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1990 XJ Laredo

royta

NAXJA Forum User
White 4-door Laredo
182,000 miles
Power everything except for seats
4.0L
AX-15
NP231
Original D35 had the trac-loc, but 3.07 gears, so new diff is open
D35 non c-clip (out of 1985 XJ)
I couldn't find or afford a D44 at the time of the swap. Swap was New Years of 2000.
D30
3.73's
Factory skid plates everywhere


4.5" Rusty's coils
3" Rusty's leafs
1.5" Rusty's shackles
Rusty's adjustable track bar
Rusty's LCAs


31X10.50-15 BFG MTs


Rancho 9000 shocks
I ordered the shocks after installing the suspension, this way I could get the ideal collapsed and extended length shocks. After many emails between Rancho and Ed Stevens, I settled on p/n RS9255 for the for the front and RS9256 for the rears. I was told by Rancho that these were actually designed for the TJ Rancho Rock Crawler suspension system. This allowed the perfect lengh shock with no BPE's.


Advance Adapters SYE
Tom Woods double-cardan drive shaft


YJ brake lines front and rear.
I wanted to keep everything as close to factory as possible. I'm not a big fan of just bending stuff to make it work. YJ brake lines allow full flex with zero stretch and factory mounting.



All suspension components, t-case/drive line mods, and brake lines were done in 12/1999. Gears and swapped rear end were done a few weeks later over New Years 2000. Corrected speedometer gear was installed sometime in 01/2000.


I picked up the entire factory tow hook setup including all brackets and bolts from a Jeep wrecker yard. I've never needed them, but they're installed and ready for use if necessary. It has a class III tow hitch on the back.


I just replaced the front brakes and rotors on 10/18/2002. In the summer of 2002, I replaced the clutch and internal slave cylinder with a Luk Pro-Gold setup. In the summer of 2002, I converted to an open cooling system with a GDI 3 row radiator. I used a factory t-stat housing and a new heater control valve for a 1992 XJ. I even used the 1992 factory hoses between the heater core and heater control valve AND the heater control valve and thermostat housing. Due to the A/C compressor being in the way of the 1992 tube that screws into the water pump, I was forced to use the 1990 tube, therefore forcing me to use the Goodyear orange/red heater hose between the water pump and heater control valve. I was so close to a factory installation!


2.5" tail pipe with Carsound high flow catalyctic converter installed in 12/2002. I also installed a high flow muffler. Definitely not loud, but just a tad more than stock. Sounds just right.


I purchased the Jeep in 4/98 with 113K miles on it and have been religious about the maintenance.


This Jeep has seen ZERO rock crawling and whatever flexing of the suspension has been minimal. I had big dreams, but no time.

The first picture was taken 6/16/2002. The rest of them were taken 10/19/2003.

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After much inquiring with others, I was told to go for $4500, however, I'll take $4000 OBO. I am in the market for a stock '97 - '99 (possibly even a '00 or '01) XJ Sport (I want the NP231) with around 70K or less miles. So, I am interested in a trade with cash on my part. Renegade at rockcrawler.com / Renegade Jpr here at naxja will vouge for how well put together this XJ is. He's a kid who is as serious about Jeeping as I used to be, when I had time. I'm jealous.

Thanks for looking. You can email me at [email protected].

Roy

XJRoy at rockcrawler.com
royta at jeepsunlimited.com
 
This is a SWEET XJ. Not the biggest meanest thing around, but its defiantly VERY well built. What I mean is that nothing is just "duct taped or zipped tied" together. You can tell just by looking at it how well its maintained, and taken care of, and put together. Everything was done to get as much off-road capatablity without sacrificing any on road performance.
 
btt
 
Renegade Jpr said:
What I mean is that nothing is just "duct taped or zipped tied" together.

Well except for my home made disconnects. I extended the stockers with a nut/coupling and some all-thread. I then used wing nuts for the top part. I replaced the factory bolts on the bottom so once the nut is loosened, I can unthread it by hand. I can remove them in less than five minutes, and at most $5 of material, well, it sure beats $100 on a set of JKS'. Of course you won't find the hardware at your local Home Depot, but that what real fastener stores are for. I guess it's not as cool looking though. :D
 
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