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Best upgrades you've done?

JohnX said:
I guess I've never experienced the front shaft vibration issue...my angles are always correct and I keep good joints in my shaft.

As for the bearings....unit bearing don't need any servicing in my experience, which is even better.
Click to expand...

If no vibration, then you end up with almost zero caster on a stock D30. So, it's either this, or cut/turn, to get it back. Once you've driven a car with over 5* of caster both on the street, and at speed offroad, you won't want to go back. That rock-solid "Autobahn" feeling German cars all have? A lot of it is just caster.

I don't know if it's worth $1000 or whatever, but it definitely has benefits.
 
chris420 said:
Warn Hub Spin Free kit it would be perfect if you are using it for the street a lot. After that Currie Rock Jock steering then JKS unibody front reinforcement kit.
Click to expand...

Besides being junk, that kit costs more than most xj's on here!!!
 
I don't see were you can do any fabrication, but with some simple tools if you decide to take it off-roading I would recommend the "cut-n-fold" to save body damage.
 
If you haven’t put sliders on yet, cut the rocker to the door sill and use some 1-3/4 x .188 wall DOM as your sliders. Made a huge difference on my stocker.

My suggestions: gas tank skid, zj tie rod, some sort of front bumper for recovery, steering box strengthening, box the upper and lower control arm mounts on the front axle, sye to get rid of the slip in the t-case in the event your take out a driveshaft, slider mod above, sway bar delete or discos, t-case linkage, diff covers, tnt cross member/t-case skid, 297 shafts (or alloys).

Hope you still have the MJ?
 
I was reminded in another post that the hood support kits are a super plus!
 
Just wanted to update this thread on some of my decisions.

Already done...
Trans mount
Stinkyfab crossmember/case skid (really happy with it!)
Motor mounts (staying stock for now, but new)
Broadview mirror
Chinesium trackbar (had to make it drivable)
Stolen steering dampener from dodge 2500(again...drivable)
New wiper blades all around
Rear bump stops
Floor mats
Air filter


In progress (parts ordered or being prepped)
Front lunchbox
WJ drilled/ slotted brakes (used stinkyfab drill guide today)
Stinky fab wj bearing spacers
Using new stock xj Timken bearing
New ball joints
New stock WJ calipers
Braided steel hoses, longer
Yukon 4340 shafts
Repurposing some old LCAs (thick steel with Johnny joint, no idea what brand)
New UCA bushings and UCA reinforcement
Wheel spacers 4.5 to 5" pattern(duh, stock take off 32s coming soon)
3"RE springs
Front bumpstops
Rear bastard packs S10/XJ hybrid
Shackles if I need another inch (insert jokes here)
Late model mirrors
Cupholder
Window crank handles
Better horn
Steering box braces
New metal one piece steering gear spacer


In the immediate plans...
Ford 8.8 rear (that d35 won't like me)
Stock wrangler wheels and tires
Fabbed steering links (still debating 1 ton vs WJ ends)
Shocks (most likely bilstein reservoirs)


Future plans...
Integrated sliders (loved them on the last xj I did)
Better tank skid
Front bumper
Roof rack/ top hat style integrated to stock mounting points plus additional mounts
Rear bumper is a maybe
Raptor paint in factory red.
 
You can use a WJ Hub bearing to get 5 on 5 for the front, without a spacer. I like my 1 -tons. I did have to use the offset GM TREs on one of my setups. The WJ steering is a bit weak. I heard of some breaking after wheeling. So, I went with Ruff Stuffs kit. Also, didn't like to put in a splice to the WJ's tube.
 
75SV1 said:
You can use a WJ Hub bearing to get 5 on 5 for the front, without a spacer.
Click to expand...

You have to run a spacer if you want to run u-joints!
 
On a side note, it is reported that the Dodge Nitro rotors (5×4-3/4) will work with WJ calipers. I haven't tried this but I need to as I'm due for some new rotors.
 
RCP Phx said:
On a side note, it is reported that the Dodge Nitro rotors (5×4-3/4) will work with WJ calipers. I haven't tried this but I need to as I'm due for some new rotors.
Click to expand...

2007-2008 Nitro or Liberty rotors. I have run them for about 4-5 years. The pads just covers the rotors.
 
75SV1 said:
You can use a WJ Hub bearing to get 5 on 5 for the front, without a spacer. I like my 1 -tons. I did have to use the offset GM TREs on one of my setups. The WJ steering is a bit weak. I heard of some breaking after wheeling. So, I went with Ruff Stuffs kit. Also, didn't like to put in a splice to the WJ's tube.
Click to expand...

Yes, but the offset on the wheels would be wrong, and I'd still have to redrill the rear to match. Adding the spacers solves the offset issue at the same time is what I figured.

Good to know on the nitro rotors, already drilled some wjs but I'll try to remember when it's time for a new set in 10 years.

As to the wj steering...stock is a no no. I intended to run stock ends with beefier fabbed tubes, but I was unable to find anyone who sells 24x1.5 weld-in inserts....so it looks like I'll have to go 1 ton.
 
JohnX said:
Yes, but the offset on the wheels would be wrong, and I'd still have to redrill the rear to match. Adding the spacers solves the offset issue at the same time is what I figured.

Good to know on the nitro rotors, already drilled some wjs but I'll try to remember when it's time for a new set in 10 years.

As to the wj steering...stock is a no no. I intended to run stock ends with beefier fabbed tubes, but I was unable to find anyone who sells 24x1.5 weld-in inserts....so it looks like I'll have to go 1 ton.
Click to expand...

I used WJ rims. Then used 4.5 to 5 adapter spacers on the Rear with a Ford 8.8. So, it would depend on Rims and tires. I did buy some forming taps for the 24-1.5 threads. Really an odd ball for TREs. So, I went with 1-ton steering.
 
24 x 1.5 RH taps are easy to come by, it's the LH tap that's takes some searching for, but they are available!
 
75SV1 said:
I used WJ rims. Then used 4.5 to 5 adapter spacers on the Rear with a Ford 8.8. So, it would depend on Rims and tires. I did buy some forming taps for the 24-1.5 threads. Really an odd ball for TREs. So, I went with 1-ton steering.
Click to expand...

So only a spacer on the rear...doesn't it look funny with the rear wider? Regardless...definitely don't want different patterns front and back, just a hassle. Already have that issue on my drag car.
 
JohnX said:
So only a spacer on the rear...doesn't it look funny with the rear wider? Regardless...definitely don't want different patterns front and back, just a hassle. Already have that issue on my drag car.
Click to expand...

I am using a Ford 8.8. So, I needed to make up .750 width both sides. So, with a 1.5 spacer, I was out or are out 3/4 per side. Didn't look bad to me. I did 'upgrade' to the Yukon axle kit on one of my XJs recently.
 
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