RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Another issue you haven't addressed is your front pinion angle since you have a LP D30!
Also add to your list axle shims because your rotating the pinion up which works for a dye but not for a conventional 2 joint driveshaft.
So you think the stock shocks will work with the 4" lift? If that's the case I will just return them and wait until I can afford a better shock. I thought 5100's are great for driving on the road and not bad off-road either.
What type and size shock would you run with the 4.5 lift? As I said I plan on getting a mid or long-arm kit in the near future. Will that have any effect on the length of shock I should run? I also noticed some guys run diffrent shocks and diffrent sizes for front and back. My shocks and entire suspension is shot. Every time I hear a bump it SLAMS. I'm at the point where the ride is getting so rough I get nauseous if I drive it for too long.
No, the stock shocks won't work. The 4.5 Bilsteins might. Still, you need to get your lifted. Then measure. Also, it depends on shock length if you use Bar Pin Eliminators.
I do use 5100s on the road. A bit firm for my taste. Then again a lot goes into the ride quality. Springs and tires do too.
You guys won't believe this but my dear old friend from Military Academy is willing to sell me a DANA 44 that came off a Camanche.
I believe he mentioned a D35, so that's a problem because he would most likely have ABS.
That would also indicate that he has nv242 which complicates a sye!
You have to make sure that axle has the same gearing as your existing D30 up front, otherwise you're in for a re-gearing.
What axle do you currently have now? If it's the 8.25, then I would recommend saving your money and run the 8.25. You're not gaining much over the D44. IMO, that D44 axle belongs in a Comanche.
If you have a D35, then knock yourself out. However, I would get a junkyard 8.25 and bolt that right in.
Yes, I run both the D44 and the 8.25 axles on my Cherokees, and I would take the 8.25 any day over the D44. People OOH and AAH about the D44, but I see very little difference over the 8.25. The axle tubes are bigger, the housing is more substantial, and the gears are easier to set up on the 8.25.
If I'm doing an axle swap to get rid of a D35, then I'm getting an 8.25 all day long and bolt that thing right in. If I really wanted disc brakes, then I would do the KJ disc swap on the 8.25.
Or as a second option I would do a Ford 8.8 swap. You get disc brakes, but have to get the parking brake cable adapters, and weld in new spring perches, and possibly do re-gearing if the gearing doesn't match stock.
If you have the 8.25, keep that. And if you don't, go get one out of a junkyard.
Did I also mention that D44 belongs in a Comanche?
Pull the ABS relays and fuses and 1997-2001 ABS is disabled. The brakes will work normally, and the ABS hardware can remain in place.
I did a Hack-n-Tap on my nv242. There is a kit for an SYE, but its about $500. The price of the HnT has gone up a bit, plus factor in the jig and tools.
I can't reply directly to what shocks to use. I have run the Bilstein 1500s, KYB Silvers, KYB Monmax, Ranchero RS200s, and Ranchero RS900s. The 1500s and Monomax are a bit stiff. The RS 200s barley better than stock. I did like the KYB Silvers, that were on a stock XJ. The RS900 at mid adjustment firmed up the rear with the Monomax fronts.
Some that might work for you, Blistein 1525's, Rancho RS500 and RS700, The Dotech-Tech and possibly the KYB G3's. I did run G3s in a Neon. I liked them. Firm but not stiff.
As for axles, I do run Ford 8.8s. More they have gears that match the builds I did at the time. 3.73 and 4.10 gear ratios. I do have roughly 32's on a 4.5 lift with 4.10's. A bit slow, but OK on flats. Wheeled OK. Also, there are write ups to modify it for use with ABS. I did like the ABS on my stock '98. Or at least it worked for me.
I don't think the 8.25 is a direct fit to the 01 CA emissions jeep.
Is there a detailed thread, video, or article ?