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Ball joints both sides or one? what brand?

Jeepm@n

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Northern, WI
Advice needed. Ok my 99 has a bad steering knuckle and u-joint on the passenger side. I was going to replace the axle as a whole but after some thought I'd still need to replace the hub bearings and u-joints anyways. So I guess my question is do I need to change the ball joints on the drivers side too being I'm changing the ball joints on the passenger side? I'm changing the steering knuckle, ball joints, hub bearing, and u-joint on the passenger side and was hoping to only change the hub bearing and u-joint on the drivers side.:repair:

Rather have MWC advice than oem tech
 
Do you do everything and get it all fresh, or do you replace only what is broke? Depends on your philosophy on repairs and your budget. Me? I'd replace everything as long as you are in there, then you're done with it.

-Ron
 
Do them both...

Reminds me I need to finish the passenger side since the drivers side is done... Well this weekend should be fun! Thanks for the reminder!! ;)
 
do both sides.....I have used teh cheap ebay ones adn they did not last very long. Go with a known and trusted name like MOOG or something of the like. If you have never replaced ball joints, be prepared to cuss..... a lot. Also remember to put the new joints in the freezer for 24 hours or more before you do the install. This will help with the installation of them. I thought it was BS until I tried it and it actually helped.

Cheese "thank goodness the D60 is Kingpin" Man
 
Also remember to put the new joints in the freezer for 24 hours or more before you do the install. This will help with the installation of them. I thought it was BS until I tried it and it actually helped.

Cheese "thank goodness the D60 is Kingpin" Man

O rly... No one ever told me that... Makes sense tho...

X2 for MOOG
 
<chuckle> Handy little trick, that.

Several years ago, a friend of mine asked me for help in changing the front axle u-joints on his wife's 92 XJ. After looking at it, and discovering that the ABS tone rings had corroded away to almost nothing, I suggested that it might be easier & faster just to replace the shafts, tone rings and u-joints.

Then the tone rings came as a separate item. Says he, "crap. No press. How are you going to get those on?"

Threw the tone rings in the oven for 20 minutes at 250 degrees, and the outer shafts in the freezer. Pulled both out, dropped the tone ring on the shaft, and heard it go "<tink>". They haven't moved since.

As far as the press goes, get the biggest one with the Dana adapters. The surfaces are not square and parallel.
 
As far as the press goes, get the biggest one with the Dana adapters. The surfaces are not square and parallel.

Good tip! I had a press that only had parallel adapters... IT worked, but is sure was scary....
 
I have a cheap ball joint tool that works wonders. I can't remember if I bought it at hf, or at a tool sale, but the few times i had to use it it's been a lifesaver

Agree, do both. Easier to do it when you've got the tools/garage then on the trail.
 
As a bit of a side note, for anybody who's around south eastern MN, I've got both the press, and the Dana adapters. We can do balljoints in the driveway in pretty short order.
 
Jeff, depending on work, I may stop over sometime to do pass side... (dirver side done a month ago)
 
Make sure you contact me in advance, I have a bunch of weekend work between now and the end of the year.
 
I do normally live by the theory if you are in there replace it ahead of time. Looks like I'm doing both sides when I get the extra cash together by the other side. For now it sits parked. Till I get the steering knuckle and parts. Only have about $150 for the repair right now.
Thanks for the freezer and oven ideas along with the need for a press. Does the HF one last? I know that using one of these to crank a bit then use bfh on the threaded area and then crank some more to get them to break loose. Figured the HF press could also be used for u-joints being I have all of them to replace.
 
You can strip out the jack screw threads on these.

One trick to get them to pop loose (this works for TREs, etc. as well,) is to get some tension on the balljoint, then smack the side of the casting that's holding the balljoint at 90 degrees with a light sledge hammer. This helps to break it loose.
 
I have used my hf tool a half a dozen times with great results. It's not a precision tool so hf quality is fine for this. If I did it for a living I'm sure I'd buy better.
 
You can strip out the jack screw threads on these.

One trick to get them to pop loose (this works for TREs, etc. as well,) is to get some tension on the balljoint, then smack the side of the casting that's holding the balljoint at 90 degrees with a light sledge hammer. This helps to break it loose.

this.

and heat

a little heat into the casting while you've got it tensioned up in the press and they pop right out.
 
One thing to remember is if you're heating the casting, have tension on the ball-joint, and hitting it with a light sledge, BE CAREFUL!

I had my upper Balljoint literally explode! I still haven't found a couple of the pieces in the garage I used...
 
I did all 4 balljoints (at Notorious DUG's house, Chewbacca showed up as well,) without air tools in under 4 hours. Alcohol was involved.
 
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