Battery Cables

[Talyn]

I made my own using marine grade battery cable. Got most of my parts from here: http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine Grade Wire/Marine Battery Cable/. Tinned copper lugs, heat shrink tubing, and wire. The military style battery terminals came from Napa.

 

[FlexdXJ]

I made my own using marine grade battery cable. Got most of my parts from here: http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine Grade Wire/Marine Battery Cable/. Tinned copper lugs, heat shrink tubing, and wire. The military style battery terminals came from Napa.

I could do it but my worry is not getting the ends crimped good enough on that large of a cable.

 

[max419]

i built my own with 2 gauge soldered with a torch and crimped with a 7$ crimper you use a BFH on. worked grest. i think i got my wire for 1.80$/ft. red and black. lugs were cheap and put an anl fuse on the alt output that i got on ebay for 10$.
Really easy to put together yourself, or 5-90's kits are a great way to just get it done, he builds a high quality product. obviously from his fan list on here.

 

[tcpoland]

Thanks for all the input guys, I ordered the kit from 5-90. Should be here in a few days or so. Im going to use the waiting time to clean up under my hood, treat the few rust spots Ive found and track down my coolant leak.

 

[Veeb0rg]

anyone happen to know the lenghts of the wire needed?

 

[CharlesS]

anyone happen to know the lenghts of the wire needed?

When I built my battery cables many years ago.... I just measured the factory cable lengths....

I used polarity colored 2 gauge fine stranded cable for the main cables and 4 gauge fine stranded for the battery to PDC and PDC to alternator along with a 136A alternator and 150A marine 36V mini bus fuse across newly fabricated stud and existing stud on the PDC.
Used copper tinned fusion connectors for all cable ends along with sealed shrink tubing....

Built two sets to ensure I have a replacement set for the future...

 

[tcpoland]

Just wanted to say I got the cables from 5-90, definitely quality stuff. He provided instructions and answered all of my questions promptly and had the cables made and shipped very quickly. I could not be happier with the outcome of this project, not to mention that I was able to replace quite a bit of the electrical gear since I saved the money of buying the $182 chrysler part.

 

[jgalan]

It sounds like 5-90 is the way to go for the battery cables. My battery cables were over-corroded as well, since I was already making other purchases at Napa Autoparts, I figured I would ask them about my problem.

The only solution they had was a "Chrysler & Universal Import Cable Harness." All I needed to do was cut off the corroded section from the cables and clamp it on. It seems to work fine and it only cost me $22. I didn't have to replace my negative cable. It also comes with a little box that covers the clamp section so there are not just exposed.

 

[Bleckers3]

I just re did my cables. Have 2ga marine cable with tinned and crimped ends for block ground and to starter. I used 4ga marine tinned and crimped for body ground and to powerblock. Eventually I'll add 4 gauge from a 136alt with a maxi fuze. I also used marine wing nut terminals. Now everything is clean, rust free and sturdy. I figured if the cables were good enough for my Formula 280 SS, they would be good enough for a 98 xj..

 

[PRYAPSM]

I did mine over labor day weekend. Bought my wires from 5-90! The set was $156.00 came with all new 4awg wire, new battery terminals and a 150amp ANL.

 

[hadfield4wd]

I made my own. I bought some stuff from 5-90 to complete it.

Well many people know that the charging/electrical system on the XJ is subpar at best. When you add things like a winch it is really lacking. With the headlights, AC, radio and CB on I was down around 10 volts. The first time I kicked the winch on the Jeep stalled. I knew it was time to fix this. I got my info from here:

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/

Jon is very knowledgable and ready to help. I made all my own wires out of #1 welding wire. It is braided and makes for easier bending. All of my ends are soldered, crimped and have heat shrink. I tested my first one by putting a hook in either end and used it as a pull-up bar. It held so I think the connections are fine.

I replaced/added the following wires:

• Battery Positive to Starter
• Battery Positive to the distribution block
• Alternator output to battery positive (stock has this connected to the distribution block I skipped that and went right to the battery – ANL Isolates the alternator from the rest of system should it surge, when you bypass the distribution block it bypasses the factory protection mine is 150A because my new alternator is a 140A) [Added parts]
• Battery Negative to engine block
• Battery Negative to fenderwell [Added]
• Battery Negative to alternator case (Case bonding) [Added]
• Engine block to firewall

With the stock alternator I lose very little voltage with everything on. Maintains around 13 and I don’t have to rev the engine in order to winch. The HO alternator should also help and will be installed shortly.

Anyway here are the pics.

The first 2 are comparisons of old to new. From left to right – New wire, alternator output to distribution block, engine block to battery negative, battery positive to starter, battery positive to distribution block and Engine block to firewall.

Here it is next to my thumb for a size comparison

Here is the battery. You’ll notice I only had black wire so the positive I put red tape on the ends. The one red wire is for the winch.

Here is the 150A ANL fuse.

 

[avnsteve]

I bought a set from 5-90 and was totally amazed at how many things were improved! shorter crank time, smooth idle, you name it

 

[bigdummy30]

was looking at this kit to upgrade my wiring....seems to include everything listed in this thread....any reason this wouldnt work and give me some extra stuff???:greensmok

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-GAUGE-POW...t=Car_Audio_Video&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d2bc3363a

 

[kastein]

that sure is some bling cable... I would just buy boat cable or similar at your local tractor supply or auto parts store, crimp terminals, and brass battery lugs.

 

[bails85]

I just switched my cables out and went with 5-90 setup. What a difference. No hesitation when I turn the key my interior lights seem crisper. And my radio seems a little less static. His customer is awesome as well. I don't know shit about auto wiring and he made it easy for me. by far one of the best money I have spent. Looks good too if you do. A clean install. I believe his web site is kellyswips.com