Backyard Customs XJ Build

[pyrotyro]

Looks like the axle is mounted too far to the rear.Do you plan to bumpstop the hell outa it?

i was waiting for somebody to say that!!! :laugh3:

:conceited

 

[mscans]

damn man, wish youw ould have called me. i guess you're not building a frame?

 

[asp]

if he's welding in new leaf mounts and stuff, i doubt he's afraid of chopping up the body a little... give it time guys

 

[jbjustin33415]

it should be done in about 2 weeks or so. there will be stuff that goes from each hanger to tie them all together, not really sure on how we are going to do it yet. we want to get all the leafs mounted and on tires then worry about how we will tie each hanger to each other.

when i get home from work, ill post up some pictures of what we got done on sunday. front leaf springs mocked up and a little body trimming.

mike, you said you were gonna call and maybe come over friday, you never called or showed up.....

 

[jbjustin33415]

sunday we accomplished removing the front axle and making some leaf boxes then mocked up the leafs.

removing the front axle

configuring up some jack stands for the front

cutting up some box tubing for the leaf boxes

mocking up the location of the boxes(not sure what i was talking about :dunno

front leaf springs mocked up

close up of the leaf boxes

we stopped there because im waiting for the shackles to come in the mail...but i did some minor trimming on the fender in the rear, still need to do more though.

ill keep you guys posted.

 

[XJfire75]

Cute shorts....

That a 220 welder?

 

[jbjustin33415]

haha, those are my "work" shorts.

yeah its a 220v hobart 187

 

[cgmrdc]

wish i could be working on my rig in shorts... or even outside!

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

same its like 17* here (Ohio)

 

[jbjustin33415]

still waiting for some seals to come in so i can put the front axle together and mount the tires. the housing is under the jeep though, definitely need to put some shims in the front for my pinion angle.

once i get the tires on i can figure out how to do the steering. i would like some opinions on what kind of steering you guys would use though.

when i get home from work today i will post some pics of the progress and what the angles look like.

 

[whitneyj]

please don't put shims in the front. . .

 

[jbjustin33415]

why no shims?

i couldnt get any pictures like i said i would. it was raining pretty good when i got home and i didnt want to get wet.

 

[mscans]

the shims are real small, they aren't like blocks or anything, i cant see them causing any axle wrap issues, please tell us whitney, sup with the shims?

his axle has cast in leaf spring mounts, so he cant just rotate the axle and weld the mounts in place where they need to be, if thats what you were implying.

curious on your reasoning, please respond.

 

[asp]

i don't know specifics about the axle, but is it cast steel or cast iron? obviously you wouldn't want to weld to the iron, but if it's cast steel, why not cut them off? just food for thought..

 

[whitneyj]

the shims are real small, they aren't like blocks or anything, i cant see them causing any axle wrap issues, please tell us whitney, sup with the shims?

his axle has cast in leaf spring mounts, so he cant just rotate the axle and weld the mounts in place where they need to be, if thats what you were implying.

curious on your reasoning, please respond.

Sorry it took me so long to respond. Axle wrap isn't the issue, it has more to do with the constant twisting motion the front springs are subject too. It's the same concept as why blocks aren't used in the front for lift: There's to much chance of it slipping out or getting shot out for that matter. You'll hear of a lift block in the rear slipping out once in a great while, but never a shim. But the rear doesn't steer so there's no side load on it like the front. I'd cut and rotate the inner C's before I'd ever shim the front. Cutting and turning the inner C's isn't half as difficult as some people make it out to be, you just need a cut off wheel, an angle finder, and a 220V welder. With what you guys have done already, you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[jbjustin33415]

Sorry it took me so long to respond. Axle wrap isn't the issue, it has more to do with the constant twisting motion the front springs are subject too. It's the same concept as why blocks aren't used in the front for lift: There's to much chance of it slipping out or getting shot out for that matter. You'll hear of a lift block in the rear slipping out once in a great while, but never a shim. But the rear doesn't steer so there's no side load on it like the front. I'd cut and rotate the inner C's before I'd ever shim the front. Cutting and turning the inner C's isn't half as difficult as some people make it out to be, you just need a cut off wheel, an angle finder, and a 220V welder. With what you guys have done already, you shouldn't have a problem.

the inner C's is not the problem. my pinion angle is the problem. the dana 44 i am using has cast spring perch on the passenger side, but the the driver side has a welded on perch. i still dont know exactly what i am going to do, i need to get some tires on the front axle and see where it sits, still waiting for parts from 4 wheel parts(sometimes i hate dealing with them, but i get a discount because we do their towing ) the store manager said my parts would be there tomorrow so well see what happens this weekend....

 

[whitneyj]

the inner C's is not the problem. my pinion angle is the problem. the dana 44 i am using has cast spring perch on the passenger side, but the the driver side has a welded on perch. i still dont know exactly what i am going to do, i need to get some tires on the front axle and see where it sits, still waiting for parts from 4 wheel parts(sometimes i hate dealing with them, but i get a discount because we do their towing ) the store manager said my parts would be there tomorrow so well see what happens this weekend....

Ah! I'm sorry, I missed the cast spring perch! Check where the plug welds are, your tube should be pressed all the way to the diff. You can just cut the spring perch off and make one and burn it in. The cast spring perch wouldn't provide enough material for the tube to be just pressed into that, so you should see plugs welds on the front and rear of the diff below and to the inside of the perch .

 

[jbjustin33415]

Ah! I'm sorry, I missed the cast spring perch! Check where the plug welds are, your tube should be pressed all the way to the diff. You can just cut the spring perch off and make one and burn it in. The cast spring perch wouldn't provide enough material for the tube to be just pressed into that, so you should see plugs welds on the front and rear of the diff below and to the inside of the perch .

cant do that either. if i cut the spring perch from the housing then i would have to cut off the plug weld also. the way the spring plate bolts in is using a U-bolt on the outside and on the inside it uses studs. here is a picture from this webpage with where the plug welds are at. (the closest one)
http://www.jpmagazine.com/projectbuild/154_0807_1968_jeep_j2000_dana_44_install/photo_06.html
mine is the same except for having a disconnect on the long side.

 

[whitneyj]

Ahh. . . I see. . . I guess just weld the shims to the housing then. . . I don't see what else you could do. . . I supposed as long as it's welded the housing, it won't go anywhere despite the side loading. Break out the nickel rod!

 

[mscans]

yeah, jb, pick up some nickle rod, i'll come over satuday with my 220 arc welder, we'll weld those bastards down there and get'r done.

did you put the axle back together this week?