer case at ride height


Lower links measure out at 38" and it looks like the upper link will be about 44"
Wasn't expecting upper link to be that much longer, will this be a problem for my situation?

 
That bad huh? lol.

Got the links tacked up and put them in. Here is a shot of the upper thru the floor, obviously will need a "tunnel". Had to do the floor anyway.




Dang lower links hit the "frame".




I like where everything is so I notched the frame and will plate it back in.

Upper link super flat and really liking the tucked lower links!

 
Heres my coil bucket idea, not exactly in the right place but you get the idea. Has a bend in it, with the little extra piece for the track bar mount to attach to as well.





Im just mimicking the factory set up. If any of you guys have tips or better idea, please let me know.

 
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