5.3 Vortec California Legal Swap

[onetallmj]

To bring this back from a couple of months ago:

I am trying to do a similar swap. How did it go with the smog inspection?

Did you use your original gas tank and pump?

 

[PhotoJared]

You can't use a stock XJ pump as it doesn't flow enough. At least in my 99. Not sure about earlier models.

 

[onetallmj]

Yea sorta thought that, wonder how the gas tank vent/evap stuff should be to pass the inspection?

 

[gradon]

I was able to buy a Walbro 255lph pump that replaced my stock '96 pump.

 

[PhotoJared]

I was able to buy a Walbro 255lph pump that replaced my stock '96 pump.

Did you replace the regulator???

 

[gradon]

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/220525315878

 

[yossarian19]

Yea sorta thought that, wonder how the gas tank vent/evap stuff should be to pass the inspection?

in CA, the letter of the law calls for the same sensors & valves as factory equipped for the engine. You might get a Ref who lets it slide as long as the monitors and codes are checked and unset, you might not, I wouldn't count on it.

 

[clydefrog]

Yea sorta thought that, wonder how the gas tank vent/evap stuff should be to pass the inspection?

I drilled a hole in the tank and installed the GM sensor. See pics below.

You can't use a stock XJ pump as it doesn't flow enough. At least in my 99. Not sure about earlier models.

You need about 60 psi for the VORTEC at WOT 5,500rpms. I used my stock pump which puts out almost 70psi, from an '87 XJ though.


Originally i had the stock tank with 300,000 plus miles on it, even after the swap. Just recently decided to install a new tank, hoses and pump. Note the location of the evap sensor, cant remember the size of the hole i needed to drill. Its glued in with fuel proof adhesive and the duct tape to protect it from chaffing.

Close up of sensor.

Inside of tank (evap sensor).

Also modified the vent with JB weld and copper tubing. Now i can hold 27.1 gallons of fuel! Coupled with ~22mpg (with the 5.3) and two 5 gal gerry cans i have a range of 814 miles! Its hard to keep your foot out of it though when you have that motor in an XJ so my range is prob a bit less...

 

[clydefrog]

Looking forward to more info about the emissions compliance!

Sorry for the crappy pics, the XJ is not on my lift.

Carbon canister mounted just forward of the stock fuel filter. All new dorman parts to match the truck.

Here you can see the vent valve, stock fuel filter and carbon canister. Pretty simple, use the factory steel tube to connect the GM purge solenoid on the motor back to the carbon canister. There is also a hose going from the carbon canister to the vent valve and a hose going from the two factory Jeep rollover valves on top of the tank to the carbon canister (with a shut off valve (everything wired to the factory ECU, wires run parallel with the fuel pump wires).

So three hoses total, one from the carbon canister to the engine purge solenoid. One large one from the carbon canister to the shut vent valve. And one from the carbon canister shut off valve (mounted on the carbon canister) to the fuel tank vent valves on top of the tank.

Another shitty pic of the carbon canister and the bracket i made.

Hood scoop! Wanted to make something to match the Jeep XJ hood lines and body. Nothing off the shelf i could find so i fabbed one up out of balsa and covered it in fiberglass.

All glasses up ready for install then bondo.

Installed and bondo'ed up. Did this yesterday, its raining today so i havent sanded or painted it yet. (p/s my whole Jeep is rattle canned if you havent noticed).

Front shot, ready for sanding. Note how it matches the hood lines.

Stock steering shaft was 1/2 inch from the left bank header. Turns out the vulcanized rubber in the stock shaft didn't like that, it melted and developed play. Bought this Borgeson shaft, it was $$$ but well worth it.

Upgrading the brakes. Factory booster on the left (with over 300,000 miles on it). Installing a new booster from a WJ. Had to make a 1/4 spacer and drill out the hole for the peddle bolt but other than that pretty straight forward.

Booster is also from a WJ. The WJ has metric threads. It will be plumbed to a Willwood adjustable proportioning valve which has standard threads to match the Jeep XJ which is standard (will be using adapters mounted on the master). Still waiting on the valve, FedEx lost it.....

 

[clydefrog]

in CA, the letter of the law calls for the same sensors & valves as factory equipped for the engine. You might get a Ref who lets it slide as long as the monitors and codes are checked and unset, you might not, I wouldn't count on it.

You are correct.

PS the inspection took about two hours. They checked EVERYTHING. The cats have to be within two inches of the factory 5.3 location. Even the 4WD function for the GM ECU has to be functional .

 

[PhotoJared]

Thanks for those photos. Do you have any photos or information on how you wired the EVAP system? I have a few questions...

What did you do for the GM fuel level sensor? EVAP requires the fuel level to schedule evap actions.

Did you use a GM charcoal canister or the Jeep one?

 

[clydefrog]

I used the GM canister. I will send your a diagram and PM on the fuel level issue.

 

[onetallmj]

can you pm me also with that info?

thanks

 

[onetallmj]

You are correct.

PS the inspection took about two hours. They checked EVERYTHING. The cats have to be within two inches of the factory 5.3 location. Even the 4WD function for the GM ECU has to be functional .

how did they check that the 4wd function was working?

 

[clydefrog]

how did they check that the 4wd function was working?

Hooked up the scan tool and went into the transmission control and looked at activations while pulling up on the NP231 handle I presume. I wasn't actually present, I had to wait outside. Longest 2 hours ever.......

 

[clydefrog]

Ok here is the diagram. I dug through my file of receipts and couldn't find the one with all the P/N's that you need. I will have to get those. Basically you need:
-Purge solenoid (should come with the motor)
-Charcoal canister
-Vent valve
-Evap leak detection sensor for the tank
ALL of these parts must be sourced from the motor you are putting in. In my case the solenoid came with the motor and I purchased the other three (totaling no more that $180 new, used all Dorman parts). Now these items weren't needed until 2004 (for the 5.3 vortec) and i actually have a 2003 motor in the car, but I wanted to be safe.

Also I have a better diagram in my garage from Alldata, I will try to find it.

Locations of said components. (edit: I hand wrote that the charcoal canister is computer controlled, it isnt. The evap leak detection sensor is what I meant to write).

PS; I should have a video up shortly after the new year. ECU is in New York getting a tune.....you know....cause 350hp wasn't enough.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

dude this is impressive you got it to smog. super rad.

rough estimate on total cost ?

 

[PhotoJared]

Wow thanks so much!

 

[clydefrog]

dude this is impressive you got it to smog. super rad.

rough estimate on total cost ?

I have been wondering this myself. I need to add it up. I basically rebuilt the interior and added some stuff not related to engine swap at the same time so it cost a bit more than a straight engine swap. I would guess maybe $5K to $6K just for the engine swap. I bought a lot of stuff new though and wanted it to look pretty AND be functional. I think total though (engine plus the other non related stuff) is upwards of $10K since I pulled the 4.0 in June. Going to post a total soon.....

Also, if a moderator reads this I sort of morphed this into a total rig build. Can it be moved to the appropriate location (Sierra Chapter or Modified tech)? Thanks. Its not really a street rig, I just posted here because that where a few other builds where.

 

[onetallmj]

Did the engine come from California originally? or where did you get it from?